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School me on chains please...

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Old 01-24-19 | 12:49 AM
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School me on chains please...

I have a 1x11 XT drivetrain, and I'm looking for a good, cheap chain. There are just sooo many choices, and so much variation in price. I simply want something reliable that won't leave me in the wilderness. And cheap!
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Old 01-24-19 | 01:43 AM
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Hmmm, a plethora of choices. And, unfortunately not a lot of hard data. Some companies publish "2x wear" or "3x wear", but without data, those numbers are pretty meaningless.

I'm not always convinced that cheaper is better, especially as worn chains can cause a lot of expensive damage to one's cassette and chainrings (depending on the value of those parts).

Shimano makes some basic chains that can generally be found for a good price. CN-HG701 (Ultegra) or CN-HG601 (105).

Wippermann makes some of the more expensive chains. According to their in house testing, the Wippemann Connex 11SX comes out at the top of their testing for longevity and wear.

KMC Chains?

One thing that is popping up is that several manufacturers are now listing E-Bike chains. And, it is not clear if those would give added strength and durability for typical riding applications.
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Old 01-24-19 | 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Wattsup
I have a 1x11 XT drivetrain, and I'm looking for a good, cheap chain. There are just sooo many choices, and so much variation in price. I simply want something reliable that won't leave me in the wilderness. And cheap!
Usually I go with a moderately-priced option from a reputable brand. Were it me, I'd buy a KMC 11.93 and call it a day. With SRAM, I'd probably go PC-1170. There are a lot of choices, and I find refuge in the mainstream options by the major brands.
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Old 01-24-19 | 06:52 AM
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My experience with chains. Remember this comes from 2 x 10 Campy drive trains. So, it might be apples and oranges for you.
Sram wears the fastest
KMC lasts long, is the least expensive, but is noisy.
Wippermann is quiet, about equal with KMC for wear, but is a lot more expensive than the others.
All shift well, with the Wippermann just slightly better.
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Old 01-24-19 | 06:59 AM
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I don't think I've ever broken an 11 speed chain. On occasion, I'll break a 9 speed or less chain.

However, it never hurts to be prepared, such as carrying a chain tool, and perhaps a quick link or chain pin.
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Old 01-24-19 | 07:06 AM
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I've never noticed anything functional about a chain that is more likely attributed to manufacturer than to status of upkeep and to degree of wear.
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Old 01-24-19 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Wattsup
...cheap...And cheap!
Gearbasher's experience is close to mine and I would throw in Campagnolo chains as well and with your priority clearly being cheap, look for one of these brands with the biggest discount from one of the big web cycling vendors or ebay.
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Old 01-24-19 | 07:31 AM
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If there is a common problem of chains breaking and getting stranded, it has completely avoided me. I carry a spare link but never had to use it yet. Replacing a chain because of wear and tolerance is common but that is not a sudden thing. My choice with a balance of price, performance, and longetivity is the KMC SL series. The KMC X series is a great chain but in my situations the SL lasts as least twice as long and a better overall value to me but not cheap. This is gravel and MTB that are always dirty, gritty, and wet. I can't speak for a dry clean road bike.

Is the KMC X10.93 or X11.93 still around or is it just now called a "X10" or "X11"? I don't see them on the US KMC web site but they are on common sites for sale.

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Old 01-24-19 | 07:32 AM
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I use the basic KMC X-11 or Shimano chain on my 1x11 setup. Either provides good shifting performance and reasonable life. I don't like the Shimano replacement pin system preferring the KMC link instead. 11 speed chains are pricey (to cheap me) so I generally look for sales or other discounts to decide on a choice.
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Old 01-24-19 | 07:35 AM
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My only negative experience was by the time I hit 10 spd. Shimano, I could no longer just pop on a cheap SRAM chain. A Shimano 105 level 10 spd. or better seemed to provide better rear shifting. Now I mostly just stay within a manufacturers line.

I also noticed that with 11spd, systems, companies that used to have re-usable links, such as KMC, now state the link should not be re-used. Likely just a way to make money as the general experiences seem to be re-using 11 spd, links causes no issues.
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Old 01-24-19 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Wattsup
I have a 1x11 XT drivetrain, and I'm looking for a good, cheap chain. There are just sooo many choices, and so much variation in price. I simply want something reliable that won't leave me in the wilderness. And cheap!
Buy something. Don't spend a lot of money. The rest is just details that don't matter much. From cheap to expensive, they are all going to wear about the same.

Originally Posted by u235
If there is a common problem of chains breaking and getting stranded, it has completely avoided me. I carry a spare link but never had to use it yet. Replacing a chain because of wear and tolerance is common but that is not a sudden thing. My choice with a balance of price, performance, and longetivity is the KMC SL series. The KMC X series is a great chain but in my situations the SL lasts as least twice as long and a better overall value to me. This is gravel and MTB that are always dirty, gritty, and wet. I can't speak for a dry clean road bike.
With regards to breaking, I've had similar experience. The only chain that has broken in my family's fleet over 40 years of bicycling is an early SRAM (Sedis maybe?) that used the old style master link. The link is the part that broke.

On the other hand, I'm not going to say that one brand or kind of chain is longer lasting or performs better in any measurable way. A chain's lifespan falls into a fairly narrow range of 3000 to 4000 miles with 3500 being just about the average in both my experience and in reporting here and elsewhere. More expensive chains are just more expensive. They don't offer any added benefit.
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Old 01-24-19 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by dabac
I've never noticed anything functional about a chain that is more likely attributed to manufacturer than to status of upkeep and to degree of wear.
^This.
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Old 01-24-19 | 09:52 AM
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I use basic KMC with quick-links for my 10 speeds. No problems.
I assume their 11s are just as good
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Old 01-24-19 | 02:46 PM
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I have used sram, Shimano, kmc, and wipperman. All are good, since you have Shimano Xt gruppo go with a Shimano.
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Old 01-24-19 | 02:57 PM
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I've got a Wipperman on one of my 10sp bikes and it's wearing like iron but is noisy as heck. Sram chains seem to be opposite.
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Old 01-24-19 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Buy something. Don't spend a lot of money. The rest is just details that don't matter much. From cheap to expensive, they are all going to wear about the same.
With regards to breaking, I've had similar experience. The only chain that has broken in my family's fleet over 40 years of bicycling is an early SRAM (Sedis maybe?) that used the old style master link. The link is the part that broke..
What about twisting?

I've replaced more chains due to twisted links following an incident of some kind than due to breaks.
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Old 01-24-19 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
What about twisting?

I've replaced more chains due to twisted links following an incident of some kind than due to breaks.
Odd...
I break a chain every year or so. But, I don't think I've ever had a "twisted link".

It is sometimes a bad shift that will break a chain, but I can usually stop pedaling before I tear off the whole rear-end of my bike.
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Old 01-24-19 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CliffordK
Odd...
I break a chain every year or so. But, I don't think I've ever had a "twisted link".

It is sometimes a bad shift that will break a chain, but I can usually stop pedaling before I tear off the whole rear-end of my bike.
Usually? Lol. I've wrapped a derailleur into the spokes once but that was it... Uneventful and lucky as I was moving maybe 3 mph in the grass when it happened.
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Old 01-24-19 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
What about twisting?

I've replaced more chains due to twisted links following an incident of some kind than due to breaks.
Nope. Not once. Even with chain suck.
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Old 01-24-19 | 05:24 PM
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I've broken chains from my raw power.
I've broken chains from twisted links from a bad shift.
But most of them I broke were from bad pin insertions on my part.

So my advice is get one with a good method to shorten and attach.
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Old 01-24-19 | 05:48 PM
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Once chains got past 3/32, and went thinner lots of compromises were chosen,,
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Old 01-25-19 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CliffordK
Odd...
I break a chain every year or so. But, I don't think I've ever had a "twisted link".

It is sometimes a bad shift that will break a chain, but I can usually stop pedaling before I tear off the whole rear-end of my bike.
Wow...That's unusual.
Pin reconnect problems ?
I only use "quick links" since the 7 speed days. Even then I had no problems.
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Old 01-25-19 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DiabloScott
I've broken chains from my raw power.
I've broken chains from twisted links from a bad shift.
But most of them I broke were from bad pin insertions on my part.

So my advice is get one with a good method to shorten and attach.
yeah, me too wink wink
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Old 01-26-19 | 01:37 PM
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Thanks all for the advice!
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Old 01-29-19 | 07:24 AM
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Chains and Cheap Chains

Originally Posted by Wattsup
I have a 1x11 XT drivetrain, and I'm looking for a good, cheap chain. There are just sooo many choices, and so much variation in price. I simply want something reliable that won't leave me in the wilderness. And cheap!
Assuming you know the width of your chain, look at KMC products. There are tons to choose from, depending on whether you want to go the BRAG, SHOW, or RIDE and save route. KMC usually has a nice downloadable pdf brochure showing all of their chain lines by riding type and expense.

High performance chains are for those who need them, not everyday commuters or occasional riders.

Expensive chains are for those who want to brag about their spending, or show off their bikes' fancy matching colors, e.g., red bike and a red chain; or black bike with black spokes and wheels and a black chain.

With proper lubrication and cleaning (every 500 miles or so), expect to get 2,000 miles from a chain before stretching and distortion starts wearing on sprockets and chain wheels. When that happens, chains become less reliable, subject to breaking and slipping if roller slots get elongated or sprocket teeth eroded.

Bought online in quantities of two or more, expect to pay about $8 - $10 for a perfectly good chain - but shop around because a lot of bike shops see chains as high profit items because you have to have them to ride.
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