29er spoking q
07-14-05, 07:41 AM
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legalize bikes
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29er spoking q
building a set of wheels for my friend, pauls comp WORD hubs, salsa delgado-x rims. hes over 6ft and weighs around 250lbs. im leaning towards straight gauge spokes, but i know some would say to use DB. what do YOU think?! 
07-14-05, 07:49 AM
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You don't say how many spokes / wheel you are using, but regardless I would go w/ 14g straight. 250# is "respectable" and the savings in DB spokes is negligible.
Breaking spokes sucks.
Breaking spokes sucks.
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07-14-05, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by legalize_it
building a set of wheels for my friend, pauls comp WORD hubs, salsa delgado-x rims. hes over 6ft and weighs around 250lbs. im leaning towards straight gauge spokes, but i know some would say to use DB. what do YOU think?!
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07-14-05, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by juicemouse
Butted spokes (preferably triple butted) will build a stronger wheel. Counterintuitive, but true. Go with 36 spokes/wheel and a 3x lacing pattern.
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07-14-05, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rmfnla
Very counterintuitive; please tell more.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
Also check out Jobst Brandt's infamous book, The Bicycle Wheel, from your local library if you get a chance (many counterintuitive ideas; one or two of which should be taken with a grain of salt).
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07-14-05, 09:26 PM
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i was aware of all the theory in brandts, schraners, and sheldons writings, but in practice ive had more luck with straight gauge for MTBs.... ive seen lots of DB spoke breakage, but mostly on OEM wheels with generic spokes.
07-15-05, 07:59 AM
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I used to prefer straight gauge spokes for mountain bikes on the theory that they suffer more physical abuse banging against rocks and the like. On the other hand, I can't remember ever finding a spoke that broke in the center, butted section. They always break either right at the elbow or at the top thread on the nipple end. If a smaller center section can reduce the stress on those areas by even a little bit, I'm all for it.
07-15-05, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by juicemouse
Sheldon has a good explanation here (scroll down to the "Spokes" section):
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
Also check out Jobst Brandt's infamous book, The Bicycle Wheel, from your local library if you get a chance (many counterintuitive ideas; one or two of which should be taken with a grain of salt).
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
Also check out Jobst Brandt's infamous book, The Bicycle Wheel, from your local library if you get a chance (many counterintuitive ideas; one or two of which should be taken with a grain of salt).
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07-15-05, 06:06 PM
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Spokes almost always break at the ends, where butted spokes are just as strong as straight-gauge. I vote for butted spokes, but it is not a strong preference. I do, however, vote for high spoke counts; all of my wheels have at least 32 spokes, and most have 36.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
07-15-05, 06:50 PM
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One other thing; butted spokes are nicer to build with; more flexible, easier to manipulate into position.
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