Cassette removal tool
 

Hi all,
Have an old Murray Baja 5000 mountain bike. Traditional steel framed 80’s Murray.

Wondering if anyone would have an idea which removal tool would fit the fastener to remove the cassette. It seems there are a few different sizes so to speak.

I plan on taking the back wheel apart and greasing the hub. I did the crank and front hub and they were a little dry. Purchased recently. Practically brand new. Bike was ridden around the blocks a few times and stored in a basement since mid 80’s.

any insight?

I'd be surprised at a Murray of that era having a cassette, freewheel would be far more likely. But we can't see your bike... Agreed that more data or photos will help us help you. Andy

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It would be easier to visualize with the wheel off. But, that looks like it may be a Shimano Megarange freewheel.

In which case, the tool would be a Park FR-1, FR-1.2, or FR-1.3 (they are backwards compatible). There are a number of low cost similar tools.

Remove the wheel and verify markings.

You have a kink in your chain indicating it may need some lube, and perhaps has a tight link. Make sure all the chain links move freely.

A few tight chain links can cause symptoms of skipping.

You might consider replacing the brake pads, which have likely dried out and hardened over the decades.

If those are original MAFAC cantilever brakes, you could remove them and sell them on EBay, and likely get enough $$$ to buy a better used bike.

Those steel rims need all the help they can get. :thumb:

Not on a Murray. There were many copies of MAFAC brakes made back then. I agree with DS: replace the brake pads if you want halfway decent brake performance.

Back to the original question: given the age of the machine and the SunTour derailleur, I think you might have a SunTour AG (for "Alpine Gear") freewheel. This has a very wide range 14 tooth to 38 tooth setup. It requires a Park Tool FR-2: https://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-fr-2 and careful technique to remove the freewheel. (Freewheel removal has been discussed many times before and there are some good online how-to videos.)

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

I bought it for a whopping 40$. I know it’s a Murray and all that. Purchased it more than anything to really see if I wanted to get back into riding. The bike is what it is and has been flawless.

The chain was real dry. I’ve used Triflow for years and has always been just awesome. That got it going again.

Being that it had knobby tires on it, they are pretty shot after 300 miles on the road in the past two months.
Since it was stored indoors all these years, the rubber on the pads and tires were ok. Tires have now been replaced with Michelin’s ($27 bucks each).

I’m not a hardcore rider or whatever. Rides have been between 15-25 miles on weekends at an avg if 13-14mph. It’s been fun minus getting chSed by a couple of dogs last week on a country road.

Thanks again for the insight.https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a102c6e18.jpeghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1c928e6b9.jpeg
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OHHH!!! I was worried about not seeing "Megarange" written on the freewheel like Shimano usually does.

But, the two prong vs splined removal tool would be obvious once the wheel is removed and one looks at the freewheel. Plus the brand is usually inscribed on the center part of the freewheel.

As mentioned, be careful with removing a freewheel with a 2-prong tool (tighten the nut down on the tool, turn a bit, then slowly turn and release the nut).

Looks like your chain has a tight link. A little side-to-side pressure might loosen it.

Neat looking bike.

A good application of Triflow took care of it.
Have any of you ever used Triflow?

Certainly not on chains. Too expensive and light duty.
Any lube called "chain lube" is bound to be superior.
0000 REM answer
0100 GOTO, discussions, lube, chain, boring, stupid, repetitive
0200 GOTO 0100
0300 END

Although WAX has its advantages if you don't mind a hairy chain.