Torque wrenches and bits
06-24-22 | 12:53 PM
#27
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 6,006
Likes: 2,286
From: Mission Viejo
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Since I have little carbon, one fork, I generally don't use a torque wrench. Most everything is done by feel. But there are exceptions.
I like to use a torque wrench for square taper/ISIS/Octalink cranks and attaching a NDS crank arm. I like to use one on faceplate and a threadless stem bolts. I will also use one to attach a freehub body and even a cassette lockring. I have 3 torque wrenches I have picked up over the years from 1/4" to 1/2". I have used a scale to check the torque at different settings.
I can't say going cheaper or more expensive is better for working on a bike. But it is funny that someone will spend $500 on an adjustable driver (golf) and then use a cheap $10 torque wrench to make head adjustments or set weights.
John
I like to use a torque wrench for square taper/ISIS/Octalink cranks and attaching a NDS crank arm. I like to use one on faceplate and a threadless stem bolts. I will also use one to attach a freehub body and even a cassette lockring. I have 3 torque wrenches I have picked up over the years from 1/4" to 1/2". I have used a scale to check the torque at different settings.
I can't say going cheaper or more expensive is better for working on a bike. But it is funny that someone will spend $500 on an adjustable driver (golf) and then use a cheap $10 torque wrench to make head adjustments or set weights.
John
06-25-22 | 12:55 AM
#28
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,335
Likes: 133
From: SFBay
Bikes: n, I would like n+1
And even if they could make one torque wrench that could perform accurately with that kind of range, it wouldn't be a good idea, business-wise. Because some doofus is bound to come along and place 60nm on a 3mm bit and... hilarity will ensue, frivolous litigation and all.
