Hi ,. not ceramic diference vs grade vs abec ? thank,s
I neec new so witch one ?

This guy makes some very good videos and here's one on quality bearings.

I called Wheels Manufacturing and had a very interesting talk about bearings. Are you trying to improve durability, lower resistance, stop creaking?

Hello.
My CAAD7 with origin bearings don,t creak, so lower resistance

I watched a couple of the videos, discovered the whole ABEC thing is kind of crap. Good to know.

I have a CAAD10 and a bearing on one side is feeling a bit rough..hoping it makes it through sloppy weather season and then I will replace in the spring. I have a set bearings on had, but I bought them on ebay so I am sure they are Chinese knockoffs Hambini warns against. They feel perfectly smooth, but one had more drag than the other. I popped the seals off and discovered that one of the seals on the draggy one had a bit of slop and evenness around the lip. I was able to trim that off and that reduced drag quite a bit. I guess I will use them for as long as they last and then invest in higher quality.

Best:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=61717

( invest in higher quality.) hello ok but witch brand ? SKF NTN *** etc?

this is an insert to switch to 24mm spindle, BBinfinite make also for bb30

Yeah, I have seen the bbinfinite stuff. Proprietary bearings not a good idea. And the spinning seems just a function of non contact seals.

Implication of the Hambini videos is that quality is equivalent so get whats available.But I dunno

please explain to me this:
And the spinning seems just a function of non contact seals.
thank,s

Well in the videos Hambini makes the point that most drag is due to seals. Some bearings have full contact seals, which make contact with the bearing races, and some have noncontact seals. The contact seals are better for keeping crap from getting inside the bearing so are more durable; noncontact create less drag so spin more feely. BBINFINITE’s thing seems to be low drag so I guess they use noncontact seals. Other brands are available in noncontact as well.

So NTN and the like cost $20.00. I get that bearings on ebay that are cheap might be of questionable origin and quality. But what about place like this... https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/6...aring-30x42x7/? At $4.00 does one presume they use same unreliable suppliers Hambini warns about?

I don’t even see a brand name on these. You have to ask how good a product could be if the manufacturer isn’t even willing to put their name on it. NTN, NSK, SKF, F.A.G. Those are 4 very large companies and any one of those should be very good. If you’re spending $30-$40 on tires, $2000 on the bike, you may as well spend a bit on good bearings that, if not abused and aligned properly should last a very, very long time.

Yeah, kind of what I figured. Hard to find anything but enduro from US

No. The link is to Chris King's BB30 bottom bracket for 30mm spindles. I run that bb in my Supersix Evo. To fit a 24mm spindle they make conversion kits.

https://chrisking.com/products/botto...t-press-fit-30
also bb30 vs press-fit are not the same ?

BB30 and PF30 are not the same. BB30 the bearings press directly into the frame. PF30 the bearings are in a housing that is pressed into the frame. Obviously both are for 30mm crank spindle.

yes mine is BB30 so CK is not for me thank,s I,ll see with Hambini SKF or NTN

I purchased a press and the bearings from Wheels Manufacturing for my BB30 replacement. I went with the Enduro angular contact bearing based on Wheels claim they are more durable. I figure I am my biggest detriment to speed on the bike.

I was wondering about the angular contact options. I am not sure they add anything because a crank is all radial load. Also, I am am not confident the preload collar on my Sram cranks would provide sufficient preload for AC bearings.

I am also wondering about seal choices. Non content seals seem to reduce drag but do those marginal gains come at a durability cost because grit and water are more likely to get into the bearings?

The OE crank in my Orbea was a SRAM Rival utilizing the adjusting collar. I used that the first year then I replaced it with a Force crank that utilizes a wave washer. About 4 years and 8k miles in from new, one of the bearings became gravel-ly feeling that was when I replaced the originals with the Enduros. I don't know the preload requirements of either bearing type other than I adjust the preload to the SRAM spec in the install manual. Also I can't give any insight on the (Enduro brand) longevity as I built another bike at the time I replaced bearings, and have ridden the new bike far more than the Orbea since.

I didn't give any thought to the drag caused by the bearing seals as my speed isn't affected by the crank bearing seals.

You’re probably right about the drag issue. Watching cranks spin round and round with low drag bearings may seem better but once hooked up to chain, the difference between full seals and lower drag ones in terms of watts is probably marginal. Plus there is the tradeoff in durability to consider since full seals will keep more crap out. That said, Enduro seems to use low contact seals so they should have a bit lower drag than fuller seals

So next issue I am curious about is bearing clearance (space between balls and races within the bearings) In the Hambini videos, he is not high on Enduro because they use C3 clearance while other quality bearing makers (NTN, NSK, etc) use CN, meaning in the later the space between balls and races are smaller than in Enduro. But on their website, Enduro promotes C3 as a selling point. Hambini says they will wear faster and make more noise, but I have seen elsewhere the theory that for pressfit BBs, C3 is preferable to account for the forces that the crank spindle and being pressed to the BB shell exert on the races, so will be smoother once installed.

None of this I am likely to notice while actually riding, although durability is a consideration. Anyway, I will probably end up getting enduro since they are widely available, although I will probably stick with deep grove rather than angular; but I am still a bit unsure as to what combination of seal type and clearance will give me the best combination of performance and durability.

so the angular contact are the good choice for durability and loer resistance ?

Not necessarily. They are designed to deal with side forces, which should be minimal in a BB, so deep grove radial bearings should perform just as well. And you have to make sure you have the correct preload, something not at issue with deep groove radial bearings. But they are better for dealing with misalignments, which BB30 applications can experience if the frame shell is off; so if you are burning through radial bearings quickly, could be there is a misalignment at play. But all things being well aligned, deep grove bearings operating in a radial space like a BB, should have lower drag. At least as far as I have been able to determine.