Stem points forward
#1
Thread Starter
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From: Summerville SC
Bikes: 2012 Caad 8 105; 1994 Trek 5500
Stem points forward
Mountain bike, I want to get bars higher and / or more towards me, to avoids neck problems
is there any reason the stem can not point back towards rider?
is there any reason the stem can not point back towards rider?
#2
Facts just confuse people




Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Mississippi
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
At various times there have been some bikes that had the stem pointed backwards. I'd say try it if you think it's what will make the bike work. You can always put it back the other way if it doesn't. Might seem a little more sensitive at first when you are one handing it.
Just consider how much clearance you have for your knees. Especially if you turn the bars a lot when slow.
Just consider how much clearance you have for your knees. Especially if you turn the bars a lot when slow.
#3
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Summerville SC
Bikes: 2012 Caad 8 105; 1994 Trek 5500
At various times there have been some bikes that had the stem pointed backwards. I'd say try it if you think it's what will make the bike work. You can always put it back the other way if it doesn't. Might seem a little more sensitive at first when you are one handing it.
Just consider how much clearance you have for your knees. Especially if you turn the bars a lot when slow.
Just consider how much clearance you have for your knees. Especially if you turn the bars a lot when slow.
#4
Facts just confuse people




Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Mississippi
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Now you are really making that bike look funky. My only concern with going that high is the load it put on the steerer tube. The further out the bars from where the steerer tube goes in the headset the more force that is going to that part of the steerer tube. At some point the force will be too much and the steerer tube will break or collapse. But how far is too far I can't say.
Still, if its for myself, I'd try anything at least once if it's something I think might help me.
Still, if its for myself, I'd try anything at least once if it's something I think might help me.
#6
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
your bike will become unstable, and you won't be able to stand and pedal at the same time, so you'll be walking up even minor inclines.. on the good side, you''ll have lots of time to play on the internet while you're recovering!
how are you raising the bars 110mm?
how are you raising the bars 110mm?
#7
aged to perfection


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From: PacNW
Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc
right I think you'll find that it will handle like a wheelbarrow !
try scooting the saddle forward instead !
/markp
try scooting the saddle forward instead !
/markp
#8
Handling would feel very weird and probably unstable
You would also risk hitting the bars with your knees
#9
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Stems normally hold the bars forward of the fork for the same reason airplane wings slant upward.
That orientation imparts a natural stability and tendency to settle to level (straight ahead) when not pushed otherwise.
However, just as there have been successful airplanes with wings tilting down, nothing, except seat to bar distance considerations stops you from reversing the stem.
Odds are you'll need a stem with minimal extension, and be sure to allow for the change in rise when reversed.
Once done, expect the handling to be a bit more skittish until you adapt.
That orientation imparts a natural stability and tendency to settle to level (straight ahead) when not pushed otherwise.
However, just as there have been successful airplanes with wings tilting down, nothing, except seat to bar distance considerations stops you from reversing the stem.
Odds are you'll need a stem with minimal extension, and be sure to allow for the change in rise when reversed.
Once done, expect the handling to be a bit more skittish until you adapt.
#12
Whippersnapper
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 39
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From: Oregon
Bikes: 1987? Diamondback Ascent, 1987? Stout, 2023 Bike Friday, 2012 Surly Ogre
I'm glad to see you got your bike more comfortable!
For what it's worth, you can ride a bike with the stem pointing backwards just fine. It helps if the stem does not have a large horizontal extension. If it is too long or your frame doesn't have enough reach you can run into knee clearance issues as other posters warned. With your stem it's not an issue, but non-adjustable stems put the handlebars lower than they were with the stem forwards when flipped backwards. I have a Surly that is a little too large for me (it was a really good deal), and I've ridden it with a backwards 40mm stem for a bit over a thousand miles. That includes several hundred miles of touring.
I think the handling issues of a bike with a hand position behind the steering axis are often exaggerated. One of my more ridden bikes is an old mountain bike with strongly swept upright handlebars. It is definitely different than a forward position, but the changes in handling are not hard to adjust to. The main everyday problem is knee clearance, which shows up at low speeds. I do have had to avoid putting weight on the bars when descending quickly. Hill climbing and standing up while pedaling have not been issues for me.
For what it's worth, you can ride a bike with the stem pointing backwards just fine. It helps if the stem does not have a large horizontal extension. If it is too long or your frame doesn't have enough reach you can run into knee clearance issues as other posters warned. With your stem it's not an issue, but non-adjustable stems put the handlebars lower than they were with the stem forwards when flipped backwards. I have a Surly that is a little too large for me (it was a really good deal), and I've ridden it with a backwards 40mm stem for a bit over a thousand miles. That includes several hundred miles of touring.
I think the handling issues of a bike with a hand position behind the steering axis are often exaggerated. One of my more ridden bikes is an old mountain bike with strongly swept upright handlebars. It is definitely different than a forward position, but the changes in handling are not hard to adjust to. The main everyday problem is knee clearance, which shows up at low speeds. I do have had to avoid putting weight on the bars when descending quickly. Hill climbing and standing up while pedaling have not been issues for me.
#14
Dirty Heathen

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From: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
Glad it worked out for the OP;
I’ve used those tall, adjustable stems when building adaptive bikes for riders with disabilities or other mobility issues. I usually start out with a slightly undersized frame for ease of mounting/dismounting and starting/stopping, so I have to make the bike “bigger” and more upright.
I never liked the T-handle look of a flat, straight bar on top of a skyscraper stack of a steerer extension and a near-vertical angled stem, though; I like to fit a riser bar if I need to get a lot of height without adapters or super-tall stems.
Even my personal “Kruizer” has a mid-rise moto bar on a 50mm BMX stem for that high, wide riding position. I might be almost 50, but I don’t want to ride an “Old Man” bike

This thing is almost 4 ft tall at the grips (44”) and I’m only 5-10; it’s up there
I’ve used those tall, adjustable stems when building adaptive bikes for riders with disabilities or other mobility issues. I usually start out with a slightly undersized frame for ease of mounting/dismounting and starting/stopping, so I have to make the bike “bigger” and more upright.
I never liked the T-handle look of a flat, straight bar on top of a skyscraper stack of a steerer extension and a near-vertical angled stem, though; I like to fit a riser bar if I need to get a lot of height without adapters or super-tall stems.
Even my personal “Kruizer” has a mid-rise moto bar on a 50mm BMX stem for that high, wide riding position. I might be almost 50, but I don’t want to ride an “Old Man” bike


This thing is almost 4 ft tall at the grips (44”) and I’m only 5-10; it’s up there
#16
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Maybe look into some swallow handlebars.
Unique garagedoor opener setup there.
Unique garagedoor opener setup there.
#17
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I'm glad to see you got your bike more comfortable!
For what it's worth, you can ride a bike with the stem pointing backwards just fine. It helps if the stem does not have a large horizontal extension. If it is too long or your frame doesn't have enough reach you can run into knee clearance issues as other posters warned. With your stem it's not an issue, but non-adjustable stems put the handlebars lower than they were with the stem forwards when flipped backwards. I have a Surly that is a little too large for me (it was a really good deal), and I've ridden it with a backwards 40mm stem for a bit over a thousand miles. That includes several hundred miles of touring.
I think the handling issues of a bike with a hand position behind the steering axis are often exaggerated. One of my more ridden bikes is an old mountain bike with strongly swept upright handlebars. It is definitely different than a forward position, but the changes in handling are not hard to adjust to. The main everyday problem is knee clearance, which shows up at low speeds. I do have had to avoid putting weight on the bars when descending quickly. Hill climbing and standing up while pedaling have not been issues for me.
For what it's worth, you can ride a bike with the stem pointing backwards just fine. It helps if the stem does not have a large horizontal extension. If it is too long or your frame doesn't have enough reach you can run into knee clearance issues as other posters warned. With your stem it's not an issue, but non-adjustable stems put the handlebars lower than they were with the stem forwards when flipped backwards. I have a Surly that is a little too large for me (it was a really good deal), and I've ridden it with a backwards 40mm stem for a bit over a thousand miles. That includes several hundred miles of touring.
I think the handling issues of a bike with a hand position behind the steering axis are often exaggerated. One of my more ridden bikes is an old mountain bike with strongly swept upright handlebars. It is definitely different than a forward position, but the changes in handling are not hard to adjust to. The main everyday problem is knee clearance, which shows up at low speeds. I do have had to avoid putting weight on the bars when descending quickly. Hill climbing and standing up while pedaling have not been issues for me.
#18
No matter how far back the handlebars are swept, if the stem is in the normal position - pointing forward - the axis of rotation when you turn is still in front of the steer tube, not behind it as it would be if the stem was reversed. So your handling claim doesn't really address what would happen if the stem was reversed.
The only thing I see changing mechanically is the size and position in space of the circle, always centered on and perpendicular to the steerer tube's axis . How the rider's body fits the different mechanical possiblities and the degrees of leverage and stability (how the rider goes about holding on to the circle) they offer are separate issues.
Last edited by Paul_P; 08-13-23 at 07:43 AM.
#19
Whippersnapper
Joined: Jun 2023
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From: Oregon
Bikes: 1987? Diamondback Ascent, 1987? Stout, 2023 Bike Friday, 2012 Surly Ogre
It seems to me that the axis of rotation can't be anything other than the steerer tube itself. Handlebar grips move on a single circle centered on and perpendicular to the axis of this tube and can be in front, behind or beside the axis. The diameter of the circle is the shortest distance between a grip and the steerer tube axis.
You can't move the axis, because it is welded/brazed/bonded firmly onto your frame. If you need to find the axis of rotation of a part on a bike, it is usually where the bearings are.
The idea that the shape of the connection changes the behavior, even though the relationship between the axis of rotation and the point you're applying force to is the same, is the one that brought us L-shaped crank arms like these. It's been pretty thoroughly disproven.
#20
Sock Puppet
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#21
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I have ridden a bikd with backward stem with no handling problems.
We adjust well to changes in the lever arm about the steering axis.
People ride these with no problem, and the grips are WAY back!
We adjust well to changes in the lever arm about the steering axis.
People ride these with no problem, and the grips are WAY back!
#22
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From: Maryland
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Recumbents have the hand grips well behind the steering axis. They call it the tiller effect. With the exception of aforementioned knee clearance it is really no different that having the bars in front of the steering tube.
If that adjustable stem starts to creak you might consider a stem riser
If that adjustable stem starts to creak you might consider a stem riser
#23
Glad it worked out for the OP;
I’ve used those tall, adjustable stems when building adaptive bikes for riders with disabilities or other mobility issues. I usually start out with a slightly undersized frame for ease of mounting/dismounting and starting/stopping, so I have to make the bike “bigger” and more upright.
I never liked the T-handle look of a flat, straight bar on top of a skyscraper stack of a steerer extension and a near-vertical angled stem, though; I like to fit a riser bar if I need to get a lot of height without adapters or super-tall stems.
Even my personal “Kruizer” has a mid-rise moto bar on a 50mm BMX stem for that high, wide riding position. I might be almost 50, but I don’t want to ride an “Old Man” bike

This thing is almost 4 ft tall at the grips (44”) and I’m only 5-10; it’s up there
I’ve used those tall, adjustable stems when building adaptive bikes for riders with disabilities or other mobility issues. I usually start out with a slightly undersized frame for ease of mounting/dismounting and starting/stopping, so I have to make the bike “bigger” and more upright.
I never liked the T-handle look of a flat, straight bar on top of a skyscraper stack of a steerer extension and a near-vertical angled stem, though; I like to fit a riser bar if I need to get a lot of height without adapters or super-tall stems.
Even my personal “Kruizer” has a mid-rise moto bar on a 50mm BMX stem for that high, wide riding position. I might be almost 50, but I don’t want to ride an “Old Man” bike


This thing is almost 4 ft tall at the grips (44”) and I’m only 5-10; it’s up there
#24
Dirty Heathen

Joined: Oct 2015
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From: MC-778, 6250 fsw
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