Having problems getting the bottom bracket off my bike. I have what I think is
the correct removal tool - a standard 20 spline socket. Thing is, it won't
engage with the bracket because there's a metal sleeve stopping it on both sides. (can't post photos I'm afraid - forum rules apparently)

I have tried to drift the sleeve but it won't budge. And even bought another tool, thinking the one I had might be too bulky. But
no joy.

I'm pretty sure the bracket is scrap (grinding bearings) so I might consider
hammer/punch. But any other ideas welcome.

More info needed. What is the make and model of the bottom bracket? What type is the bb shell? Is the bottom bracket a cartridge or external bearing type?

Go to parktool.com for the BB removal video. Youtube has them, good and bad. If what your are describing is what I am picturing, you need a way of clamping the properly place tool onto the BB. There are various ways to accomplish that dependent on components.

Make and model - not sure, no marking that I can see, but the rest of the components are Deore LX (bike is a c.20 year old Giant XTC ES). The axle is a 10 point spline, and the retaining cup has 20 notches.

The tool that I have is a generic 20 point splined socket, similar to a 'Park Tool BBT-32 Compact Bottom Bracket Tool 20-Tooth Splines Shimano and ISIS Sealed Cartridge Tool'. The Park tool does look to have a thinner socket wall that might fit between the sleeve and the teeth of the cup or cartridge. But it's all a bit risky buying yet another tool. And the sleeve does look odd. It's pretty much flush one side, and protrudes about 5mm on the other - enough to stop the tool engaging.

Sorry I can't be more precise - any help appreciated!

Thanks yes, I've had a look. But there's no way the tool I have will engage with the BB - this cursed metal sleeve is stopping it.

You sure about 10 spline? I don't know of a Shimano crankset with 10 splines.
​​​​​​https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/techn.../octalink.html

It sounds like an ISIS bottom bracket and probably an FSA crank. Bike makers were famous for advertising the bike as "Shimano Deore LX" or similar and providing that group's derailleurs and brakes but cutting costs by using a less expensive crank and bb. FSA was a common substitute crank.

Yes - definitely 10 splines. I can post a pic after 10 posts apparently! I think it is an FSA as Hillrider says - Wiggle appears to have 10 spline FSA ISIS bottom brackets - mine looks a little like the FSA Platinum Pro MegaQuad ISIS E-Type BB. To the point it also has the sleeve. The plot thickens . . .

Limited to 5 posts/day til you hit 10.
You can download pictures to your album in the user control panel and others can see them.

"E Type" is typically for using e type mounted front derailleurs.

​​​​​​

Thanks dedhed - mine isn't the E type fit, it's a standard frame mounted front derailleur. But the BB looks a little like the one in the Wiggle catalogue. I have a feeling I'm going to need to buy yet another version of the 20 toothed tool. There was a post in 2008 on this forum headed 'ISIS Bottom Bracket tool fit' where the OP had the same problem as me. Thing is, the Park tool BBT-22 looks identical to the ones I have . . .

Anmyhoo, that's my 5 posts for the day - thanks all for your help

I'll take a guess-
There's a metal "ring" at the bearing side of the spindle that prevents the tool from engaging.
The solution is a bigger tool. I had the same problem.
IIRC, the "ring" was only on the DS side???
Might be something totally different?

Pic per Sheldon-

Ah - Bill - that's it, you're absolutely correct. It's the ISIS Splined on the Sheldon picture, with the 10-point crank spline and the sleeve.

So . . . I bought the BBT-22 Park tool - same problem - the shoulder wouldn't pass the sleeve, and engage the splines. From what I could gather, the Park tool was the last resort. It was in fact about 1mm internal diameter bigger, so getting there, but it needed at least another 1.5mm I'd guess, and I had no idea where I could get such a thing.

So first, I tried to centre punch/hammer the bracket out. But the metal was far too soft and it simply 'drifted' from one indent to the next, and I didn't want to completely wreck the shell.

Then, I was able to get a set of mole grips on the 3mm or so of the bracket on the drive side (the other side was flush to the frame) and it came out easily. For the other side, there wasn't anything to grip, so I tried drifting (using the bracket splined tool) the sleeve through to the drive side and it worked, allowing the bracket removal tool to engage. Again, not tight at all.

And it's out. It's a Race Face SRX 113mm, fits 68 and 73mm shells, 81mm spindle designation (all written on the bracket case). One side of the bearings feels shot - gritty.

Thanks for all the help! Cheers, Rob

Slight update - I was getting ahead of myself a little, as I hadn't reckoned on fitting the new BB. I bought a basic VP part, and had exactly the same problem when trying to tighten it - the tool wouldn't clear the sleeve. I took the BB and tool to my LBS. He had 2 tools that he uses - a Park and a Shimano - neither would clear the sleeve. He tried 2 that he sells, still no good. A third did fit. He said he'd never come across this before, so maybe I was just unlucky with the BBs.