juntjoo

In higher gears the chain slips i feel. Is that what it is? Any other reasons the pedal gives out momentarily? In lower gears no, but I'm guessing cuz there's less stress on the chain there.

As far as chain life, I just learned to use the chain gauge and looks like according to the the icons on the tool itself, if it's stretched out, the tooth/thingie will struggle to reach over the hole. In my case, this chain here it OVER reaches. So... Don't know what that means. Seems like I'd have more life on this chain if anything. Maybe it doesn't match the gears on the... cog set(?) I forget. Or they're worn? What am I most likely dealing with here?

I'm guessing the wheel with its gears/cogs is stock. I got this bike used and stock I'm pretty sure. I only changed the derailleur.

juntjoo

I've learned this the importance of lubrication the hard way, with both my lawn mower and truck who's engine's I've blown. Just because you're not leaking oil in the driveway doesn't mean you have any. Make sure you're not eating your lube internally.

juntjoo

I just posted a message a couple up about my chain slipping in higher gears. Might this be due to what you're noticing? I'll have to look into the b-screw. I left it as is. Seemed okay to me but I'll see if I can relieve that bend in the cable.

grumpus

Worn chain and/or worn cassette is the usual reason for this. Or you might have a stiff chain link - check that each link will flex without sticking.
Freewheel or cassette depending on which you have (I think yours is a cassette) also known generically as a sprocket cluster.
Sounds like you don''t understand how to use the chain gauge. The gauge should fit through the end link but stop part way with the outside end resting on the next link. Try measuring the chain with a ruler - 12 link pairs (24 half links) should be exactly 12 inches.
Doesn't look like it's ever seen much oil.

juntjoo

Yes, the end if the gauge hits link at the front of the gauge. Touch front good, back bad

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juntjoo

How do these look?

bboy314

Another issue that could be contributing to your chain skip is your dropout. If it has bent out, or opened up, it may place your derailleur further back, giving you less chain wrap on the cogs and causing the chain to skip.

Iride01 

It looks like you need a longer cable housing on that rear going from the DR to the chain stay. And that's going go mean a longer cable too. So keep that in mind if you get tired of messing with things you can't seem to ever get correct with the shifting of the DR.

If you changed the chain recently and you are having problems with it skipping on the cogs, then the cogs that it's slipping on might be worn out. Or you not getting fully shifted into that cog. Do you know what that DR is that you put on it? Might be a part number or something on the backside of the parallelogram.

I don't see anything wrong with having your QR in from that side as long as it's not interfering with things. People that notice it will think it strange though. But sounds like you have a decent enough reason.

Here is the most current General Operations manual at Shimano's Tech Doc Site.

https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/dm/GN...001-26-ENG.pdf

It's not comprehensive, just a guide for mechanics and DIYer's that have some basic skills already with bikes. But it might give you some clues about if you installed and set up that DR and other stuff properly. If that is a Shimano DR and you find the proper part number for it then you can plug that in at their Tech Doc Site and maybe find more useful info about it. If it's another brand of DR, then Google is your friend to find it's installation and adjustment manuals from the manufacturer.

https://si.shimano.com/

squirtdad

classic bike aesthetics, but historically when you have horizontal dropouts, it is much easier to get the rear wheel straight if you have lever on the left,

Iride01 

Oh... some other member mentioned it. And I too think that DR seems to have the jockey wheel way to rearward on the cogs. If you look at other bikes, the jockey wheel of the DR is usually in front of the vertical centerline of the cassette.

veganbikes

Yes. Not sure why people think they don't need oil or some sort of lubricant especially when their chain is drier than the desert and squeaking loudly? It is a very annoying noise and having to hear it for 10-20 seconds is bad enough but for all of my rides, yowza! I wouldn't be able to put up with it. just looking at rust would tell me something is up and I should figure it out unless I guess some of these folks live in rust all the time.

grumpus

Middle sprockets look pretty worn, but you can't always tell just by looking. One check you can do is try to lift the chain off the sprocket with a small screwdriver or similar, in the middle of where it wraps around (i.e. about 9 o.clock). If you can lift the chain much past the tip of the teeth then chain and/or sprocket is significantly worn.

smd4

Maybe I'm seeing things, but please don't tell me you are using two different rear derailleur cable housing sections, connected only by the inner cable...

smd4

To me...not good. Looks to me like about one of the "stretchest" chains I've ever seen.

squirtdad

now that you called it out that is what I see also......can't help shifting at all