Brakes
#2
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
No, generally most feel that the front brake is the more powerful one (and at the limit of going over the bars it becomes the only brake
. Does the lever pull feel solid and remain the same after repeated pulls? The two first possibilities are the pads are contaminated with something that reduces their friction (or are badly glazed) or if the brakes are hydraulic there's air in the line. Andy
. Does the lever pull feel solid and remain the same after repeated pulls? The two first possibilities are the pads are contaminated with something that reduces their friction (or are badly glazed) or if the brakes are hydraulic there's air in the line. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#4
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What kind of disc brakes are these? Brand? Model? I think it is now time to check the brakes themselves and it sounds to me like you may want to take it to the shop to have it done right by people who have done it hundreds of times.
#5
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From: San Diego, California
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
#6
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
It sounds as if the brake needs to be bled, to start, but specific tools are needed and since it is a safety item someone who is skilled should probably do the work as Leisesturm suggests..
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