Shimano 5701 triple rear shifting
#1
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Shimano 5701 triple rear shifting
Hello,
I have a tandem that uses a 52-39-30 triple crank and 11-32 casstte. The drivetrain is all 10 speed 105. I cannot get the rear derailleur to shift as well as i would like to.
In particular, the shifts between the three smallest cogs are pretty mushy. Looking at the derailleur, it appears that the top pully is far away vertically from the cassette when the derailleur is on the outboard end of its range.
My thought is that the distance between the derailleur and cogs is decreasing the chain angle when shifting and making the shifting unreliable. I have the b screw out as far as it can go. I've also taken the cable and housing apart and verified that it's not sticking. Is there anything else I can try?
Thanks!
Daniel
I have a tandem that uses a 52-39-30 triple crank and 11-32 casstte. The drivetrain is all 10 speed 105. I cannot get the rear derailleur to shift as well as i would like to.
In particular, the shifts between the three smallest cogs are pretty mushy. Looking at the derailleur, it appears that the top pully is far away vertically from the cassette when the derailleur is on the outboard end of its range.
My thought is that the distance between the derailleur and cogs is decreasing the chain angle when shifting and making the shifting unreliable. I have the b screw out as far as it can go. I've also taken the cable and housing apart and verified that it's not sticking. Is there anything else I can try?
Thanks!
Daniel
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How many miles are on the chain? Sometimes worn chains, especially if they've been ridden in a cross chain position a lot, will hesitate when the distance from guide pulley to cog is large.
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Pull off the RD and give it a good cleaning, particularly in the swing areas. Lube the pivot points and make sure nothing is keeping the derailleur body from moving through it's entire arc of motion. Check also to see that the spring is clear, clean, and snappy.
Then reinstall and adjust.
Then reinstall and adjust.
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#4
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The "longer" cage 5701 RDER has 40T.
So, "theoretically", you'd have to lengthen your chain, which would reduce RDER spring tension slightly. More so if your chain is longer than needed.
I'd replace the cable housing. At least the rear "loop". Maybe things don't stick when "taken apart", but with the extra length of a tandem, I could see where minor "stickiness" could be exacerbated. A little lube for the rest wouldn't hurt.
IF this problem started occurring with cooler weather.....it may indicate any "lube" may be thickening.
#5
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A lot of cable and housing between the captain's handlebars
and the RD, on a tandem...
Replace (New STI housing)and grease the cable as you reassemble it..
Road Tandem is one place where Di2, electronics makes sense
and hydraulic rear brakes,
because of the distances involved...
and the RD, on a tandem...
Replace (New STI housing)and grease the cable as you reassemble it..
Road Tandem is one place where Di2, electronics makes sense
and hydraulic rear brakes,
because of the distances involved...
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Does that RD support a 32T rear cog? I know on my Shimano 105 RD (2008 manufacture) only officially supports up to 27T in back, though with some careful adjustment and by removing a chain link or two I was able to get up to 28T in back without the rear jockey wheel touching the cassette.
#7
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Does that RD support a 32T rear cog? I know on my Shimano 105 RD (2008 manufacture) only officially supports up to 27T in back, though with some careful adjustment and by removing a chain link or two I was able to get up to 28T in back without the rear jockey wheel touching the cassette.