Replacing One or Both Chainrings, But Hopefully Not Chain and Cassette
07-02-21, 05:24 PM
#26
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I'm running a 46/34, not a 46/36. I've had the DA derailleur for a few years. I've had the 46 tooth chainring for one year. I know that 46 tooth chainrings are generally designed to be paired with a 36 tooth chainring. However, my 46/34 setup with the DA derailleur worked well up until recently.
I’d replace the 46t and see how things go. FSA are notorious for wearing out quickly, but if you can get one cheap, slap it on and see how it goes. If everything is fine, go look for a good 46t for the future.
John
07-02-21, 05:47 PM
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The shift pin at the top of this photo looks heavily worn.
I can't tell by your last photo, but is there a worn shift pin opposite that one?
It is likely much of the shifting naturally occurs at the top and the bottom of the stroke.
======================
Edit:
Oops... that isn't a shift pin. That is the crank arm drop stop pin, and largely irrelevant for shifting (other than hopefully preventing the chain from getting jammed.
Overall, I think you only have moderate wear on your chainrings. A new ring wouldn't hurt, but may not fix the problem.
Highly cross-chaining can cause that type of torque shifting and can be a riding style.
I can't tell by your last photo, but is there a worn shift pin opposite that one?
It is likely much of the shifting naturally occurs at the top and the bottom of the stroke.
======================
Edit:
Oops... that isn't a shift pin. That is the crank arm drop stop pin, and largely irrelevant for shifting (other than hopefully preventing the chain from getting jammed.
Overall, I think you only have moderate wear on your chainrings. A new ring wouldn't hurt, but may not fix the problem.
Highly cross-chaining can cause that type of torque shifting and can be a riding style.
Last edited by CliffordK; 07-02-21 at 11:18 PM.
07-03-21, 11:41 AM
#28
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Thread Starter
Well that speaks volumes. As others have noted the 46t chainring does not look great compared to the inner (34t) ring, which looks fine.
I’d replace the 46t and see how things go. FSA are notorious for wearing out quickly, but if you can get one cheap, slap it on and see how it goes. If everything is fine, go look for a good 46t for the future.
John
I’d replace the 46t and see how things go. FSA are notorious for wearing out quickly, but if you can get one cheap, slap it on and see how it goes. If everything is fine, go look for a good 46t for the future.
John
Also, when I replace the big chainring, would I be able to keep my chain? I know that in general I'm supposed to replace the chain when I replace the chainring. However, my chain is only a month old and when I measured it it wasn't worn.
Last edited by AMoney; 07-03-21 at 12:31 PM.
07-08-21, 05:03 PM
#29
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Thanks again for all the comments. I wanted to give up an update. I replaced the big chainring. I also had a different LBS take a look at the front shifting. They told me that the cable tension was too loose while the limit screws were too tight. The front shifting is now much better.
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07-08-21, 06:32 PM
#30
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I have a FSA 50/34 chain ring set. The teeth of the chain rings look OK to me. It is hard to tell from the photos, but maybe the two chain rings were not aligned properly? On the smaller chain ring, there should be a nub or notch which indicates the alignment or orientation of the chain ring with respect to the drive side crank arm.
Super Road Chainring (Double) (fsaproshop.com)
Pro Road Chainring (Double) (fsaproshop.com)
* Never mind, missed the earlier post that the chain rings (FSA bigger, 105 smaller) are not a matched pair.
Super Road Chainring (Double) (fsaproshop.com)
Pro Road Chainring (Double) (fsaproshop.com)
* Never mind, missed the earlier post that the chain rings (FSA bigger, 105 smaller) are not a matched pair.
Last edited by SoSmellyAir; 07-08-21 at 06:38 PM.
