I bought these guys to run tubules and they seemed fine. well for a little while the back held air well but the front would only got maybe 4 days before needing air. it would self steer so I tired ti keep it close to the 50 psi max.
well the back started leaking sealant andI found a small slot in the bead. replaced it with another new tire and after maybe another 300 or so miles it happened again.
I replaced it once more and that tire has a hump in it and it may hold air for 8 miles if I am lucky. I think it just eats around the bead. I saw bubbles that did not want to go away right after I mounted the tire. so I went on a ride to get it all sealed but it would not seal. it is also the one with that hump. I tired breaking the bead and rotating the tire and nope. I noticed the front has some hump too. I am emailing WTB to see what will happen. Right now I shut put tubes in them. It's a big difference ride 35 psi with tubes fills like 45 psi without. the front I found a big zit on the seam full of sealant.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/069E...nxJOaqZ7qwf2Dg

Does the manufacturer advertise tubeless as a documented feature?

says tubeless compatible system on the package. but I am starting to wonder. the ride is not as nice with tubes for sure.

Whenever I hear of multiple failures, I look for the common denominator.

So, given the odds of 3 random tires having the same problem, I look for what they share. So, either there's something about the rim, or more likely, your mounting process.

Key question -------- did you use any tools to mount the tires?

If so, that's the likely problem. Using tools to mount a tire creates the risk of nicking (or worse,) the bead. Minor besd nicks aren't an issue with tubes, but degrade the bead seal quality that tubeless depends on.

When I teach repair, EVERYBODY, including ladies with small hands and long figernails, learns how to mount even the tghtest tire with finesse rather than tools.
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One other note about tubeless that people.don't think about. The sealant does a great job sealing punctures in the tread because riding spreads it along the outer periphery. So, there won't be sealant near the bead if it's needed there. Solving re this by laying the wheel flat and slowly roll it pivoting on the axle.for a few minutes. Flip and repeat. Once is enough unless you later suspect rim leakage.

the fist one I think I only needed my hands. I may have had to use the lever to get the last part on on the last one. but thats just getting the lever under the bead and lifting it up. they take very little effort to mount and dismount. the tire would hold air fairly well too you ride it hone it would leak and the sealed would leak out of that slot till the tire was empty. they are new rims and the bad spot happened in two different places on the rim.different sides too.

Well exactly. My personal prejudice is that tubeless is more trouble than it's worth, but that's just me.

Whether it's tires or plumbing problems or oil leaks on Porsche engines, when I hear "Sealant" proposed as the solution, I aint buying it.

Something is wrong and it feels like the OP's technique for tire mounting may be the problem.

People struggle with snapped tire levers. As FBinNY said, you should be able to mount just about any tire without tools. The trick is to get the tire beads - all the way around - down in the rim's "well" so as to give enough slack to get the tire into the rim. if you are struggling, something is wrong and most likely it's that the tire bead is up in the bead seat area of the rim.

/markp

these tires almost go on by hand. the first tire was on a different rim and I installed it by hand. no tools needed. the second one all I had to do was put the lever under the bead and lift up. hard to screw up a tire that way. not sure how else you could manage that. if a tire cant take the stress of one tire lever use then there is an issue with it. the first one I did not even use the tire lever or use it on the side it failed on. WTB is replacing them. the last tire would not hold a seal at all. I saw bubbles coming from the bead that did not want to seal.
both the tires that toe had leakage all the way around the inner sidewall like in this picture. I dont have the muscle to break a tire iron anymore.

That's a fast and generous response from WTB!

I put on some schwalbe g1 speed tires love these guys but they are super puncture prone.but it was night and day how these went out and did not lose air. the WTBs kept leaking. but here is the weird thing the WTBs are meant for 25mm rims and I had them on 35 mm rims and they worked great . when I put them on my 25mm new wheels then I had issues I dont know if I had humps on the 35mm rims or not.

anyone want three slightly used tires?
got these guys to replace them.

You got the light-fast rolling WTB casing. These weep sealant (and air) for a good 1-2 weeks on and off with regular riding before they seal up for good. Not joking - I had a pair of WTB skinwall tubeless tires I rode for a whole season - some of the best trail tires I ever had. Supple as hell. But boy howdy did they take forever to stop weeping at the sidewall and they wouldn't hold air more than a day or two for the 1st week of riding them. They would go flat overnight during that time. Those Byways are likely to be completely fine - they just require more time than people realize to setup completely. If you get the more durable casings, this won't usually happen and you're good to go in a day or two. Just a case of expectations not meeting reality.

before I changed rims they held air fine. but on the 25mm rims the front would last two or three days before it got to 30 psi. I have used it for maybe a month or more daily riding 18 miles a day. the back did fine till it got the hole in two tires In the sidewall. I dont know of the back two tires had a hump but the front one did and a giant puss pocket where the two layers separated. but the back replacement I was lucky if I could make it 10 miles the first couple rides without having to add air. but it got worse I had to stop twice to fill it and it had even worse hump.
these tires felt soft till they were on the bike then they we not soft at all. it was a bit strange. with tubes they were even worse.

How much pressure are you running with? At this width you should be running something like 30-35psi

they are 30 to 55psi but i found on the front much below 45 and you get a self steer feel and I rand 40 on the back. but with tubes 35 was fine though I may have gone lower if I did not change them.

It is strange. It's not impossible to have gotten 3 pair all from the same bad factory batch. Years ago I bought an Osprey backpacking pack that failed because the aluminum perimeter frame wasn't properly chamfered at the factory and the sharp aluminum ripped the pack material. The free replacement I got after 6 months did the same thing. They were both part of the same factory batch. The support people just put in a replacement order from current stock - which can all be from the same bad batch. 30 PSI should be absolutely do-able for those tires unless you are a quite burley fellow. 45 PSI is quite high for anything close to 650b x 2.0".

look at this bead. they all start smooth but it does not take much time for them to get rough. This one already has some bubbles by that massive seam.

If the three tires were the same model bought at the same time, it's possibly that they came from the same defective lot. But yeah, probably much more likely something else like mounting or the rim.

only two had the cut but two or more had humps. one had a big blister where the layers separated. the 4th one would not seal it leaked at the bead and would only hold air for a short time. the pics show the bead how rough it is