Rust inside bolt heads
#1
I am getting rust on many of the allen-head bolts on my bike (seatpost binder bolt, stem bolts, chainring bolts). Apparently, these things aren't made of stainless steel? But other parts of the same bolt are not rusting. Is there some coating put on the bolts that gets worn off from the allen wrench? I'm able to get the rust off with Brillo pads, but it always comes back after it gets wet.
Does anyone have any recommendations for this? It really ruins the otherwise beautiful apperarance of my bike. Any good sources of true stainless steel bolts? Or while I'm at it I guess I could get titanium.
Does anyone have any recommendations for this? It really ruins the otherwise beautiful apperarance of my bike. Any good sources of true stainless steel bolts? Or while I'm at it I guess I could get titanium.
#2
DEADBEEF

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,234
Likes: 10
From: Catching his breath alongside a road near Seattle, WA USA
Bikes: 1999 K2 OzM, 2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
The surface rust is really not much to worry about. If you're really worried about the unsightly appearance, just get a bottle of Phil's Tenacious Oil which is more viscous than slug-snot and using a Q-tip dab some in, on and around the bolt head. That should keep it from rusting.
__________________
1999 K2 OzM
2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
1999 K2 OzM
2001 Aegis Aro Svelte"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
Stainless steel M5 allen bolts are available at any good hardware store.
You can protect non stainless bolt heads with a coating of wax. This picks up less dirt than oil or grease. The threads should be greased to prevent binding.
You can protect non stainless bolt heads with a coating of wax. This picks up less dirt than oil or grease. The threads should be greased to prevent binding.
#4
DEADBEEF

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,234
Likes: 10
From: Catching his breath alongside a road near Seattle, WA USA
Bikes: 1999 K2 OzM, 2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
Yeah. Wax works well. A spray-on furniture wax-polish will work for that. Another option is to get a spraycan of clearcoat from the local hardware or auto-supply store.
__________________
1999 K2 OzM
2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
1999 K2 OzM
2001 Aegis Aro Svelte"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
#6
I live by the ocean, I have five bikes and I hate rust. I get stainless fasteners from Bolt Depot. Toronto Cycles is my favorite source for titanium. Stainless is not expensive at all. Titanium is very expensive and probably not worth it just to save a few grams.
I oil all of the original fasteners and store them in zip lock bags.
I polish all the fasteners on a cotton wheel with rouge before I install them.
Yes, I've been accused of being anal retentive.
I oil all of the original fasteners and store them in zip lock bags.
I polish all the fasteners on a cotton wheel with rouge before I install them.
Yes, I've been accused of being anal retentive.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,063
Likes: 1
From: Toronto
For regular bolts, pretty much any lubricant will inhibit rust. Once the bolts are already rusted though, your ride will look decidedly older (dare I say, ghetto?).
Back when my bike was new enough that I cared about such things, I would sometimes dip a Q-tip in silver paint and dabbed it in all the rusty bolt holes. It flakes off eventually, but it tends to stick more in the corner where the nice orange oxidation was, and was probably the fastest possible way to fix (well, conceal) the problem.
Back when my bike was new enough that I cared about such things, I would sometimes dip a Q-tip in silver paint and dabbed it in all the rusty bolt holes. It flakes off eventually, but it tends to stick more in the corner where the nice orange oxidation was, and was probably the fastest possible way to fix (well, conceal) the problem.
#8
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 1
From: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
I live by the ocean, I have five bikes and I hate rust. I get stainless fasteners from Bolt Depot. Toronto Cycles is my favorite source for titanium. Stainless is not expensive at all. Titanium is very expensive and probably not worth it just to save a few grams.
I oil all of the original fasteners and store them in zip lock bags.
I polish all the fasteners on a cotton wheel with rouge before I install them.
Yes, I've been accused of being anal retentive.
I oil all of the original fasteners and store them in zip lock bags.
I polish all the fasteners on a cotton wheel with rouge before I install them.
Yes, I've been accused of being anal retentive.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
Bikes: Specialized AWOL, Soma Juice
Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
I polish all the fasteners on a cotton wheel with rouge before I install them.
Yes, I've been accused of being anal retentive.
Yes, I've been accused of being anal retentive.
#10
Originally Posted by alcahueteria
rouge? what does that do for them?
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,262
Likes: 92
From: SW Ohio
Bikes: Classic lugged-steel road, touring, gravel
I've killed rust in allen head bolts by taking them to work and putting a mild acid solution in the head. After the rust is all out I then spray the heads with clearcoat. That seems to work. You can also probably use Naval Jelly in the heads.
#13
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 1
From: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
I put silicone grease in bolt heads. It forms a clear jello-like coating which not only protects the bolt, but also makes it a pain in the arse for a thief to get an allen wrench in there. With a pair of tweezers, it's easy to yank the silicone out of the bolt head when you need to work on it...
#14
DEADBEEF

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,234
Likes: 10
From: Catching his breath alongside a road near Seattle, WA USA
Bikes: 1999 K2 OzM, 2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
Originally Posted by moxfyre
I put silicone grease in bolt heads. It forms a clear jello-like coating which not only protects the bolt, but also makes it a pain in the arse for a thief to get an allen wrench in there. With a pair of tweezers, it's easy to yank the silicone out of the bolt head when you need to work on it...
__________________
1999 K2 OzM
2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
1999 K2 OzM
2001 Aegis Aro Svelte"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
#15
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 1
From: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Originally Posted by khuon
So you're a proponant of silicon implants? 

#16
Originally Posted by khuon
The surface rust is really not much to worry about. If you're really worried about the unsightly appearance, just get a bottle of Phil's Tenacious Oil which is more viscous than slug-snot and using a Q-tip dab some in, on and around the bolt head. That should keep it from rusting.
#18
Originally Posted by moxfyre
I put silicone grease in bolt heads. It forms a clear jello-like coating which not only protects the bolt, but also makes it a pain in the arse for a thief to get an allen wrench in there. With a pair of tweezers, it's easy to yank the silicone out of the bolt head when you need to work on it...
#19
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 467
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From: Middle of Montana
Bikes: 1996 Specialized Stumpjumper
I CANNOT STAND RUSTY BOLTS!!!!!!!!!!!
There I said it. I find that the stainless you get at the local hardware stores do not hold up that great. I don't know why, they just don't.
I am thinking about going to titanium-not because of the weight thing-but because they don't rust.
D
There I said it. I find that the stainless you get at the local hardware stores do not hold up that great. I don't know why, they just don't.
I am thinking about going to titanium-not because of the weight thing-but because they don't rust.
D
#20
DEADBEEF

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,234
Likes: 10
From: Catching his breath alongside a road near Seattle, WA USA
Bikes: 1999 K2 OzM, 2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
Just remember that ti bolts bring with them their own set of issues. Be sure to invest in some ti-prep.
__________________
1999 K2 OzM
2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
1999 K2 OzM
2001 Aegis Aro Svelte"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
#21
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 1
From: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Originally Posted by cascade168
Great point! But, I believe you are talking about silicone gasket compound (aka gorilla snot), and not silicone grease. Silicone grease does not harden like RTV. It's important to get some grease under the bolt heads - not just on the threads. This plays a very important part in torqueing things properly, if you are into that.
#24
BIKE MECHANIC
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, Ohio
Bikes: 1975 Full Campy N.R. Centurian Super Lemans,1984 Focus Vintage pre susp. mountain, hardtail,suntour xc sport, many treks, diamondbacks, and, 1950' crusier J.C.Higgins,triex (road) and kakakura silk (road)
FIRST OF ALL DON'T GET YOUR BIKE WET.
REMEMBER THAT RUST IS ALIVE, GROWING AND SPREADING.
YOU HAVE TO KILL THE RUST.
USE FINE STEEL WOOL ROLLED INTO A POINT, USE A MICRO OILER, AND SOME 30 WEIGHT,QUAKER STATE, WORK THE RUST OUT OF THE HEX ,
THEN TAKE A PAPER TOWEL AND REMOVE ALL THE OIL AND STEEL WOOL RUST DUST.
NEXT, AFTER DRYING , APPLY CANDLE WAX TO THE HEX, AND WORK IT IN WITH AN ALLEN WRENCH.
tHE BOLT HEX OPENING IS NOW FULLY SEALED FROM ALL OXIDATION.
REMEMBER THAT RUST IS ALIVE, GROWING AND SPREADING.
YOU HAVE TO KILL THE RUST.
USE FINE STEEL WOOL ROLLED INTO A POINT, USE A MICRO OILER, AND SOME 30 WEIGHT,QUAKER STATE, WORK THE RUST OUT OF THE HEX ,
THEN TAKE A PAPER TOWEL AND REMOVE ALL THE OIL AND STEEL WOOL RUST DUST.
NEXT, AFTER DRYING , APPLY CANDLE WAX TO THE HEX, AND WORK IT IN WITH AN ALLEN WRENCH.
tHE BOLT HEX OPENING IS NOW FULLY SEALED FROM ALL OXIDATION.
#25
KK that is good advice, but seeing that you're in Japan also, you should know that my bike is going to get wet unless I don't ride half the year.
Are you AF? I work in Yokosuka at the Navy base.
Are you AF? I work in Yokosuka at the Navy base.




