Broken spoke - spoke replacement best practices?
 

I had a spoke break on my rear wheel. In terms of repair, obviously the simplest thing to do is to get a replacement spoke, install it, and then bring the wheel to true. I'm aware that while this may be the simplest fix, it may not result in the most robust wheel.

A search on these forums suggests that the best practice is to respoke the entire wheel. I interpret "respoke" to mean to get all new spokes - is this an accurate interpretation? Relatedly, rather than replacing all of the spokes, can I get away with replacing just the affected side spokes and reusing the old spokes from the unaffected side?

The other thing I'm considering is to loosen (but not remove) all of the spokes, install the replacement spoke, and then re-tension (and bring to true) the entire wheel. The thinking is that I'd be reusing all the old spokes except for the single new replacement spoke, and essentially rebuilding the wheel so that it is tensioned properly. Is there merit to this approach?

This is what I would do. This assumes that you don't see any damage on the remaining spokes. Of course, this is contingent on your history of spoke breakage. I rarely break a spoke so I'm comfortable with "replace only one". If you are breaking spokes with some regularity, you may want to consider respoking (or a more robust wheel). There are some who feel that a broken spoke is a harbinger for more spokes breaking. I've just not found this to be the case.

Probably, especially if you're only breaking rear drive side spokes.


I'd say that if your wheel was tensioned properly to begin with, loosening and re-tensioning after replacement is a low value exercise. I'd just replace the spoke and tension it to true.

Good luck on your repair.

These older Internet newsgroup posts by the late Jobst Brant may be relevant:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/reusing-spokes.html

https://yarchive.net/bike/spoke_reuse.html

The man knew a thing or two about bikes and their wheels.

My rule is simple. A single broker spoke is a happenstance. 2 is bad luck, 3 time for a new wheel.

I don't mean all at once. Unless there's more to it, a single broken spoke should simply br replaced, and the date or mileage noted.

Normally the interval between broken spokes shortens, so if it's another year before the break, you can expect 6 months or so to the 3rd, and so on.

If you're lucky, and not seeing shortened intervals, you can continue to replace spokes.

It's all a judgement call based on cost and predicted life. I compare it to flat tires get more common as the tire wears. At some point you'll replace a tire that still has serviceable tread, because you're getting too many flats.

Inspect the wheel carefully looking for the wear spots...often at the bend caused by movement.
Spokes move quite a bit during use. They flex laterally and move at all contact points. A weak spot will break at some point but is not indicative of all the spokes needing replacement.
One spoke is just an easy replacement especially if the break was not at the bend.
If more spokes break over time it is likely time to relace the wheel with new spokes.

Let me talk my way through an alternate flow chart.

If a spoke breaks in the middle (i.e., neither at the j-bend nor at the top of the nipple), there's probably spoke damage. Carefully inspect all the similar spokes (e.g. outer drive side spokes) and replace any others that are nicked.

If the first spoke breaks at the top of the threads or nipple, or at the bend, replace it. If another one breaks similarly, you can try replacing that as well, but I'd suspect the wheel wasn't properly tensioned. Use a tensiometer or electronic tuner to make sure tension is where it should be (aka bring the whole wheel up to correct tension, then true and stress-relieve it). Often this will stop spokes from breaking for many thousands of miles.

If spokes keep breaking after you've tensioned the wheel, I'll conclude there's a bunch of spokes near failure with too many accumulated stress fractures; replace them all!

Same rule here. It's served me well for decades.

It depends why and how your spoke broke. It might have damage or manufacturing defect that doesn't affect any others or there might be damage to a group of spokes, or it might be the sign of a poorly built wheel reaching its fatigue limit.
It might be sufficient to replace just the one spoke, or a quarter of them, or half of them. You should get some idea of the general state of the wheel from replacing the one failed spoke and truing. If it's just loose you may be able to tighten it, or you may find spokes that either won't turn or break - then it's time for more replacements' or a full rebuild, or just buy a new wheel, depending on the state of your hub and rim.
Not really - it might be worthwhile if the wheel is generally sound but the nipples aren't turning easily, then backing them all off would let you add a drop of oil to the top of each one before re-tensioning and truing.

Thanks for the comments. More context: the wheel came on a used bike I recently picked up (2015 model, unknown mileage but seems to be in decent condition, no non-stock parts). The wheel is your basic stock wheel, nothing fancy. I noticed on the rear wheel there had been already one spoke that was previously replaced (one silver spoke, rest are black). So my recent broken spoke would register as #2. My spoke broke on the drive side, at the J bend.

An excuse to upgrade wheels.

😁 Already on my mind; even with a new wheelset there's a part of me that wants to salvage this wheel and keep as a spare set (eg, for road vs. gravel use).

In this scenario, would you loosen all spokes first, install replacement spoke, and then bring to tension together? Or leave all spokes as they are, install the replacement spoke, and bring to tension from there?

I'm lazy, I admit it. If only one spoke is broken, I'll try to replace that, match the tension to the rest of the wheel, and then do some touch-up truing.

If I'm replacing two, I'll put a flag near the hub on the replacements and try to true it just playing with the two new spokes' tension. Sometimes it works... Note I've had that happen a couple times on machine-built wheels, which is why I try to get the tension and stress-relief right (read: redone) on new wheels.

When I had the chain dive into the wheel, I de-tensioned everything a turn, replaced the five* nicked spokes, and basically re-built the wheel as a complete unit.

*Should have replaced all nine of the outer spokes, it would have saved time. The nicks I missed took a while to show up.

+1 And sometimes spokes are just bad. Or have gotten themselves into trouble. Like finding nicks down near the flange. Hanging out to close to the chain. (Yes, that is the chain not respecting its and the spokes boundaries but whatever.) Finding road debris. Getting in the way of tools. Replace it. (Tell the other spokes they will get the same treatment if they misbehave?) Ride.

Fun aside - I used to build my wheels with the zinc plated Robergel Sports. Back when their beautiful SS spokes were famous for popping heads. On those Sports, quality control was not included. Usually an unusable spoke or two per box. But they were strong and reliable - except 2-3 per wheelset would just break. This was back when I was running 120 BCD 5-speed. A broken spoke simply wasn't an issue. Maybe open the brake a little but completely rideable. Once those two or three spokes were replaced, those wheels went until the rims died.

Answer your own question.

We opt to simply replace the single spoke to buy time and put off rebuilding or replacing the wheel. Given the goal of a quick cheap fix, why would now make it more complicated than necessary. Either do it quick and easy or go whole hog, don't try to split the difference.

Do both. I did. The stock Bontrager Paradigm 25 that came on my Domane broke a drive side spoke at the threads. Then another. Than a third. Replaced spokes with better ones and made this wheel set my gravel set. After 5 smokes tensioned the wheel and have not broken any. For the road bought a set of Aeolus Pro 51s. Almost bought the RSL 37s but the deeeep wheels look cooler. They don’t get affected by cross winds like the Pro 5s rim brake wheels I have on another bike. Anyway both Aeolus wheels the spokes have never been touched. May be the depth or just better assembly. Go for it. Spare set of wheels so no swamping tire.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b72271b2a.jpeg
Richmond Cap Triil
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8777282e8.jpeg
For gravel
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3fa5d17ee.jpeg
Oh no broken spoke. 35mm GR1 measures 38mm and did not rub just so close. Limped and did not have to walk back.

If I have broken more than one spoke I am going to get a new wheel the only time to salvage some parts is if they are high end. Otherwise it just isn't worth your time and money to chase spokes around the wheel. One spoke could be a spot of bad luck or lack of care and maintenance but once you have multiples it is a generally a good sign of a poorly built wheel that will fail. If you know you are cool with new wheels already just go for it and save the headaches and the money on the likely temporary fix.

I had a rear spoke break on a new bike within the first few month, ~1,300 road miles. I could have had it replaced under warranty, but I hated the sound of the free hub so decided to rebuild the wheel with a DT Swiss 350 hub and new spokes. I really like the rim. I should have checked the tension on the spokes myself when I first got the bike. I suspect it was perhaps not tensioned properly. Or just a random defect in the spoke or build. If I didn't want to replace the hub, I would have just replaced the broken spoke, checked the spoke tensions and went on with life.

Good suggestions from everybody who commented. So I actually had two wheelsets that each had a broken rear DS spoke; one was a custom wheel my buddy built up and another is a stock wheel from a bike I picked up used.

On the custom wheel I loosened all spokes, replaced the one, and tensioned everything back up. Very satisfying experience getting the tensions perfect and the wheel round and true.

On the stock wheelset I'm debating rebuilding with all new spokes (will probably go with 2/1.8 instead of the straight gauge on there now). It's nothing fancy but for the price of 48 new spokes for both wheels it would be nice to have a solid spare set for road slicks. I plan to pick up something nicer for gravel use first, and save this for a rainy day project.

I agree with this, but I would also add this. Before you go to the trouble of replacing the spoke, get out a magnifying glass and check the spoke holes carefully for cracks. Sometimes a spoke breakage is a warning sign. If there are cracks, the rim is junk. If there are no cracks, replace the spoke and ride on.

What was the hub you had before? DT Swiss are pretty noisy. Was your previous hub noisier or did you just not like the type of noise?

I've done that on occasion, but once you start using a tensiometer the minor benefit of the butted spoke is diminished because you have to keep track of which spoke(s) are which gauge. It can be done, either with the gauge Park includes with its tensiometer or by feeling the spoke that seems to be out of whack, but it'll slow you down.

I'm not sure what hub I replaced, it came on some Bontrager wheels and was listed as "Bontrager Alloy".

Odd, your opinion of DT Swiss hubs, my limited experience with my DT Swiss 350 hubs, 18T have been very quiet. Not silent but often I can't hear them above road noise.

In any case, the ones I replaced were embarrassingly loud.

Hmmm. Maybe it's quieter because it's only 18T. The DT hubs I have heard are pretty loud, but maybe they were different models with more points of engagement.

I agree, it's probably something along those lines.
I don't have experience with anything other than the 18T DT Swiss 350 hubs. Looking online it appears that more teeth is more sound, or perhaps just a higher pitch that sounds louder. I do know from my own experience that they will be quieter right after servicing with new grease and very gradually get louder as they are used. In fact, I think sounding loud may be a sign that it is time to service the hubs. Also, maybe there's a difference between the DT Swiss hub series. Anyway, this is gotten off the thread topic.