Wrong BB axle length...
#1
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Wrong BB axle length...
So, after putting the drivetrain on my new bike together today, I realised that the BB axle is too short.
The inner ring (on a triple) is so far in that it's in line with the inner plate of the front derailer cage!
Current axle length is 113 mm.
Should I get a 118 mm one, or maybe something longer still, if that even exists...?
Until I get a new one, I will have to stay out of the smallest chainring, I guess...
The inner ring (on a triple) is so far in that it's in line with the inner plate of the front derailer cage!
Current axle length is 113 mm.
Should I get a 118 mm one, or maybe something longer still, if that even exists...?
Until I get a new one, I will have to stay out of the smallest chainring, I guess...
#3
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,208
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
No idea. Doesn't say, either on Shimano's website or on the online store's website, where I ordered from.
It came in a sealed plastic bag with no "manual" or anything like that.
How was I supposed to find out?
I asked in here before, but didn't get much of a reply...
It came in a sealed plastic bag with no "manual" or anything like that.
How was I supposed to find out?
I asked in here before, but didn't get much of a reply...
#4
Gone, but not forgotten


Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Newtonville, Massachusetts
Bikes: See: https://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
Originally Posted by CdCf
So, after putting the drivetrain on my new bike together today, I realised that the BB axle is too short.
The inner ring (on a triple) is so far in that it's in line with the inner plate of the front derailer cage!
Current axle length is 113 mm.
Should I get a 118 mm one, or maybe something longer still, if that even exists...?
(
The inner ring (on a triple) is so far in that it's in line with the inner plate of the front derailer cage!
Current axle length is 113 mm.
Should I get a 118 mm one, or maybe something longer still, if that even exists...?
(
I have a couple of Web pages that should help you get this sorted out:
https://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize
https://sheldonbrown.com/chainline
Sheldon "Numbers" Brown
Code:
+-------------------------------------------------+ | Men and nations behave wisely once they | | have exhausted all the other alternatives. | | -- Abba Eban | +-------------------------------------------------+
#5
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,208
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Yeah, forgot that.
Shimano FC-M540 crankset - it's a triple. In this case a 26-36-48 (for the time being...).
The only BB sizes available to me are 113 and 118.
(Shimano ES71)
So, will those extra 5 mm be all on the drive side, or just half of it?
(Edited the crankset name - forgot the "M"...)
Shimano FC-M540 crankset - it's a triple. In this case a 26-36-48 (for the time being...).
The only BB sizes available to me are 113 and 118.
(Shimano ES71)
So, will those extra 5 mm be all on the drive side, or just half of it?
(Edited the crankset name - forgot the "M"...)
Last edited by CdCf; 07-18-05 at 04:27 PM.
#6
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Hmm, this is strange...
I just found the same crankset on a Swedish online store.
There, they recommend using it with a 113 mm axle...!
I just found the same crankset on a Swedish online store.
There, they recommend using it with a 113 mm axle...!
#7
Originally Posted by CdCf
Hmm, this is strange...
I just found the same crankset on a Swedish online store.
There, they recommend using it with a 113 mm axle...!
I just found the same crankset on a Swedish online store.
There, they recommend using it with a 113 mm axle...!
#8
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,208
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Tube dia is 28.6 mm (or 1 1/8 in).
#9
Originally Posted by CdCf
So, after putting the drivetrain on my new bike together today, I realised that the BB axle is too short.
The inner ring (on a triple) is so far in that it's in line with the inner plate of the front derailer cage!
The inner ring (on a triple) is so far in that it's in line with the inner plate of the front derailer cage!
#10
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,208
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Not that I can see...
The limit screws are all the way out.
I even tried to see if rotating the entire cage inwards (clockwise seen from above) helped, but not even that allowed the chain to run without significant rubbing.
The only thing I can think of that could help a little bit more, is to use a thinner spacer in the derailer clamp. Would gain 3-4 mm. Could lose stability and function...
So, will the extra 5 mm of axle (113 -> 118) be all on the drive side?
The limit screws are all the way out.
I even tried to see if rotating the entire cage inwards (clockwise seen from above) helped, but not even that allowed the chain to run without significant rubbing.
The only thing I can think of that could help a little bit more, is to use a thinner spacer in the derailer clamp. Would gain 3-4 mm. Could lose stability and function...
So, will the extra 5 mm of axle (113 -> 118) be all on the drive side?
#11
JRA...

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 839
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From: philly
Bikes: trek 520 & 736, DeRosa Professional, Fuji Professional, Raleigh International 3-speed, Saronni (any info people?), Humber 3-speed, Raleigh Sports, Carlton Grand Prix coming soon!
Originally Posted by CdCf
The only thing I can think of that could help a little bit more, is to use a thinner spacer in the derailer clamp. Would gain 3-4 mm. Could lose stability and function...
#12
Originally Posted by dafydd
if i'm reading this right, you've probably effectively got an 31.8 seat tube and should use a 118 BB. or buy a 28.6 deraileur.
Last edited by sydney; 07-18-05 at 08:14 PM.
#13
JRA...

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 839
Likes: 1
From: philly
Bikes: trek 520 & 736, DeRosa Professional, Fuji Professional, Raleigh International 3-speed, Saronni (any info people?), Humber 3-speed, Raleigh Sports, Carlton Grand Prix coming soon!
that's kind of what i was getting at... i said effective, not actual
#15
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
I've tried to find this info using Google and using this forum's search function, but no luck.
I really need a definitive answer to whether the extra 5 mm will be all on the drive side or half on each side for 113 vs 118 mm.
Should I maybe get the (LX) ES51 68-121 instead?
It seems as if the chainline is 42-44 mm as it is now (from tube centre to centre of middle ring).
I really need a definitive answer to whether the extra 5 mm will be all on the drive side or half on each side for 113 vs 118 mm.
Should I maybe get the (LX) ES51 68-121 instead?
It seems as if the chainline is 42-44 mm as it is now (from tube centre to centre of middle ring).
#16
Originally Posted by CdCf
I've tried to find this info using Google and using this forum's search function, but no luck.
I really need a definitive answer to whether the extra 5 mm will be all on the drive side or half on each side for 113 vs 118 mm.
Should I maybe get the (LX) ES51 68-121 instead?
It seems as if the chainline is 42-44 mm as it is now (from tube centre to centre of middle ring).
I really need a definitive answer to whether the extra 5 mm will be all on the drive side or half on each side for 113 vs 118 mm.
Should I maybe get the (LX) ES51 68-121 instead?
It seems as if the chainline is 42-44 mm as it is now (from tube centre to centre of middle ring).
This is a 7-8-9s frame with 135mm dropout spacing, right?
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#17
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Yeah, 135 mm spacing.
I do know it's 113 mm. That's what I ordered. If it had been the wrong length, it'd been a 118 mm - the only other size.
Guess I'll have to downgrade to an LX BB then...
I do know it's 113 mm. That's what I ordered. If it had been the wrong length, it'd been a 118 mm - the only other size.
Guess I'll have to downgrade to an LX BB then...
#18
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Measured chainline properly now.
It's 42.5-43 mm.
With a 121 mm axle, it should come to 46.5-47 mm, given a symmetrical axle.
That's still a bit short of the 47.5-50 mm recommendation on Sheldon's site.
By the way, the frame is a Surly LHT.
It's 42.5-43 mm.
With a 121 mm axle, it should come to 46.5-47 mm, given a symmetrical axle.
That's still a bit short of the 47.5-50 mm recommendation on Sheldon's site.
By the way, the frame is a Surly LHT.
#19
Originally Posted by CdCf
Measured chainline properly now.
It's 42.5-43 mm.
With a 121 mm axle, it should come to 46.5-47 mm, given a symmetrical axle.
That's still a bit short of the 47.5-50 mm recommendation on Sheldon's site.
By the way, the frame is a Surly LHT.
It's 42.5-43 mm.
With a 121 mm axle, it should come to 46.5-47 mm, given a symmetrical axle.
That's still a bit short of the 47.5-50 mm recommendation on Sheldon's site.
By the way, the frame is a Surly LHT.
__________________
It is my belief that every person in this world has something to teach, and everything to learn.
In memory of Jim Price (aka. sydney) ...
It is my belief that every person in this world has something to teach, and everything to learn.
In memory of Jim Price (aka. sydney) ...
#20
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,208
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
They are pretty cheap, all right. The ES51 costs UK£17 (US$30).
Will order it tomorrow!
Will order it tomorrow!
#21
Originally Posted by CdCf
Hmm, this is strange...
I just found the same crankset on a Swedish online store.
There, they recommend using it with a 113 mm axle...!
I just found the same crankset on a Swedish online store.
There, they recommend using it with a 113 mm axle...!
#22
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
But even 118 mm wouldn't bring the chainline up to the 47.5 mm recommended.
I wouldn't be surprised if I need a 126 mm at the end of the day!
I wouldn't be surprised if I need a 126 mm at the end of the day!
#23
kipuka explorer

Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Hilo Town, East Hawai'i
Bikes: 1994 Trek 820, 2004 Fuji Absolute, 2005 Jamis Nova, 1977 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36
I just went through the BB size fiddling too. How far from the centerline is the middle cog on your rear cassette, and what's the difference in chainline between the middle cog and middle chainring? I had the opposite problem, starting out with about 46mm in back and 52mm in front, so I had to find the smallest BB possible. I ended up with 46mm in the rear and 49mm in the front and things seem to be working fine so far. Maybe 46-47mm will work fine for you. There's only one way to find out...
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-=- '05 Jamis Nova -=- '04 Fuji Absolute -=- '94 Trek 820 -=- '77 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36 -=-
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#24
Thread Starter
Videre non videri
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
The rear chainline is a secondary concern.
My primary goal is to make the inner chain ring come inside the front derailer range...
The rear cassette is a Shimano 11-34 with 9 cogs. I would guess chainline is the same for all similar cassette/rear hub combos.
My primary goal is to make the inner chain ring come inside the front derailer range...

The rear cassette is a Shimano 11-34 with 9 cogs. I would guess chainline is the same for all similar cassette/rear hub combos.
#25
kipuka explorer

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,297
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From: Hilo Town, East Hawai'i
Bikes: 1994 Trek 820, 2004 Fuji Absolute, 2005 Jamis Nova, 1977 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36
Originally Posted by CdCf
My primary goal is to make the inner chain ring come inside the front derailer range... 

__________________
--
-=- '05 Jamis Nova -=- '04 Fuji Absolute -=- '94 Trek 820 -=- '77 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36 -=-
Friends don't let friends use brifters.
--
-=- '05 Jamis Nova -=- '04 Fuji Absolute -=- '94 Trek 820 -=- '77 Schwinn Scrambler 36/36 -=-
Friends don't let friends use brifters.




