cassette removal tool
 

So I went ahead and purchased the 8 dollar cassette removal tool from amazon and guess what, it doesn't work. You get what you pay for :( It is the one with the 8-inch Allan key that plugs into this metal sprocket remover. You hold the chain whip in one hand and the Allan key in the other. I tried multiple positions and pulled with all my might to try and loosen it and it won't budge. I think the problem is the sprocket remover does not grip the cassette lock ring tight enough so when I add-force, I am just pushing down and potentially stripping the bolt. Would you recommend getting the kind of sprocket remover that has a pin to go into the hub? Do you think it helps to have one with the handle attached? Thanks.

An 8" wrench is probably inadequate.
I use a 1" box wrench which is MUCH longer and some are still a bit tight.

Is 8" a requirement or just something to further obscure your description?
You have enough posts to post pics or links. That might give a clue as to what you are talking about.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...19e369ab79.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...677eec9630.jpg
Here are some photos. I think the problem is the losing nut is not tighly inserted into the lock ring. Having a tool to create more torque could help but I think the nut is just digging into the lock ring.

That tool is way too long to give effective leverage without using 3 arms.
The PARK remover allows you to secure the tool with a QR skewer.
Use a large adjustable wrench on the tool flats.
You need more than 8" leverage in most cases.

Do you mean this
Amazon.com : Park Tool FR-5.2 Cassette Lockring Tool - Fits Shimano, SRAM, SunRace, SunTour, Chris King, Others : Sports & Outdoors


what should the length of the wrench be?

I have a similar removal tool that was a part of a Bike Nashbar toolkit I bought years ago and I haven’t had any problems removing a cassette.

Well, get one more hand to hold the chain whip and use channel locks on that serrated area opposite the Allen wrench.

I use this two:


Feedback Sports Bottom Bracket + Lockring Tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1




Pedro's Vise Whip
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sometimes I need every ft-lb of torque from a 12" adjustable. But it doesn't make any sense to exceed the length of your whip. On extreme cases, I'll wrap a short piece of chain on a cog and use my 14" pipe wrench.

You mentioned you tried multiple positions of the wrenches, and I hope you tried the most ergonomic of having the two wrench handles close together. The way they're aligned in the photo, you'll have to use the small muscles in the wrist to turn them. If they're aligned, you can straighten your arms and use the larger muscles in your shoulders.

Exactly. Try to align the respective handles of the two tools so that they are only slightly apart (e.g., at 6 and 8 o'clock positions) and then squeeze the two handles together (i.e., toward each other) with both hands to loosen the lock ring.

The tools that SethL is using are hardly ideal. The Park Tool cassette remover (at least the no pin model) can be fastened onto the lock ring with a QR skewer so that the tool does not slip off the lock ring even if one uses the longest wrench one owns.

You are turning the lockring tool COUNTER clockwise?

Cheers

what kind of hub is that?

my hub has little serations on the smallest cog that kind of have this racheting mechanism going on as to limit torque,

if yours has this, then the lockring should not be that tight, it just may be rusted on there in which case soaking it down first would be the first step.

second step would be to secure that tool on there with a quick release or if needed, a longer fastener of which i know not of the whereabouts for procurement of such an implement.

Thanks, everyone. Great suggestions! I tried some. The Allen key should be longer and designed more like an actual wrench but this and my brute force are not the issues. If the black losing nut does not fit securely into the center of the cassette and wiggles around, there is no way it will loosen. Taking to a mechanic today!

High torque applications are not a place to skimp on tool quality

Park Tool demonstrates how to use a workbench vice to remove the cassette as an alternative....Starts at about 4:15 on the video.

I looks to me as though you have those tools set up to TIGHTEN the lockring. Put the hex wrench so the handle is on the LEFT side of the lockring removal tool and then put the wheel vertical and push down on the hex key.

Cheers

My travel bike box has an 8" in it and I have used it for many years exactly the way SoSmellyAir spelled out for you and never had a problem with family and friends cassettes.

Further suggestions to SethL: (1) Toss the "Allan" [sic] key; (2) secure the "metal sprocket remover" onto the lock ring with the rear QR skewer; (3) use a proper wrench to turn the "metal sprocket remover" as I outlined above (in post #11). Good luck.

Don't tighten your lock rings so tight. Half the time I don't need a chain whip to loosen mine. Just a rag to keep the teeth from sticking me when I hold the cassette.

The cheap tool is fine if it isn't slipping. If you aren't doing this every day of your life a better tool will just be something to brag about.

Not sure why you didn't put a cheater over the hex wrench if it is that tight.

I didn't see that it had room for an open end wrench. Pretty tall tool for a quick release. Doesn't hurt to put some light grease on the threads before reinstalling.

IIRC, the chain whip is not necessary to tighten the lockring, as the pawls of the freehub engage and provide resistance.
Looks like the tools are set up to remove the lockring (isn't it a right-hand thread?)... but I haven't done this operation for a couple years.

The top photo in post #17 shows that the "metal sprocket remover" has a portion with a hexagonal cross section (under a circular disc) with what appear to be parallel surfaces which presumably can be engaged by a wrench.

Yes, a chainwhip is not needed in order to tighten a lockring.

Look at the images. The OP has the hex key handle to the right. Thus in order to loosen that lockring he has to pull up on t he hex key. If he had the hex key handle to the left he could exert a lot more force by pushing down on the hex key handle. As it is now, if he pushes down on that hex key handle he'll be tightening the lockring not loosening it.

Here's an image showing where the hex key handle should be for easier removal of that lockring.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1ae2269df5.jpg

I wonder if the OP has gotten the lockring off already?

Cheers

Cheater bar.