Power meter compatible with FSA
#1
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Power meter compatible with FSA
I am in the market for a reasonably priced power meter.
I was looking into pedal based ones but all seems to be clipless pedals, I want to be able to ride with normal shoes.
Then I began looking into the ones that are placed on the left crank arms like stages, avio. The Shimano 105 or ultegra versions are ok around $300 however FSA specific one is ~$500. So I was wondering if I can sway FSA crank arm(see the picture) with a shimano 105 or Ultegra left crank arm (Stages)?
I was looking into pedal based ones but all seems to be clipless pedals, I want to be able to ride with normal shoes.
Then I began looking into the ones that are placed on the left crank arms like stages, avio. The Shimano 105 or ultegra versions are ok around $300 however FSA specific one is ~$500. So I was wondering if I can sway FSA crank arm(see the picture) with a shimano 105 or Ultegra left crank arm (Stages)?
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I think if you send them your crank-arm, they will use that for the install so it will be around $325.
https://stagescycling.com/us/factory-install/
https://stagescycling.com/us/factory-install/
#3
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I think if you send them your crank-arm, they will use that for the install so it will be around $325.
https://stagescycling.com/us/factory-install/
https://stagescycling.com/us/factory-install/
So is FSA crank arm can be exchanged with a shimano 105 or ultegra crank arm ?
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Not even remotely possible. The non-drive crank arm interface with the spindle on all modern Shimano Hollowtech II cranks is completely different than how any FSA crankset interfaces with their non-drive arm.
#5
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Also I was looking at quarq dzero dub, can it be installed without any need for new crankarms etc.?
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I don't think there is any crank arm other than one made by FSA that will fit that crank. You're saying, "Well, wait, why can I get a different crank arm to from Stages or 4iii to fit my crank if it was a Shimano crank?" Easy, the crank arm you buy from those companies are Shimano crank arms, with the pwoermeter bits installed to it. If, or when, Stages does the same thing for your FSA crank, then you could also buy a FSA crank arm. That being said, I am not highly familiar with FSA cranks, but, If I am not mistaken they have a couple fo different specifications for how they assemble their cranks, so you need to be sure if you do find an arm based PM, that the arm you can purchase is compatible with your crank....someone familiar with FSA could answer those questions if/when a arm based solution is presented.
Okay, Quarq DZero Dub...funny you ask about this. I just put one on my SL7 about a month ago. Actually, I put on a DFour, a DZero that accepts 4-bolt 110BCD Shimano Dura Ace 9100 rings (and Ultegra 8000, though the spider is visually matched for the DA9100). That spider (DZero or DFour) ONLY mates to a DUB crank. Therefore, if you were to go that route, you will need a new crank, and a new Bottom Bracket (since DUB is a BB standard). DUB uses a different diameter crank spindle than your current crank.
Let me ask this, and I am not trying to be a jerk, if you are so intent on having a PM why are you opposed to using a clipless pedal based solution - which will work immediately without any kind of crank (and possibly BB) replacement (which is the only way you're get to a PM with flat pedals)?
Okay, Quarq DZero Dub...funny you ask about this. I just put one on my SL7 about a month ago. Actually, I put on a DFour, a DZero that accepts 4-bolt 110BCD Shimano Dura Ace 9100 rings (and Ultegra 8000, though the spider is visually matched for the DA9100). That spider (DZero or DFour) ONLY mates to a DUB crank. Therefore, if you were to go that route, you will need a new crank, and a new Bottom Bracket (since DUB is a BB standard). DUB uses a different diameter crank spindle than your current crank.
Let me ask this, and I am not trying to be a jerk, if you are so intent on having a PM why are you opposed to using a clipless pedal based solution - which will work immediately without any kind of crank (and possibly BB) replacement (which is the only way you're get to a PM with flat pedals)?
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I do not quite understand why anyone would worry about power metering if you are not going to be using clip on pedals, which are much more efficient. Please educate
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I am curious about using flat pedals but wanting a power meter. If you are really desperate just swap to a different crankset or do a Powertap hub but honestly I would rather have the clipless pedals if I am looking for performance gains and I can combine the two with power meter pedals.
#9
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...
Let me ask this, and I am not trying to be a jerk, if you are so intent on having a PM why are you opposed to using a clipless pedal based solution - which will work immediately without any kind of crank (and possibly BB) replacement (which is the only way you're get to a PM with flat pedals)?
Let me ask this, and I am not trying to be a jerk, if you are so intent on having a PM why are you opposed to using a clipless pedal based solution - which will work immediately without any kind of crank (and possibly BB) replacement (which is the only way you're get to a PM with flat pedals)?
And no offense taken, the simple reason is that I also ride my bike to commute too and want to see my power output at least on the way back. I can adjust my exercise level much better with a power meter however clipless shoes are not practical when I go to work.
I may try Avio and install it myself. Or maybe a clipless to flat pedal adapter.
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Thank you for the information.
And no offense taken, the simple reason is that I also ride my bike to commute too and want to see my power output at least on the way back. I can adjust my exercise level much better with a power meter however clipless shoes are not practical when I go to work.
I may try Avio and install it myself. Or maybe a clipless to flat pedal adapter.
And no offense taken, the simple reason is that I also ride my bike to commute too and want to see my power output at least on the way back. I can adjust my exercise level much better with a power meter however clipless shoes are not practical when I go to work.
I may try Avio and install it myself. Or maybe a clipless to flat pedal adapter.
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Leaving a pair of shoes at work is a great option.
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Or buy cleat covers, carry them with you, and when you get to work, put them over the cleats, and your shoes are walkable for short distances. I use Shimano pedals, on my road bike, and when I commute on it, this is what I do to enable walking. Cleat covers are inexpensive.
#13
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Or buy cleat covers, carry them with you, and when you get to work, put them over the cleats, and your shoes are walkable for short distances. I use Shimano pedals, on my road bike, and when I commute on it, this is what I do to enable walking. Cleat covers are inexpensive.
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Cleat covers allow you to walk easily (though cleats are walkable to some extent anyhow) while also protecting the rubberized/plastic tips that protect the engagement points of a road pedal. These look promising, based on Favero statement: "Compatible cleats: Original LOOK Kéo and Favero cleats (red and black)."
Other option...have you considered just swapping pedals between rides? Keep a set of large platform flat pedals, like the Shimano PD-EF205, for your commutes, and put the power meter pedals on for the workouts. Regardless what you may read, pedals do not have to be torqued down tightly to prevent coming loose; they are threaded (L/R) so that pedaling forward continually keeps pressure on the threads and prevents them from "backing out." And the Favero pedals, and Garmin Vectors (3rd gen), don't require a specific torque when installing, just thread them onto the crank arm and snug them up, calibrate, and go.
Note, if you are going to be collecting power data on every ride, workouts and commutes, and on one type (the commutes) you are on "flat" pedals...DO NOT COMPARE THE DATA. It won't be applicable. Without a positive connection to the pedal, the power data will be different.
Other option...have you considered just swapping pedals between rides? Keep a set of large platform flat pedals, like the Shimano PD-EF205, for your commutes, and put the power meter pedals on for the workouts. Regardless what you may read, pedals do not have to be torqued down tightly to prevent coming loose; they are threaded (L/R) so that pedaling forward continually keeps pressure on the threads and prevents them from "backing out." And the Favero pedals, and Garmin Vectors (3rd gen), don't require a specific torque when installing, just thread them onto the crank arm and snug them up, calibrate, and go.
Note, if you are going to be collecting power data on every ride, workouts and commutes, and on one type (the commutes) you are on "flat" pedals...DO NOT COMPARE THE DATA. It won't be applicable. Without a positive connection to the pedal, the power data will be different.