Hi everyone,
I have a singlespeed currently running a Surly 17 cog on the back. I want to fit a Surly 16 tooth cog instead.
Does this mean i remove a single chainlink from my chain? Seems simple, but i don't want to mess up and have to buy another chain.
Thanks.

Only one tooth difference? Unless the wheel is already at the rearward adjustment limit, you ought to be able to use the same chain without removing links.

I believe the axle moves roughly 1/8 in. per tooth difference. As FiftySix said, unless you're right at the limit, it's fine to use the same chain. In fact, that's why most SS/FG hubs are flip/flop. You can change the gearing by flipping the wheel.

I agree with the others. Unless you are already near the limit then no links need to be removed. If the wheel is all the way back in the track ends then removal of a link may be required.

Keep in mind that the rim will move toward the rear of the bike. If running a rear brake then check to make sure the pads still contact the brake track properly and that they don't rub against the tire. Adjusting pad position may be required.


-Tim-

Thanks guys...I should have mentioned, it's an eccentric bb. And it was already almost at the max limit.
I've removed a link, and now the chain is too short. 😫

Add a half link. Half links are just an ordinary 1/2" link except that instead of being "male" at both ends or "female" at both ends, half links are one of each so your chain is now half way between where it is now and where it was before.

I do not know if half links are made for 3/32" chain. I use then frequently on my 1/2" chain fix gears. A bike shop should have half links. If not, try an Ace Hardware with a full selection of fasteners. The hardware variety have much bigger side plates but for a simple single speed that should not matter unless the plates hit the freewheel body and lift the chain. (That will break the chain so check.) 1/2" chain is an old, well established standard. The pins of your chain and the half link will be compatible whether the link comes from a bike shop or the hardware store. The half link pin may be a screw with a nut, a regular pin you drive with a chaintool or a cotter pin with a clevis ring. They all work. Like I said, chain technology is ancient and proven. (Until you start messing with flexing the chains, running poor chain lines, etc., ie derailleur stuff. )

Ben

Yep. Get a half-link. I had to get one in order to make a magic gear FG work. That was a fun, but ultimately impractical little project.

+1 on the half link.

A KMC Z51-OL will work.

https://www.amaincycling.com/kmc-z41...z51-ol/p306053

Two bucks + $1.99 shipping.

KMC sells whole chains made of half links so that removing a link only removes half the usual length.



-Tim-

I put the link back in the chain(3/32 KMC),
and moved the ebb to maximum forward, and there is too much slack. Looks like half link may be the way...or a 15 tooth cog...lol.
Thanks again.

Thanks TimothyH.
I'll grab a few of those KMC half links. That'll do nicely.

Never tried a FG, but boy it seems like a lot of work just to change gears.

Reene, i originally used it for winter woodland riding, as cleaning the gears was a chore.
I was amazed at how much better the bike felt without all the clutter on it...especially the rear end. The drivetrain feels so much more solid.
Oh, and the cassettes the bike companies manufacture? Notice how the cogs are getting thinner and thinner? What we on now 12 or 11 speed cassettes? Less and less durable. What a con.

You only need one half-link. There's nothing multiple half-links can do that you can't accomplish with a single half-link (unless you intend to install them on multiple bikes).

I'll order a minimum of 2, things have a habit of going wrong or getting lost with me. For the same reason i always carry a spare SRAM powerlink on any ride with my geared bike.

Yeah, but we only do it once or twice in our whole lives.

It's probably less work than flicking a finger ten quadrillion times over the decades.



You are a credit to melancholics everywhere.

Indeed true. Out of curiosity, do the FG or SS riders out there ever put on a fixed position rear derailleur pulley/cage, solely for the purpose of being able accept different rear wheels (giving or taking chain slack) where you might have various wheels set up with a different cog?

If you ride fixed, you do NOT use any sort of derailleur or tensioner. The first time you apply back pressure for whatever reason, you will have an expensive disaster.

At one time, changing gears in fix gear races was done on the mountain stages. I continue that tradition with my custom, taking it one step further and carrying a chainwhip. In fact, tomorrow I leave for Cycle Oregon with that bike, the whip, a double sided rear wheel and every cog from 12 to 24 teeth. (And a spare 42 tooth chainring in case I find the 43 too much.)

Sunday, for the opening day of 3800 feet of climbing, I'll leave camp on the 17 and 24 and carry 12 and 15 for the downhill second half. Our rest day climb to Crater Lake will be very simple. Roll out on the 17, flip to the 24 to get to the rim, unscrew the 17 and replace it with the 12. (No flat up there. 12 and 24 is all I need.)

If you have to ask why I do this - simple. At my age I cannot (and should not even try to) ride those those uphills in a 42-17 and sure as heck do not want to ride down in the same, but I love riding fix gear. Now I can ride fix gear in some of the most wonderful places on our planet.

Ben