Steel Frame Surface Rust
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
I would apply a rust converter, a Web search will yield many suggestions, which will turn the rust into a stable substance which will act a a primer, then paint over the area to inhibit further rust. Get the converter into the mounting holes and frame tubes as well as you can. I doubt the frame is seriously compromised but frame experts on the forum may chime in.
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
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I would apply a rust converter, a Web search will yield many suggestions, which will turn the rust into a stable substance which will act a a primer, then paint over the area to inhibit further rust. Get the converter into the mounting holes and frame tubes as well as you can. I doubt the frame is seriously compromised but frame experts on the forum may chime in.
#5
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Frame is toast, what size is it???
Really it's just aging. Best- Scrape/sand off all rust you can, and prime/paint with model/touch up paint. Pull off all components and apply rust converter (I use https://www.evaporust.com/ ) internally and then rust inhibitor (Frame Saver). Andy
Really it's just aging. Best- Scrape/sand off all rust you can, and prime/paint with model/touch up paint. Pull off all components and apply rust converter (I use https://www.evaporust.com/ ) internally and then rust inhibitor (Frame Saver). Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#6
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 169
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From: Southern California
Bikes: Trek Domane SL5, REI Co-Op ADV1.1, Basic 26" city bike, Antique MTB.
Then after removing what you can, rinse well, let it dry a good long time then use the converter, primer then paint. Paint is best applied with a brush because spray paint gets into everything
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 390
The frame is fine. That little bridge has very little structural value anyway, its main purpose is just as a fender mount. But as others have said you want to get some kind of schmoo down in there to try to stop it rusting any more.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,660
Likes: 177
Ospho works. Is Phosphoric acid that chemically turns the rust to iron Phosphate. You can either paint over it or leave it.
https://www.worldpaintsupply.com/osp...tal-treatment/
https://www.worldpaintsupply.com/osp...tal-treatment/
#11
The dropped

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 2,182
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From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1969 Raleigh Superbe, 1986 Miyata Nine : 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold), 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Keep in mind that the naval jelly can form phosphate crystals, which are grayish-white and powdery, on the treated steel. Ospho recommends wiping with mineral spirits to remove them before painting.
#12
The dropped

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 2,182
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From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1969 Raleigh Superbe, 1986 Miyata Nine : 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold), 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
#13
(spanish native lang here)
I see in the pic that its over the metal, isnt corroding the metal, you can also repaint your frame, use premier paint and then the desired color, you can use a drill with a cable ball thing adapter (i dont know how is named in english) and you can strip all out paint and specially oxide parts and you will see that the oxide is over the metal layer, the issue i dont like to use much this method is that let some micro scratches on the metal, no big deal but i dont like it
I see in the pic that its over the metal, isnt corroding the metal, you can also repaint your frame, use premier paint and then the desired color, you can use a drill with a cable ball thing adapter (i dont know how is named in english) and you can strip all out paint and specially oxide parts and you will see that the oxide is over the metal layer, the issue i dont like to use much this method is that let some micro scratches on the metal, no big deal but i dont like it
#14
Totally screwed? Nope. You're just getting started!
As others have said, that rust is absolutely minimal, that part is not structural, and even if it were, you can see from your picture that it still have loads of wall thickness left.
It may be a bit jarring when you have a newish bike to see a patch of rust, but rust moves very slowly and it would take years and years of very abusive conditions to get to the point where the frame is compromised. If youa re using it as a winter bike in a place where the roads are salted then this might be 5 years of solid Winter use with no maintenance. Probably more than 5 years, but at least 5 years. If you live in a place where the roads are not salted, expect decades of use before rust becomes an issue. It is far more likely that every part of the bike wears out, or the bike is totalled by 'misadventure', before there is a problem with the frame due to rust.
If I were you I would sand the surface rust off as much as is easy to get at, then use nail polish to cover the bare patch, then remount your fenders to cover the nail polish.
As others have said, that rust is absolutely minimal, that part is not structural, and even if it were, you can see from your picture that it still have loads of wall thickness left.
It may be a bit jarring when you have a newish bike to see a patch of rust, but rust moves very slowly and it would take years and years of very abusive conditions to get to the point where the frame is compromised. If youa re using it as a winter bike in a place where the roads are salted then this might be 5 years of solid Winter use with no maintenance. Probably more than 5 years, but at least 5 years. If you live in a place where the roads are not salted, expect decades of use before rust becomes an issue. It is far more likely that every part of the bike wears out, or the bike is totalled by 'misadventure', before there is a problem with the frame due to rust.
If I were you I would sand the surface rust off as much as is easy to get at, then use nail polish to cover the bare patch, then remount your fenders to cover the nail polish.
#15
The dropped

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 1,055
From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1969 Raleigh Superbe, 1986 Miyata Nine : 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold), 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Totally screwed? Nope. You're just getting started!
As others have said, that rust is absolutely minimal, that part is not structural, and even if it were, you can see from your picture that it still have loads of wall thickness left.
It may be a bit jarring when you have a newish bike to see a patch of rust, but rust moves very slowly and it would take years and years of very abusive conditions to get to the point where the frame is compromised. If youa re using it as a winter bike in a place where the roads are salted then this might be 5 years of solid Winter use with no maintenance. Probably more than 5 years, but at least 5 years. If you live in a place where the roads are not salted, expect decades of use before rust becomes an issue. It is far more likely that every part of the bike wears out, or the bike is totalled by 'misadventure', before there is a problem with the frame due to rust.
If I were you I would sand the surface rust off as much as is easy to get at, then use nail polish to cover the bare patch, then remount your fenders to cover the nail polish.
As others have said, that rust is absolutely minimal, that part is not structural, and even if it were, you can see from your picture that it still have loads of wall thickness left.
It may be a bit jarring when you have a newish bike to see a patch of rust, but rust moves very slowly and it would take years and years of very abusive conditions to get to the point where the frame is compromised. If youa re using it as a winter bike in a place where the roads are salted then this might be 5 years of solid Winter use with no maintenance. Probably more than 5 years, but at least 5 years. If you live in a place where the roads are not salted, expect decades of use before rust becomes an issue. It is far more likely that every part of the bike wears out, or the bike is totalled by 'misadventure', before there is a problem with the frame due to rust.
If I were you I would sand the surface rust off as much as is easy to get at, then use nail polish to cover the bare patch, then remount your fenders to cover the nail polish.




