So the Crank-brothers Shoe Shields are not really compatible with Shimano cleats.

I wanted this to work, because with new shoes I usually need to fine-tune how the cleats are mounted. Once the "teeth" on the cleats dig in to the shoes, making small adjustments is very difficult. I was hoping that I could use the Shoe-Shields to keep the teeth from digging too much into the shoes, then fine-tune the cleat position as needed... But this is not the ideal solution I was hoping for.

What's a better solution?

Pictured: Crank-brothers Shoe Shield on top of Shimano SPD cleat.



Crank-brothers Shoe Shield on top of Shimano SPD cleat.

Back in the day of nail on cleats we had a harder time changing cleat position on the shoe. So we would ride the shoes with quill pedals long enough to emboss the pedal's cages into the shoe sole. Cleat angle will be square to these wear marks. Finding the ball of foot balance point is pretty easy with a friend marking the show sole when you're good with the fore/aft location. Side to side is all about clearance WRT the crank arm and your natural "Q" width. (This is perhaps the least direct an aspect but also, perhaps, the least effecting dimension for most riders).

The short answer is to not tighten your first mounting of cleats too much and test ride at sub max efforts until you're good with cleat positioning. The long answer is that even with the Fit Kit's RAD pedals cleat location is as much preference as is a measurable spot. At some point you have to work for the knowledge specific to your body at the current condition of your body. Andy

CB newer cleats also come with plastic shields:



I don't use them for I need the stainless version.

Actually, I would just cut up something like a plastic bottle and make some gaskets. Maybe even try cutting up a soda can.

I buy thin sheets of carbon fiber from ebay, and cut (with scissors) a shield. I have also made complete insoles by buying two sheets.