I just got a saddle from the LBS for a demo and wasn't sure what part of the saddle you use to get it level. I know you level the saddle to the top tube, so is it the rails of the saddle or put a level across the top off the saddle itself?

It's all about your fit. Assuming you're of the masculine persuasion, you may even want to get the horn of the saddle a little up. (I know, it's a little counter-intuitive.) The important thing is that you should be able to sit comfortably on it without sliding forward or backward if you take your hands off the bars. This will be more or less level across the top of the saddle, the rail orientation is unimportant.

Here's one of mine.

A level saddle is a good starting point. Generally, you place a level on the saddle from the rear to the front along the center and level it that way. A level saddle provides a nice compromise for upper body support and a platform to pedal off of.

You will also no doubt get responses from the "level saddles are evil" cult. Cheers

I like mine a little nose-down....

Very much to individual taste, this adjustment. Slightly nose-down may be more comfortable for some, but just a little more will make you feel like you're sliding down the saddle all the time.

I hope this is the right place for this question. I just bought a Brooks B67 and I am wondering if there is a rule of thumb for placing the saddles rails where they give the seat the most support? In other words should the saddle be placed so the rails are in the dead center of the seat post bracket? Does it make any difference if you move ot forward or back? Do you still get the same support? Thanks.

You can slide it as far as you like in either direction, up to the point that the curved portion of the rail contacts the clamping surfaces. If you clamp part of the curve, you could damage the clamp and the rail.

Fore/aft saddle position is important to bike fit. If you're unsure of where to put it, you can Google the subject ("bike fit"), or start here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html

Some saddles like the Brooks leather saddles change shape a bit when you sit on them so think "level when you are sitting on it". My brooks are all tilted up a little bit. Actually it's the amount of pressure on your hands that tells you when the saddle is set up right.

A "Rule of thumb (bum?)" that I have used when changing saddles is that the saddle should be set back far enough so that you can ride without your hands. If the saddle is too far forward it upsets the fore-aft balance of the bike and it's difficult to take your hands off for more than a couple of seconds. The tilt on the saddle will affect this too, but once you know "how level" a particular saddle should be, you can concentrate on the bigger issue of the fore-aft position of the saddle.

Thanks for the replies. I went to Sheldon's site as well as Rivendell. So I tried a few things including more aft positiong and a slight tilt downward according to the recommendations. Still, I find myself sitting on the very rear edge of the saddle. I am putting a lot of wieght on my hands and my knees are no longer in a decent position over the pedals.

I should mention that I am riding a Raleigh Technium road bike with upright handlebars. I think the frame geometry just isn't right for this saddle. Any thoughts on this?? Thanks again.

I found that tilting the nose down just below level helps to avoid numbness in man region, but too far and you get the sliding board effect. Best bet is to pick what you think is decent and ride for a bit, adjust, then ride some more. If you can't get a comfortable position then the saddle isn't for you.

How do you adjust the tilt? I have a Terry Fly saddle and was just trying to both level the saddle a bit and move is forward 1 CM and can not figure out how to do it. It seems that as the seat moves forward the tilt goes up. Sorry for such a stupid question, but I read Sheldon Browns article and still can't figure this out. I appreciate your help!!

Disregard that last question. What I did not realize was that the bottom portion of the seat bracket was stuck to the seat post. I thought it was supposed to be fixed to the post, but obviously not. The old rubber mallett helped me solve the problem. Not much of a wrench!!