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Originally Posted by jadocs
(Post 21897459)
Unwrap it and red-do it so you have enough material to stuff in the ends. Whenever I start a wrap, I always check to see what it looks like before I continue on. One way to check is to start a wraps and stick the bar end plug in before you continue. That way if it looks weird, you can redo it until it looks right. Putting the plug in before your continue will also help those who feel like they need tape to hold it while they wrap.
For the other idea of just wrapping flush, with no tuck, I thought typical recommendation was just to run a bit double-sided tape at the end of the bar before beginning, especially if you're going to trim off excess overhang. |
I start with the tape angled to progress up the bar, with about half the width overhanging the end. Wrap clockwise on the right and counterclockwise on the left. No trimming needed. Only wrap a few turns before tucking the tape in and placing the plug. No need to pull very tight either. A small screwdriver might help push the tape in around the plug, when it's half way in. If tape doesn't look neat, try again. I had to relearn after 8 years off the bike.
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I never 'tuck' the tape in the end of the bar. Mainly I just don't like the way it looks. I cut a taper off the side that will get wrapped over, NOT the end of the bar. Looks much better this way. No need for tape at the end to hold it, just wrap over itself. I never use the short piece for the shifter clamp either, it's just not needed. I do the 'figure 8' instead.
https://i.imgur.com/4sGJjO8l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3ytHvepl.jpg |
Those of you who start at the ends- don't you end up having to put ugly tape on the top of the bar?
I always start at the top and finish at the bottom, and hammer in the end cap to hold the tape in, just as the manufacturer intended. No need for any tape. |
If you start at the top the edges of the tape can get rolled up from your hands pushing down...common knowledge. That's why 99% of the time tape is put on from the bottom up. The only tape I've ever done like you do it is Benotto.
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
(Post 21899204)
If you start at the top the edges of the tape can get rolled up from your hands pushing down...common knowledge.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f66fd60a6a.jpg |
Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
(Post 21899493)
Pointed taken. But if you start at the bottom, don't you have to finish at the top with ugly electrical tape?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f66fd60a6a.jpg |
I only buy pretty electrical tape.
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The provided bar end plugs won't work unless the tape is pushed in to the end, to reduce the ID. Obviously, that's what the manufacturer expects. Mine always come out looking tidy.
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
(Post 21899493)
Pointed taken. But if you start at the bottom, don't you have to finish at the top with ugly electrical tape?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f66fd60a6a.jpg |
Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 21897436)
As always, follow the manufacturer's directions when installing. Doesn't Lizard Skins tape include a warning not to stretch their tape when installing? That would be your first clue.
OP's tape is EVA backed PU tape, and similar to Supacaz Sticky Kush tape. Stretching for install is advised. Calvin's advice here is to take a piece of tape before wrapping and pulling on it to see how much stretch it can take before installing, since cheaper EVA/cork tapes will tear before EVA/PU tapes will. #IsuckAtBarTape |
Originally Posted by wgscott
(Post 21900126)
I did it with Trek/Bontrager $35 Velvetak bar tape. I emitted some foul verbiage, and then repaired it with some electrical tape, and suffered with it for about a year. i am about to replace it with $40 Lizard Skins. This reminds me not to repeat the mistake.
#IsuckAtBarTape |
Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 21900129)
Did what?
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 21900129)
Did what?
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2d87723bf6.jpg The Lizard skins tape says not to stretch it because it damages the surface and then it wears out really quickly. |
Having looked at my other thread, where I was complaining I couldn't wrap the bars, this more recent wrap is significantly worse.
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Originally Posted by wgscott
(Post 21900135)
Stretched it until it went <<snap>>,
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2d87723bf6.jpg The Lizard skins tape says not to stretch it because it damages the surface and then it wears out really quickly. |
Originally Posted by cxwrench
(Post 21900148)
It also breaks easier than most other tape. Ask me how I know.
At least I had the luxury of being able to suck it up and put a piece of tape on it. I think I now realize that, as with saddles, too much cushiness is not a good thing. It also doesn't stay in place very well, but at least I can re-wrap it. |
finish that electrical tape off with some world champion tape.
this will add 1.257 mph to your average speed. why? because every time you look at that cool tape you will think you are a world champion. hurry, only 1 left! > https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3ea84187e8.png |
When wrapping handlebars I keep a small metal clamp handy, like the one pictured below. Sometimes I use it to hold the tape in place if I am interrupted during the middle of doing the job. Whether it is to answer the phone, reach for the electrical tape, fetch the scissors or any other reason, this way I use the clamp to keep some pressure on the tape to keep it in place for the time I have to pause the job.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ca3ab95e4d.jpg |
^Always a good idea^ I do this in the shop for just those reasons, whenever I start taping a bar I grab a Park pin spanner to use as a clamp if I'm interrupted.
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I use silicone bar tape. These have no adhesive backing and are totally reusable if you don't tape it down with electrical tape. That's why I wrap from the top down. That way I can do the whole job without the use of any electrical tape and I can undo it and redo it as many times as I want.
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
(Post 21900817)
I use silicone bar tape. These have no adhesive backing and are totally reusable if you don't tape it down with electrical tape.
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
(Post 21900999)
I'm curious, it's impossible to remove electrical tape from silicone bar tape? Otherwise the bar tape would be reusable going from bottom to top?
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 21901027)
Honestly, the only silicone tape I'm aware of is self-fusing. I would expect that to go the same way shellacked cotton tape goes: cut off with a knife.
https://www.arundelbike.com/product/synth-gecko/ |
Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 21901027)
Honestly, the only silicone tape I'm aware of is self-fusing. I would expect that to go the same way shellacked cotton tape goes: cut off with a knife.
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