I'd use different spokes,,, and this:
Sheldon Brown Initial Spoke Adjustment:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

What do the spoke holes in the hubs look like? Do they have a chamfer on one or both sides? That spoke doesn't seem to fit into the hub all the way. I'd be looking for a chamfer in the spoke hole.

really obsessive on details? the head making machine leaves flashing... back side of the head... file that smooth..

It was a German suggestion, by the people at Rohloff






...

I was told a long time ago the Campy hubs (and that meant NR and Tipo then) were made to use 15 Ga spokes. Of course we (and I personally) laced them with 14Ga spokes many times with no issues. But this story does explain the greater bowing out of a just installed 14 Ga spoke with these hubs. I bend in the the spoke tighter against the flange after the initial lace up. Done this, maybe, hundreds of times over the years. Andy

^^^ I'll ditto what Andy says. Once you've got the wheel laced but not tensioned it's common practice to push down on the outside spokes so the bend is a little tighter to the flange.

a NOS Rim?

....personally, when a wheel I'm building laces up like that, I take it outside where I have a well worn wood sawhorse with a rubber mallet and hit the spokes just outboard of the flanges with the wood supporting the down side and the mallet impacting the top side spoke at each pair. That usually improves the line so that the spokes exiting outward are supported by the flanges (which is important...and they won't always pull up tight against the flange just from tensioning).

This doesn't much help improve the spokes that exit inward, so I pull on those with an old aluminum non-drive side crank arm wrapped in duct tape as a part of the stress relief routine for the bends at the head..

To get the spokes to fit up tight along the flanges, I bring the spokes up to just enough tension so they are mostly straight and the wheel is fairly rigid. Then, using any old tool that will fit, insert it between crossing spokes next to the flange and pry gently inward on the heads in spoke and outward on the heads out spoke.

Yes, this is ideal. This way, the tension will be caused less by the original bend, once you have bent the spokes to straightness.

The tools I use to bend in the splaying out loose spokes ate those I can into the world equipped with, my fingers. It's less trying to get the spokes final arrangement (amount of the bending within the elbow, amount just after the elbow) that complete tension will achieve as it's about making the tensioning go faster and the feel of the nipple's turning more reflect the spoke tension increase then the spoke's being bent straight. (And yes some will say this is the same. I say then go build up a cheap steel hub that had thin flanges and little or no spoke splay initially. You'll feel the difference in how the nipples tighten up and how the rim responds during this initial tensioning up phase). Andy

Ditto. Although I use my thumbs instead of fingers.

....don't you guys ever just want to hit something with a hammer ?

Yes. It's how I extract stubborn bottom bracket cups.

Last thing I used a hammer on was the chain stay sockets of a BB shell during angle manipulations. Although I have joked for years about the bike shop Olympics contest, "The 5 Meter Hammer Catch. Only the quickest of customers need enter Andy

As a rule, bicycle mechanics don't force anything. We just get a bigger hammer.