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Originally Posted by tFUnK
(Post 22822733)
I had a spoke break on my rear wheel. In terms of repair, obviously the simplest thing to do is to get a replacement spoke, install it, and then bring the wheel to true. I'm aware that while this may be the simplest fix, it may not result in the most robust wheel.
A search on these forums suggests that the best practice is to respoke the entire wheel. I interpret "respoke" to mean to get all new spokes - is this an accurate interpretation? Relatedly, rather than replacing all of the spokes, can I get away with replacing just the affected side spokes and reusing the old spokes from the unaffected side? The other thing I'm considering is to loosen (but not remove) all of the spokes, install the replacement spoke, and then re-tension (and bring to true) the entire wheel. The thinking is that I'd be reusing all the old spokes except for the single new replacement spoke, and essentially rebuilding the wheel so that it is tensioned properly. Is there merit to this approach? |
Originally Posted by pdlamb
(Post 22825052)
I've done that on occasion, but once you start using a tensiometer the minor benefit of the butted spoke is diminished because you have to keep track of which spoke(s) are which gauge. It can be done, either with the gauge Park includes with its tensiometer or by feeling the spoke that seems to be out of whack, but it'll slow you down.
Last wheel I built with both 12 and 14 mm nipples as well. (So nice big spoke wrench flats on the much tighter drive-side spokes. Did the same thing there. Again, easy. (If you buy your spokes from Wheelbuilding, they package both spokes and nipples in clear plastic sealed bags nicely marked for length and type/gauge.) |
Originally Posted by davidad
(Post 22828441)
I had one break and the wheel came far out of true so I detensioned it and basically rebuilt it up to tension. Usually 100 to 110 Kg tension.
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