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One unnecessary requirement is "not curved". For a rigid fork, i.e. not a suspension fork, either the fork blades can be curved or straight blades can be set at an angle to the crown. Both techniques can give the same amount of rake and from a rider's perspective, are exactly the same.

Threaded, 1 1/8" disc (confused, do you want this, or are you asking for a fork with just caliper brake mounts?) & 700c is a combination that really doesn't exist on the aftermarket, maybe a BSO would have this, but it would be a low quality / heavy fork.

Re-reading this, still confused about the brake mounts, touring forks almost by default = either canti mounts, or now more commonly disc, not caliper, you need to clarify this.

Disc or no disc, If you can eliminate the threaded issue, then there are some around, but your pricing is way off for a threaded one, best you'll get is £40ish for a NOS Dawes Galaxy fork, after that £100+ and your starting to get close, maybe less for 2nd hand, but don't count on it, as what your asking for is uncommon, add to that, it won't have straight blades (you're asking for a touring fork and straight blades, a combo which again does not exist out of custom).

For being a perfectionist, you need to either manage your expectations of what is relatively easily available, or pony up the cash and go custom, and you're probably be looking at £2-300 for what you want.

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So, what do you want, a fixie fork, or a touring fork?

For the brake mounting system, what your asking for does not = a common touring fork mounting setup

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Nothing says you can't cut/grind/file off the canti bosses if the fork crown has a through hole for caliper brakes & you have brakes that reach. Doing so is on you though. I wouldn't be keen to be hurried or sloppy in the execution.

As for a "straight" fork...track forks are generally pretty straight. 35mm of rake is pretty common & easy to get a hold of. They would be missing the touring fork through hole rack bosses mid-blade though. They could be installed by any frame builder for a nominal fee.

Not sure if 35mm of rake & the resulting huge amount of trail would be something you'd want to ride on a standard road bike, though. Actually installing a rack & loaded panniers, (the reason, I suspect for specifying "touring" fork,) would make the bike that much less responsive. Probably miserably, dangerously so. This is coming from a guy who's favorite road/gravel bike has a trail of 86mm. Most people say that's quite a lot. If you were curious, I'm running a Wound-up Gravel-X disc 47mm rake fork with 69.5 degree head tube angle, 700c wheels & 35mm road slicks.

My recommendation is figure out the trail number you want and let function be your guide. Appearance is a terrible reason if judged in isolation of other factors.

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pake-Fork-T...0AAOSwtida0MAE

Cro-mo. Any frame builder could install rack bosses mid-blade. Local shops in Seattle have a $100USD minimum charge. Paint/powdercoat is on you though. Count on another $100USD minimum for professional powder coat, the cheaper option of the two.

Why threaded? 1 1/8 threadless headsets are a dime a dozen.

Lower your expectations and raise your price and the curves of supply and demand will intersect.

So my question is why the need for a fork. Was there a fork bending incident? (If so then the next question is has the frame been checked out?) Was the OEM fork not included with the frame (purchase)? Is the current fork somehow just not to the liking?

Next up are my builder's perspective ones. What axle to crown seat dimension? What rake? With or without a brake caliper mounting hole? And if so with what rim diameter and brake reach are intended?

The description of steerer length and thread are rather vague. "Margin" isn't a term usually used but I suspect it's to mean the unthreaded portion of the steerer, true? The usual is to specify the total length and then the portion of that total that needs to be threaded. A 30mm headset stack is very low and not very common. But 33/35 and up to 40/42 are very common headset stacks. Does the OP know what the frame was made to have as the lower stack height?

Lastly is the whole approach here is sourcing a fork. With so small a budget and such specific (although really vague) specs I would be concerned about the source person being able/willing to convey what they have in a way that makes sense and is correct. Andy

#1, Wong side of the pond..

and '£25 for the fork and £5 for postage' is probably not enough even on the Island.

check the builders skips for discards..

...it's gonna be pretty difficult to meet those requirements in the used fork market unless you're at least willing to do some alteration of the steerer length and some rethreading if needed. You might have an unrealistic idea of just how used forks get reused.

And I genuinely don't get why you'd go with threaded over threadless in a 1 1/8 setup. Threadless is vastly easier to find, set up, and install in that diameter. You're essentially looking in the used fork parts stream for a fork that was not all that much used. By the time 1 1/8 was in vogue, most of what I've seen was outfitted as threadless.

I think you're looking for a rare beast indeed.

Threaded 1 1/8 was never widely adopted for road bikes.

It was a standard that hit a few hybrids for a period. But, by the time it would have hit the hybrid market, they would have all moved from calipers to cantilever/V-Brakes.

I think the best you'll do with those specs is to find an older Hybrid fork (sorry, probably picking up mostly US stock with my searches).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Touring-For...y/254063193861

Swapping from threaded to threadless 1 1/8" should be easy to do, and would give you a great number of forks to choose from. But, you will also need a headset, spacers, stem, and perhaps handlebars. Nonetheless, it would be a good upgrade.

Why hasn't this thread been moved to marketplace? Mods too busy deleting posts?

One additional note with damaged STEEL forks is that if the damage isn't too severe, they can be straightened.

From the tinkerer's perspective, there is a great deal of flexibility in what will fit and work. However, there are issues like brake reach and tire size that still must be addressed.

A Hybrid fork should likely give adequate tire clearance, but could push the limits of a caliper brake.

The OP isn't a paid member?

With this forum heavily weighted towards the USA and North America, and the rest of the members scattered around the globe, it will be tough to meet the OP's requirements:
Of course, one could go the other way... £5 for the fork and £25 for postage.

I think the best most of us can do is give advice on where to look, and/or what to look for.

Or, perhaps repair what the OP already has.

Try retrobike.co.uk

Also +1 on the 700c hybrid fork. Remove fixie and touring from your search terms, or wanted to buy ads.

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There is no 'Part That Does' You're either going to have to make it yourself, or kludge it together with adapters
Your best bet is to have threads cut in that fork that you have. 1-1/8 threaded, as you've found, wasn't around for long, and it never really made it to Road bikes.
Since your goal was a fixie/track/SS with the classic '7'-shaped road quill stem, your best bet would have been to start with a 1" headset frame.

A famous architect designed some buildings for a large parcel of land. Big buidlings (lots of people) with the design having a large courtyard between the buildings. The builder wanted to know where to put concrete pathways between the buildings. The architect asked him to hold up til after the buildings were open a few months. At that time, they looked at the trampled grass patterns to determine which pathways people had chosen. They put in paths where people wanted them, and left grass where folks had not walked.

You're asking someone to sell you part of a concrete walkway in an area where there is none. Perhaps your main desire for this fork design is uniqueness: you want something no one else has. Fair enough. But perhaps there's a reason why no one has or builds forks like this? Do other forks do things better than this design? BTW, your query also places form over function. There's a pretty important set of relationships between rake/offset, rake angle, trail and stability and riding characteristics. Get them wrong and your custom built frankenbike may ride very poorly. I'd check out your frame dimensions and consider what the bike is for (commute, tour, runabout townie, gravel) so that you get the right fork for your frame and use mode. In short, your first specification should be "I want the fork to do x and y for intended use of z". At which point you can start to specify how the thing looks.

Your offer of £25 for the fork and £5 for postage is probably not gonna get many people to even look, much less pull a fork off an old bike to sell to you. Or even to pull an old fork off the shelf and pack it up. In this country I'm guessing a custom fork per your design would be 200-400 bucks, and 20 bucks postage.

On Edit: Your last post clarifies a lot. I think you're on the right track getting threads added to your existing fork. Plus, you know you like how it rides, and the threading should not affect that much. Keep in mind that, after you thread the tube, it no longer is as strong. I'd be very leery about clamping a stem onto a threaded fork tube that was not designed to be threaded. In the old days, the threaded tubes were cut off near the level of the locknut, and the stem took all of the force on the bars. The stems were pretty strong. Steer tubes were designed to be thick enough to handle threads. With threadless, designers assume that no threads will be cut and they optimize (minimize) the tube thickness. Cut threads and you're probably below the fatigue limit.

You may wish to have a short extension piece made, with the same od as your steer tube, and threaded on one end, but of thicker tube. The other end could be turned down to insert into your forks existing steer tube. Then you could cut your existing steer tube and insert the extension piece. Weld to finish and hand file or grind the weld down to tube diameter. Especially if you aren't using a stem, I'd consider this.

As I mention above, form follows function. Strongly suggest you consider function as a constraint. You apparently hate standard threadless design. I suspect you'd hate the consequences of fork failure at speed even more.

As [MENTION=419049]WizardOfBoz[/MENTION] suggests, I typically see thinner wall tubing used for threadless than for threaded steer tubes.

That is an idea to take the threadless and threaded steer tubes, and splice the two somewhere in the middle. It should be strong enough, although any joint would be completely hidden.

I'd encourage you to give the threadless a fair shakedown. You may come to like them.

I say stick with it. Those straight blades will look cool with a quill stem.

You can bend your own fork. There are a number of people that have made fork bending jigs, and lots of photos on the web.



Just keep in mind that the "straight" forks are actually raked at the crown. You will have to be judicious if you add more rake.

I think I'd only do it on tapered fork legs. MTB fork lags that are round, and the same diameter the length could be interesting to work with.