Bike tools
Hello. I have a nishiki pueblo 26" mountain bike. I need to take off my cranks but I am unsure what crank puller I should buy. It looks so different from videos and photos I've seen.
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Do you know if the cranks are original to that bike? Otherwise if you bought this used, then they may have been changed.
You can go into your user profile and upload pic's of it to your gallery. Just let us know they are there. Any model numbers or other stuff about the crank and bb you can tell or show with pics will help. |
Originally Posted by Iride01
(Post 22081670)
Do you know if the cranks are original to that bike? Otherwise if you bought this used, then they may have been changed.
You can go into your user profile and upload pic's of it to your gallery. Just let us know they are there. Any model numbers or other stuff about the crank and bb you can tell or show with pics will help. |
Well I thought it would show up there. If you can get to that pic, just write the URL of that pic in your next message. Remove the https:// and put spaces on both side of any dot it contains.
However if they are only eight year old cranks, they might be self extracting. If there is a hole in what you might think is just a cover, then you should see an allen socket in the bolt underneath. You just stick the allen key through the hole in the cover and unscrew the bolt. When it makes contact with the cover, it pushes the crankarm off the spindle. |
Link to crank photos
imgur.com/gallery/RjqD4jO
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More than likely the bike is square taper but this tool will do both. Curious why you would need to take off your cranks though? You might bring it to the shop if you are unsure of what is going on.
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This or similar-
I can't tell if the threads in the crank are damaged from the fuzzy pic. https://www.parktool.com/product/uni...d-cranks-cwp-7 |
Bolt didn't break, that looks like a BB with the threaded section extending out from the spindle and uses an axle nut, not a bolt. Still uses the same exact tool but more care has to be taken. I recommend removing the center of the crank pulling tool, install it and make sure it threads in all the way and then install the center of the tool. This style of course slips into the center of the tool and I've watched experienced mechanics strip out the crank thinking the tool was fully installed when really the center had bottomed out on the threaded section of the spindle.
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The crank puller is one of the cases where I am particularly conscious of a rule, which is: Make sure you can fully thread a fastener just by hand before applying a wrench. If it needs "persuasion" find out what's wrong with the threads before proceeding. Using a wrench to thread in a stubborn fastener, or in this case a crank tool, is a certain recipe for stripped threads.
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Originally Posted by Gresp15C
(Post 22081976)
The crank puller is one of the cases where I am particularly conscious of a rule, which is: Make sure you can fully thread a fastener just by hand before applying a wrench. If it needs "persuasion" find out what's wrong with the threads before proceeding. Using a wrench to thread in a stubborn fastener, or in this case a crank tool, is a certain recipe for stripped threads.
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