1” threadless question
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 2,051
From: Sussex County, Delaware
Threadless one inch stems are not easy to acquire. What is available is pretty limited in choices. So probably, 1 1/8 inch stem is the easiest way to go with the most choices. How long is the steerer tube and is there enough length for the stem and some spacers?
#3
With a mighty wind

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 3,427
Likes: 1,481
I am not sure what you're asking.
Here are a few things to know though.
A 1 1/8 stem with a shim is by far your best bet. For most models, it's your only option.
1" spacers are available on Amazon and eBay if you look. It's easy to forget the fine print and have 1 1/8 sent instead. Be detailed in reading product descriptions.
You can raise your handlebars three ways with a threadless stem.
1. Get a new stem with a higher angle. Adjustable is even available. Typically not a great aesthetic choice but probably the easiest and most accurate way.
2. Add spacers under the stem, not possible if the fork is already cut. I bet you can't do this with your bike or you probably wouldn't be asking. Of course this becomes possible again if you buy a new fork but I'm assuming you don't want to do that.
3. Get a commercially available extension. You install it around the steerer and put the stem above that. You'll probably still need your shim. This limits you to a minimum of 2" raised up. It's a great option for a big change, not micro tweaking.
Here are a few things to know though.
A 1 1/8 stem with a shim is by far your best bet. For most models, it's your only option.
1" spacers are available on Amazon and eBay if you look. It's easy to forget the fine print and have 1 1/8 sent instead. Be detailed in reading product descriptions.
You can raise your handlebars three ways with a threadless stem.
1. Get a new stem with a higher angle. Adjustable is even available. Typically not a great aesthetic choice but probably the easiest and most accurate way.
2. Add spacers under the stem, not possible if the fork is already cut. I bet you can't do this with your bike or you probably wouldn't be asking. Of course this becomes possible again if you buy a new fork but I'm assuming you don't want to do that.
3. Get a commercially available extension. You install it around the steerer and put the stem above that. You'll probably still need your shim. This limits you to a minimum of 2" raised up. It's a great option for a big change, not micro tweaking.
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 322
From: Mt Shasta, CA, USA
Bikes: Too many. Giant Trance X 29, Surly Midnight Special get the most time.
How much higher do you need? I very strongly prefer high angle stems to steerer extenders. Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net is a great tool to figure out what stem you need to acheive a given change of handlebar position.
1 1/8 steerer extender a 1" steerer sounds sketch to me
1 1/8 steerer extender a 1" steerer sounds sketch to me
#5
(rhymes with spook)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 749
From: Winslow, AR
Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3

it fits snugly with no play and remains nice and tight. very secure feeling
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CROMO-Quill...g/153214219733
Last edited by thook; 05-18-21 at 12:34 AM.
#6
1) A longer 1" threaded to 1-1/8" threadless adapter. The really long ones tend to be steel, heavy, and crappy. (Maybe someone makes a long-quill version that doesn't suck, and if so, buy that one and Bob's yer Uncle.) This is the easiest, cheapest way to do this.
2) Replace the adapter-and-stem combo with a high-rise 1" threaded stem. These are not hard to find, but the good ones aren't cheap. (Nitto, mostly... really well made, in Japan, and priced accordingly.) Depending on your handlebars, you may need new ones. You will have to strip and re-wrap the bars... quill stems, for reasons unknown to anyone, don't have removable faceplates. This is the more expensive, better looking, and more correct way to do this.
--Shannon
PS: I have a threadless adapter and stem on my '85 Fuji. It works and looks fine, given where my bars are.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,563
Likes: 735
From: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
[QUOTE=ShannonM;22070710]Bike Hack Hall of Fame, this.[/QUOTE]
It's okay, a clever kludge.
You want bike hack hall of fame, I reckon my internal Di2 retromod rates, except nobody seems to give a crap, wtf
It's okay, a clever kludge.
You want bike hack hall of fame, I reckon my internal Di2 retromod rates, except nobody seems to give a crap, wtf










