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Help with bar tape - end plug hell

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Old 01-26-21 | 05:22 AM
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Help with bar tape - end plug hell

Like a lot of you, I try to do my own home brew maintenance and try to do my best.

I'm failing miserably.

How do you get the bartape to sit nicely within the bar plug? I keep getting an ugly tab that sticks out..


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Old 01-26-21 | 07:06 AM
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^ this. I actually trim an angled piece from the beginning end, so that the first wrap starts at ~5/16" and gets wider for about 3" until it is full width. That way, there's no thickness resulting from the initial turn around the bar end. The plug fits flush against the trimmed edge of the tape.
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Old 01-26-21 | 09:09 AM
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I hadn't wrapped a bar in twenty years so and If you don't do it often you lose your skill for doing it well and the little do's and don't you learn with experience. This video gave some good thoughts and considerations when I needed to wrap the bars for my Paramount back circa 2016, this was the most helpful vid for me.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...tion-drop-bars

Little long, sometimes he goes off on tangents I don't care about, but in general the most all around informative at the time that I found. The wrap I put on my Paramount back then still looks good.
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Old 01-26-21 | 09:16 AM
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I find the best tool is a large rubber mallet, sometimes it takes a few tries, just stuff the excess into the bar, if it’s a lot, I’ll trim it a bit.
Better quality plugs help too, I throw away, the ones that come with the tape, I use the Cinelli ones, but others work well too.
Both pics are 3mm padded tape installations.
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Old 01-26-21 | 09:24 AM
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I start at the end of the bar, cutting the end of the tape at an angle. wrap so the edge of the tape is flush with the end of the bar, no tucking needed. I use aluminum plugs with an expanding wedge instead of the press-in plastic bits.
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Old 01-26-21 | 12:21 PM
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wrap/

tried more overhang material? maybe 1/4" more will solve the issue then bring out the rubber mallet.
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Old 01-26-21 | 12:28 PM
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I do at least one full wrap with the tape half overhanging the end of the bar. This gives me more tape to tuck inside the bar, and I can tuck all the way around.
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Old 01-26-21 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
With thicker bar tape, I prefer to wrap it flush with the end rather than try to tuck it. The lip on the cap covers the bare end of the bar. All nice and tidy, no unsightly bulge.
Originally Posted by Phil_gretz
^ this. I actually trim an angled piece from the beginning end, so that the first wrap starts at ~5/16" and gets wider for about 3" until it is full width. That way, there's no thickness resulting from the initial turn around the bar end. The plug fits flush against the trimmed edge of the tape.
I'm trying to envision this. Do you need to use a small piece of adhesive tape to attach the end to the bar? Or do you just run the first wrap tightly around itself?
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Old 01-26-21 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SapInMyBlood
Like a lot of you, I try to do my own home brew maintenance and try to do my best.

I'm failing miserably.

How do you get the bartape to sit nicely within the bar plug? I keep getting an ugly tab that sticks out..


I start the wrap with a little overlap and then use a blade to trim it flush with the bar end. Way cleaner and no trying to stuff bar tape into the hole.
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Old 01-26-21 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
I'm trying to envision this. Do you need to use a small piece of adhesive tape to attach the end to the bar? Or do you just run the first wrap tightly around itself?
Since you can't stuff the tape in when using bar ends, I do it this way and try to get that first wrap really tight on the inside of the bar, past the cable housing. It's come loose on me anywhere else.
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Old 01-26-21 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
I'm trying to envision this. Do you need to use a small piece of adhesive tape to attach the end to the bar? Or do you just run the first wrap tightly around itself?
No. I hold the thinnest end of the taper at about the 6:00 position beneath the bar end, and then begin wrapping over the outside and then inboard, with the standard overlap. If the taper was trimmed correctly, this gives an even overlap without bunching at the bar end. It sounds more complicated than it really is. I wish that I had taken photos. I've done this a hundred times or more...
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Old 01-26-21 | 04:18 PM
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I use carpet tape to hold the end until the bar is wrapped. I then cut it square and use this type of plug. Problem solved.

Amazon.com : Domain Cycling Aluminum Bike Handlebar Bar End Plugs, Expanding Adjustable Locking Caps, Road Bicycle Grip Mountain BMX MTB Fixie (Black) : Sports & Outdoors
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Old 01-26-21 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by davidad
I use carpet tape to hold the end until the bar is wrapped. I then cut it square and use this type of plug. Problem solved.

Amazon.com : Domain Cycling Aluminum Bike Handlebar Bar End Plugs, Expanding Adjustable Locking Caps, Road Bicycle Grip Mountain BMX MTB Fixie (Black) : Sports & Outdoors
Are you wrapping backwards...I mean from the top down to the drops?
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Old 01-26-21 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
Are you wrapping backwards...I mean from the top down to the drops?
I wrap from the bottom up as per the Park method.
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Old 01-26-21 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by davidad
I wrap from the bottom up as per the Park method.
What do you need the tape for then?
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Old 01-26-21 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by '02 nrs
tried more overhang material? maybe 1/4" more will solve the issue then bring out the rubber mallet.
+1, and quite obvious that the tape was/is too short, I have never seen the need to cut the tape and the plug end.
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Old 01-26-21 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
What do you need the tape for then?
It holds the handle bar tape in place until I am finished. I then cut the excess flush with the bar end and install the plugs. I don't have fancy ones I use old fashion rubber ones.
Similar to these. Handlebar Plugs - Nitto, Silver – Rivendell Bicycle Works (rivbike.com)
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Old 01-26-21 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by davidad
It holds the handle bar tape in place until I am finished. I then cut the excess flush with the bar end and install the plugs. I don't have fancy ones I use old fashion rubber ones.
Similar to these. Handlebar Plugs - Nitto, Silver – Rivendell Bicycle Works (rivbike.com)
I still don't see the need for any tape. I cut the taper across the tape so the 'finished' (non cut) edge is at the end of the bar, it looks way better this way. As soon as you start wrapping the tape holds itself, so no tape. Been doing it like this for over 20 years. I can't see how cutting the tape after wrapping looks good at all.
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Old 01-26-21 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
I'm trying to envision this. Do you need to use a small piece of adhesive tape to attach the end to the bar? Or do you just run the first wrap tightly around itself?
Never bothered cutting a taper in the tape to start, just hold the end at 6 o'clock and wrap from there which does result in a small bulge but I like having it at the end and envision it being useful should my hand slip back even though that's never happened. Taping down the start isn't something I've ever needed to do with my bikes, I did do it for the 30 track bikes I did that are all ridden by kids, turns out when they get dropped a lot they start unraveling.
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Old 01-27-21 | 05:42 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys! It sounds like I'll employ an exacto knife and trim it down to shape. Currently, I'm not envisioning any way that the little flap wouldn't occur while it's folded inside. No matter what there will be a crossover from the folded bit to the outside wrap

Will report back in a bit!
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Old 01-27-21 | 08:32 AM
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You've probably already cut it, but Calvin Jones' demo in wrapping bars reminds me to stretch the hell out of the tape at the end of the bar, so that it puckers into the hole. Stretch and wrap as tight as you can there, even if you won't be wrapping the rest of the bars with white-knuckle force.
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Old 01-27-21 | 09:01 AM
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I wrap the tape flush and use Nitto plugs which clamp in place.

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Old 01-27-21 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
You've probably already cut it, but Calvin Jones' demo in wrapping bars reminds me to stretch the hell out of the tape at the end of the bar, so that it puckers into the hole. Stretch and wrap as tight as you can there, even if you won't be wrapping the rest of the bars with white-knuckle force.
Don't do that with DSP Lizard Skins and some other tapes...you'll instantly turn a $40.00 job into an $80.00 job.
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Old 01-27-21 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
Don't do that with DSP Lizard Skins and some other tapes...you'll instantly turn a $40.00 job into an $80.00 job.
As always, follow the manufacturer's directions when installing. Doesn't Lizard Skins tape include a warning not to stretch their tape when installing? That would be your first clue.

OP's tape is EVA backed PU tape, and similar to Supacaz Sticky Kush tape. Stretching for install is advised. Calvin's advice here is to take a piece of tape before wrapping and pulling on it to see how much stretch it can take before installing, since cheaper EVA/cork tapes will tear before EVA/PU tapes will.
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Old 01-27-21 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by SapInMyBlood
Thanks for all the help guys! It sounds like I'll employ an exacto knife and trim it down to shape. Currently, I'm not envisioning any way that the little flap wouldn't occur while it's folded inside. No matter what there will be a crossover from the folded bit to the outside wrap

Will report back in a bit!
Unwrap it and red-do it so you have enough material to stuff in the ends. Whenever I start a wrap, I always check to see what it looks like before I continue on. One way to check is to start a wraps and stick the bar end plug in before you continue. That way if it looks weird, you can redo it until it looks right. Putting the plug in before your continue will also help those who feel like they need tape to hold it while they wrap.
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