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Need an assist with my jockey/pulley wheel replacements

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Need an assist with my jockey/pulley wheel replacements

Old 04-18-20, 04:35 PM
  #1  
bikerbobbbb
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Need an assist with my jockey/pulley wheel replacements

Yeah, this goes back to 2016 or so. When I was building my rear wheel or had a question the chain popping out of the track around the derailleur, someone mentioned my pulley wheel were pretty pretty worn. So I got new ones. And I finally got around to putting them on. But I want to do it once and not screw things up now.

The questions:
Which is the guide/top pulley? Which is the bottom/tension pulley?
What is "outside," more so for the top/guide pulley?
Which pulley is which for the pieces I've actually got?
What about the inner pulley bushing (or whatever the metal ring that goes in the hole of the pulley is called)? I've got two different lengths.

On the bottom/tension pulley, the allen key hole is outside, to the right, of the entire bike, so that makes sense. But the guide/top pulley's allen wrench hole faces inward, toward the wheel. So is "outside" for the guide/top pulley, facing the wheel or facing the outside of the bike, like the bottom/tension pulley?

Here are some pics. I'll add in some details with visual inspecting the pulleys. The camera didn't pick everything up.









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Old 04-18-20, 04:43 PM
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Details....

The "double sided lettered pulley -- It's got text on both sides.
- Shimano on one side. W 8.6 on the side side.
- Shimano on the other side. >POW< on that same side. Also the recycling triangle symbol.
- This one has more triangular-shaped negative space from the rim to the hub.

The "single lettered pulley with a grove on the other side" -- Text is only on one side. The other side has a track/groove on it.
- Shimano on one side with arrows that must indicate the direction it spins (on the derailleur so that might get confusing).
- The other side has two circles that I thought were from manufacturing. One says... PE, I think. The other says... 10? I'm going to have to get a magnifying glass for those.
- This other side has a 7 on it.
- This other side has the triangle recycling symbol and >POW<
- There are only three holes between the rim and hub on this other pulley.


The pic above shows the A (outside, based on allen key hole? Or is that inner since it's toward the wheel/inner side of the bike?) and B, definitely outer side of the bike for the guide pulley.
C, inner/wheel side of the tension pulley.
D, outside of the bike, outside of the allen key hole on the tension pulley.


These look about the same thickness. I don't have my calipers here, but I can measure them tomorrow and get an exact measurement on the thickness between these two pulleys.


And then the metal rings that go in the center hole on these. One is longer than the other. Which is the top/guide piece? Which is the bottom/tension piece? I would guess the guide/top has the longer one since I think that is supposed to have a little more sloppiness to it so the chain goes on the cassette better. The tension/bottom pulley is just adding tension and would be fed a more exact chain position.
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Old 04-18-20, 04:46 PM
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I also dug out my red-colored tube of BLUE Loctite 242 (yes blue, 242, not the actual red 243, no idea why the reversed the color scheme like that). This pulley set came with the two pulleys, four out coverings, and the inner circle pieces. So I'd be reusing the screws. I plan on using the Loctite 242 blue on the screws like I've seen in videos.
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Old 04-18-20, 04:52 PM
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Lost my post....

Here's what I bought for pulleys, if it helps.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JNAH5GA/
Shimano Altus M280 7/8-Speed Rear Derailleur 13t Pulley Set


This is the grease I bought for my hubs, different project I haven't gotten to yet. Is this ok to use on the outer covers and inner, circular metal piece on these pulleys? I don't think any of this is water-tight, so it probably will only help for a little while.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014LC7HS0/
Park Tool HPG-1 High Performance Grease Blue, 4oz
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Old 04-18-20, 05:17 PM
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All that I can see are mostly blurry pictures of the pulleys without the rest of the parts needed to install them. If that is all that you bought, you are missing the bushings and end covers that you will need. The old ones from the old pulleys should not be reused
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Old 04-18-20, 05:40 PM
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bob,
Replace them one at a time and you will have little trouble getting the wheels in the right order and correct installation side where it belongs. HTH, MH
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Old 04-18-20, 06:19 PM
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The one with the directional rotation arrows is the tension pulley. The direction of rotation does matter. The guide pulley doesn't care which way it goes in.
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Old 04-19-20, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
The one with the directional rotation arrows is the tension pulley. The direction of rotation does matter. The guide pulley doesn't care which way it goes in.
Thanks.


Double text side cog is 8.53mm thick.
Single text side cog is 6.84mm thick, so it is slightly narrower. This is the one with the single groove bar on the side.... From the above post, it's the tension/bottom then, with the arrows.

So the guide/top is a little thicker. I guess if that has more play in it, it makes sense if it's the top/guide one then.

Inner rings are obvious which goes with which too.
7.06mm
8.63mm


Any thoughts on greasing these?
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Old 04-24-20, 05:10 AM
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3:30min in some details on the guide vs. tension This guide is narrower and has the metal ring.
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Old 04-24-20, 04:54 PM
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Mission accomplished. I think that took four years, although I just got around to ordering the pulleys this year.

I'm glad I watched the videos ahead of time. It wasn't bad, but it wasn't just a 15 minute, pop one off/swap out, pop the other off/swap out.

My bike must be filthy. And that cage derailleur is the part where the black putty bunk comes from. I knew I was going to clean that out, but it took longer.

I also made it more difficult by leaving the rear wheel on. But that also makes it easier to eyeball where the chain should go and move the bike around.

The old pulleys were gunked up enough I didn't bother cleaning them to compare. From what I found before I knew which went where.

Popped the bottom one off. Cleaned a bit. Started prepping the new one. Then I started cleaning.... Eventually I ended up taking the top pulley off too. When I loosen that or maybe it was the bottom one removed, the two sides of the cage splayed out like walking fingers. That actually helped when I was getting the top pulley, the new one, back in place. When I loosed the top pulley up a bit, it all came apart. It looked simple enough to keep in mind though. So I cleaned up the rest as much as I could for what did for cleaning. Probably used more grease than I needed. Then I definitely used more Loctite 242, the blue one. That squirted out more than I expected after the more-solid grease. After I got it cleaned up, it took awhile to get the top pulley back in place. There's barely any thread to attach the screw. I ended up holding the cage pieces and top pulley with my left hand, guiding the chain in place with the right, then feeling the inner cage piece in place (that's where it helped to have the cage sides "walked" apart so the tension wasn't also pulling as much), and then use the allen key on the screw. Eventually I found the hole and tightened it a bit. Then got the bottom one in place. Much easier. Then added another dab of Loctite 242 on the outside of the screw end and tighten them a little more, being careful not to overtighten.... You have to replace the two cage pieces if you do that? I noticed the top pulley screw was fairly easy to move last week when I checked. I'm glad I got both in place.

Took it for a ride. Everything shifted normally enough. Just cleaning the gunk out would probably improve things. It's got to be better than before. I didn't the bike was so bad. After the gunk around the cage, I noticed there's road gunk attached to the frame of the bike too that I should clean off sometime. I haven't cleaned my bike since... Last year sometime I think. I should do that, but I doubt I'll get around to it.


I took a couple pics. I'll post them later.
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Old 04-24-20, 05:34 PM
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Bob- Four years??? I assume you're kidding. This would have taken a day at your LBS (and maybe a few more for the special order in they're out of stock). Andy
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Old 04-25-20, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
Bob- Four years??? I assume you're kidding. This would have taken a day at your LBS (and maybe a few more for the special order in they're out of stock). Andy
Nope. Someone mentioned the pulley wheels were worn a few years ago. It wasn't the rear wheel builds. The chain came out of the cage there, so I posted a few pics. That's when someone said it was worn.


Took a couple pics. Not much to see, unless I screwed up on something. I did notice there's much more confidence in the chain not going to skip at all when I'm pushing the pedals harder, and a little when shifting too I think. I also lubed up the chain, so it's lube, free of gunk on the cage, and new pulley wheels.


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