Missing part for bottom bracket
#1
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From: Toronto
Bikes: Sekine 1979 ten speed racer
Missing part for bottom bracket
It looks like my wife's bike is missing the part of the bottom bracket that caps and protects all the dust and dirt from getting in. Probably the last bike mechanic didn't re-assemble it properly.

Can anybody name all the missing parts? I'm guessing there will be a cap and some sort of ring lock nut. Are these parts universally sized that I can buy online and assemble on my own or should I take it to another bike mechanic?
Thanks

Can anybody name all the missing parts? I'm guessing there will be a cap and some sort of ring lock nut. Are these parts universally sized that I can buy online and assemble on my own or should I take it to another bike mechanic?
Thanks
#2
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Joined: Jan 2017
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If it's a standard shimano bb with a fully assembled spindle and bearings that is inserted through the drive side, and then a kind of retainer on the non drive side, meaning that there are only 2 parts, then there is nothing else.
https://si.shimano.com/#/en/EV/BB-UN55
If it's from some other manufacturer, then maybe there could be a separate dust cover but I don't have experience with other types of designs.
the shimano bb has seals near where the spindle protrudes from the end of the main assembly. You would be able to see them if you take off the crank arms. But I don't think it's necessary. You could also stick your face close to the gap with a lamp to take a look for the seal.
one thing though is that the gap between the crank and the bb shell looks really wide. Is the q factor symmetric? You can measure from the outer face of each crank arm at the pedal spindle to the seat tube to see if the distance is the same on both sides. I had an experience once a long time ago where a shop replaced my 68mm bb with a 73mm bb so the non drive side crank arm was really far out. That was when I decided to do everything myself.
If both sides are equal, then you can measure the chainline to see if it's correct. If the chainline is further out than desired, you could switch to a shorter bb spindle to reduce the gap and q factor.
https://si.shimano.com/#/en/EV/BB-UN55
If it's from some other manufacturer, then maybe there could be a separate dust cover but I don't have experience with other types of designs.
the shimano bb has seals near where the spindle protrudes from the end of the main assembly. You would be able to see them if you take off the crank arms. But I don't think it's necessary. You could also stick your face close to the gap with a lamp to take a look for the seal.
one thing though is that the gap between the crank and the bb shell looks really wide. Is the q factor symmetric? You can measure from the outer face of each crank arm at the pedal spindle to the seat tube to see if the distance is the same on both sides. I had an experience once a long time ago where a shop replaced my 68mm bb with a 73mm bb so the non drive side crank arm was really far out. That was when I decided to do everything myself.
If both sides are equal, then you can measure the chainline to see if it's correct. If the chainline is further out than desired, you could switch to a shorter bb spindle to reduce the gap and q factor.
Last edited by tomtomtom123; 05-16-21 at 03:39 PM.
#3
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
It's a cartridge type BB.
That's the way it is.
Pic is for removal tool attachment, but you can see what it is minus the NDS (plastic) "cup/retainer

"
That's the way it is.
Pic is for removal tool attachment, but you can see what it is minus the NDS (plastic) "cup/retainer

"
#4
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Thanks for being willing to toss the mechanic under the bus when you didn't know what was the norm.
As has been said the image is the usual assembly. I see no missing parts. Andy
As has been said the image is the usual assembly. I see no missing parts. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#5
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
If you are asking about the opening at the spindle end of the crank arm (the visible female threads at the extreme left edge of your photo) you need a crank arm dust cap. These vary a bit in diameter and threading among crank manufacturers but the Shimano type is most common and any bike shop should have them at low to no cost. They are available in metal or plastic and are installed and removed with a large screwdriver slot, a hex key hole or two small holes for a pin spanner depending on make.
#6
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
If you are asking about the opening at the spindle end of the crank arm (the visible female threads at the extreme left edge of your photo) you need a crank arm dust cap. These vary a bit in diameter and threading among crank manufacturers but the Shimano type is most common and any bike shop should have them at low to no cost. They are available in metal or plastic and are installed and removed with a large screwdriver slot, a hex key hole or two small holes for a pin spanner depending on make.
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#7
If you are asking about the opening at the spindle end of the crank arm (the visible female threads at the extreme left edge of your photo) you need a crank arm dust cap. These vary a bit in diameter and threading among crank manufacturers but the Shimano type is most common and any bike shop should have them at low to no cost. They are available in metal or plastic and are installed and removed with a large screwdriver slot, a hex key hole or two small holes for a pin spanner depending on make.
#8
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From: Boulder County, CO
Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track
Sometimes you tighten the non-drive-side lockring all you can and there's still an unsightly gap that fills with dirt. A plastic spacer from an old cassette will fit in there.




