School me on chains please...
#1
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School me on chains please...
I have a 1x11 XT drivetrain, and I'm looking for a good, cheap chain. There are just sooo many choices, and so much variation in price. I simply want something reliable that won't leave me in the wilderness. And cheap!
#2
Hmmm, a plethora of choices. And, unfortunately not a lot of hard data. Some companies publish "2x wear" or "3x wear", but without data, those numbers are pretty meaningless.
I'm not always convinced that cheaper is better, especially as worn chains can cause a lot of expensive damage to one's cassette and chainrings (depending on the value of those parts).
Shimano makes some basic chains that can generally be found for a good price. CN-HG701 (Ultegra) or CN-HG601 (105).
Wippermann makes some of the more expensive chains. According to their in house testing, the Wippemann Connex 11SX comes out at the top of their testing for longevity and wear.
KMC Chains?
One thing that is popping up is that several manufacturers are now listing E-Bike chains. And, it is not clear if those would give added strength and durability for typical riding applications.
I'm not always convinced that cheaper is better, especially as worn chains can cause a lot of expensive damage to one's cassette and chainrings (depending on the value of those parts).
Shimano makes some basic chains that can generally be found for a good price. CN-HG701 (Ultegra) or CN-HG601 (105).
Wippermann makes some of the more expensive chains. According to their in house testing, the Wippemann Connex 11SX comes out at the top of their testing for longevity and wear.
KMC Chains?
One thing that is popping up is that several manufacturers are now listing E-Bike chains. And, it is not clear if those would give added strength and durability for typical riding applications.
#3
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From: Munising, Michigan, USA
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Usually I go with a moderately-priced option from a reputable brand. Were it me, I'd buy a KMC 11.93 and call it a day. With SRAM, I'd probably go PC-1170. There are a lot of choices, and I find refuge in the mainstream options by the major brands.
#4
My experience with chains. Remember this comes from 2 x 10 Campy drive trains. So, it might be apples and oranges for you.
Sram wears the fastest
KMC lasts long, is the least expensive, but is noisy.
Wippermann is quiet, about equal with KMC for wear, but is a lot more expensive than the others.
All shift well, with the Wippermann just slightly better.
Sram wears the fastest
KMC lasts long, is the least expensive, but is noisy.
Wippermann is quiet, about equal with KMC for wear, but is a lot more expensive than the others.
All shift well, with the Wippermann just slightly better.
#5
I don't think I've ever broken an 11 speed chain. On occasion, I'll break a 9 speed or less chain.
However, it never hurts to be prepared, such as carrying a chain tool, and perhaps a quick link or chain pin.
However, it never hurts to be prepared, such as carrying a chain tool, and perhaps a quick link or chain pin.
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#8
If there is a common problem of chains breaking and getting stranded, it has completely avoided me. I carry a spare link but never had to use it yet. Replacing a chain because of wear and tolerance is common but that is not a sudden thing. My choice with a balance of price, performance, and longetivity is the KMC SL series. The KMC X series is a great chain but in my situations the SL lasts as least twice as long and a better overall value to me but not cheap. This is gravel and MTB that are always dirty, gritty, and wet. I can't speak for a dry clean road bike.
Is the KMC X10.93 or X11.93 still around or is it just now called a "X10" or "X11"? I don't see them on the US KMC web site but they are on common sites for sale.
Is the KMC X10.93 or X11.93 still around or is it just now called a "X10" or "X11"? I don't see them on the US KMC web site but they are on common sites for sale.
Last edited by u235; 01-24-19 at 08:45 AM.
#9
I use the basic KMC X-11 or Shimano chain on my 1x11 setup. Either provides good shifting performance and reasonable life. I don't like the Shimano replacement pin system preferring the KMC link instead. 11 speed chains are pricey (to cheap me) so I generally look for sales or other discounts to decide on a choice.
#10
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My only negative experience was by the time I hit 10 spd. Shimano, I could no longer just pop on a cheap SRAM chain. A Shimano 105 level 10 spd. or better seemed to provide better rear shifting. Now I mostly just stay within a manufacturers line.
I also noticed that with 11spd, systems, companies that used to have re-usable links, such as KMC, now state the link should not be re-used. Likely just a way to make money as the general experiences seem to be re-using 11 spd, links causes no issues.
I also noticed that with 11spd, systems, companies that used to have re-usable links, such as KMC, now state the link should not be re-used. Likely just a way to make money as the general experiences seem to be re-using 11 spd, links causes no issues.
#11
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If there is a common problem of chains breaking and getting stranded, it has completely avoided me. I carry a spare link but never had to use it yet. Replacing a chain because of wear and tolerance is common but that is not a sudden thing. My choice with a balance of price, performance, and longetivity is the KMC SL series. The KMC X series is a great chain but in my situations the SL lasts as least twice as long and a better overall value to me. This is gravel and MTB that are always dirty, gritty, and wet. I can't speak for a dry clean road bike.
On the other hand, I'm not going to say that one brand or kind of chain is longer lasting or performs better in any measurable way. A chain's lifespan falls into a fairly narrow range of 3000 to 4000 miles with 3500 being just about the average in both my experience and in reporting here and elsewhere. More expensive chains are just more expensive. They don't offer any added benefit.
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Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#12
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#13
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I use basic KMC with quick-links for my 10 speeds. No problems.
I assume their 11s are just as good
I assume their 11s are just as good
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#16
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Buy something. Don't spend a lot of money. The rest is just details that don't matter much. From cheap to expensive, they are all going to wear about the same.
With regards to breaking, I've had similar experience. The only chain that has broken in my family's fleet over 40 years of bicycling is an early SRAM (Sedis maybe?) that used the old style master link. The link is the part that broke..
With regards to breaking, I've had similar experience. The only chain that has broken in my family's fleet over 40 years of bicycling is an early SRAM (Sedis maybe?) that used the old style master link. The link is the part that broke..
I've replaced more chains due to twisted links following an incident of some kind than due to breaks.
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#17
I break a chain every year or so. But, I don't think I've ever had a "twisted link".
It is sometimes a bad shift that will break a chain, but I can usually stop pedaling before I tear off the whole rear-end of my bike.
#18
Usually? Lol. I've wrapped a derailleur into the spokes once but that was it... Uneventful and lucky as I was moving maybe 3 mph in the grass when it happened.
#19
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Nope. Not once. Even with chain suck.
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Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
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#20
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I've broken chains from my raw power.
I've broken chains from twisted links from a bad shift.
But most of them I broke were from bad pin insertions on my part.
So my advice is get one with a good method to shorten and attach.
I've broken chains from twisted links from a bad shift.
But most of them I broke were from bad pin insertions on my part.
So my advice is get one with a good method to shorten and attach.
#22
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Pin reconnect problems ?
I only use "quick links" since the 7 speed days. Even then I had no problems.
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#23
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wink wink
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#25
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Chains and Cheap Chains
High performance chains are for those who need them, not everyday commuters or occasional riders.
Expensive chains are for those who want to brag about their spending, or show off their bikes' fancy matching colors, e.g., red bike and a red chain; or black bike with black spokes and wheels and a black chain.
With proper lubrication and cleaning (every 500 miles or so), expect to get 2,000 miles from a chain before stretching and distortion starts wearing on sprockets and chain wheels. When that happens, chains become less reliable, subject to breaking and slipping if roller slots get elongated or sprocket teeth eroded.
Bought online in quantities of two or more, expect to pay about $8 - $10 for a perfectly good chain - but shop around because a lot of bike shops see chains as high profit items because you have to have them to ride.






