STI Lever/disc caliper compatibly?
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STI Lever/disc caliper compatibly?
Hi folks,
I have a bunch of 10 speed Shimano 105 (5600/5700) components & recently got a 700c disc brake road wheelset. Are there any disc brake calipers that will work with the 5600 or 5700 lever/shifter combo? Certainly would like to tryout a disc brake road bike.
Thanks & regards,
Van
I have a bunch of 10 speed Shimano 105 (5600/5700) components & recently got a 700c disc brake road wheelset. Are there any disc brake calipers that will work with the 5600 or 5700 lever/shifter combo? Certainly would like to tryout a disc brake road bike.
Thanks & regards,
Van
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You need road disc brake calipers, because of the difference in cable pull between an MTB cable lever and a road cable lever. The TRP Spyre is generally regarded as great balance between price and function.
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Hi folks,
I have a bunch of 10 speed Shimano 105 (5600/5700) components & recently got a 700c disc brake road wheelset. Are there any disc brake calipers that will work with the 5600 or 5700 lever/shifter combo? Certainly would like to tryout a disc brake road bike.
Thanks & regards,
Van
I have a bunch of 10 speed Shimano 105 (5600/5700) components & recently got a 700c disc brake road wheelset. Are there any disc brake calipers that will work with the 5600 or 5700 lever/shifter combo? Certainly would like to tryout a disc brake road bike.
Thanks & regards,
Van
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Hi Van,
For a Shimano alternative you could look at their BR-R517 cable pull calipers. I picked up a pair of these fairly cheap and run them with Tiagra 4600 shifters and they do a great job.
For a Shimano alternative you could look at their BR-R517 cable pull calipers. I picked up a pair of these fairly cheap and run them with Tiagra 4600 shifters and they do a great job.
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TRP Spyre, Paul Klamper, Growtac Equal, TRP HY/RD or BB7 Road would be good options. Shimano Mechanical calipers always have looked terrible unfortunately. Probably fine enough brakes (so long as not tourney or similar level) but all the others listed are good well regarded brakes.
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Next step info?
Hi folks,
I have a bunch of 10 speed Shimano 105 (5600/5700) components & recently got a 700c disc brake road wheelset. Are there any disc brake calipers that will work with the 5600 or 5700 lever/shifter combo? Certainly would like to tryout a disc brake road bike.
Thanks & regards,
Van
I have a bunch of 10 speed Shimano 105 (5600/5700) components & recently got a 700c disc brake road wheelset. Are there any disc brake calipers that will work with the 5600 or 5700 lever/shifter combo? Certainly would like to tryout a disc brake road bike.
Thanks & regards,
Van
Cheers,
Van
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Last edited by Senior Ryder 00; 11-08-23 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Add info
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If you want to go really high zoot, there’s always Paul’s Klampers. You can even get arms to change the pull. Now, are they worth three times more than the TRP Spyre? Maybe. Maybe not. They are great brakes.
Last edited by Rick; 11-08-23 at 09:36 PM.
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Any particular style or frame material you’re after? I have an older Velo Orange pass hunter I like. Soma and Surly also have steel options. Otherwise most major manufacturers will have offerings in aluminum or carbon. Of course if you already have wheels you’ll want something compatible with those.
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TRP Spyre, Paul Klamper, Growtac Equal, TRP HY/RD or BB7 Road would be good options. Shimano Mechanical calipers always have looked terrible unfortunately. Probably fine enough brakes (so long as not tourney or similar level) but all the others listed are good well regarded brakes.
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The Klampers are worth every penny. Prior to purchasing them I couldn't find a real review were somebody answered the questions instead of pouting about the price and cracking on the one piston design. I recently found a review were the reviewer setup the Paul Klampers and accidently set them up the way I did By using the Yokozuna Reaction cable housing. They have really good stopping and modulation as good as some hydros.
I read the review you linked to and I gotta say that I think the author took some literary liberties. I don’t know what kind of mechanic he is either. I’ve installed them on 4 bikes now and I’ve never experienced anything like “… installed them and did the initial 2 rides (30 miles total) right before I left for an event in Oregon. They weren’t stopping really great and were a bit noisy.” Mine were ready to go out of the box and stopped well from the first time they were applied. I’m not a believer in the whole “pads need to be bedded” thing either. I’ve had many disc brakes and not a one of them performed poorly from the first application of the brake.
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Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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Any particular style or frame material you’re after? I have an older Velo Orange pass hunter I like. Soma and Surly also have steel options. Otherwise most major manufacturers will have offerings in aluminum or carbon. Of course if you already have wheels you’ll want something compatible with those.
Best match to my riding style would be what use to be called “sport touring” geometry. May now apply to gravel bikes. Either steel or aluminum. My townie is an old aluminum Giant Iguana with discs. Everything else is steel. Don’t particularly care for hybrids.
I have tendonitis in my shoulders & it is aggravated by stiff frames. I have two Waterford Paramounts that I can only ride for short distances.
Thanks for the feedback.
Cheers,
Van
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I have 4 bikes with Klampers. I like the brake and it works well. They have a very nice bling factor but they just don’t function that much better than far less expensive brakes. It’s not that the less expensive brakes function poorly…far from it. Avid BB7 or TRP Spyre are excellent brakes. They just happen to cost less. The TRPs aren’t my favorite due to their delicate pad adjusters but they function well.
#15
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Personally I'd go with the TRP Spyres over anything else. Spyres have good reliability, reasonably priced, and are a dual pull, so both brake pads move inward to clamp the rotor as opposed to the BB7 Road single side pull.The TRO HY/RD aren't worth the money. Might as well just go full hydraulic.
Make sure to run quality compression less housing. I've always used Jagwire Pro cables. You could go with their Elite Sealed, but I think it's overkill for a road bike.
Make sure to run quality compression less housing. I've always used Jagwire Pro cables. You could go with their Elite Sealed, but I think it's overkill for a road bike.
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Personally I'd go with the TRP Spyres over anything else. Spyres have good reliability, reasonably priced, and are a dual pull, so both brake pads move inward to clamp the rotor as opposed to the BB7 Road single side pull.The TRO HY/RD aren't worth the money. Might as well just go full hydraulic.
Make sure to run quality compression less housing. I've always used Jagwire Pro cables. You could go with their Elite Sealed, but I think it's overkill for a road bike.
#17
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They might not be as powerful as the Pauls, but their significantly more affordable. I consider Paul's stuff to be high end. Not everyone can afford it. I can and I'd still go with the Spyres. Power isn't everything. It's part of what's needed in a brake system. Modulation is more important than power. Locking up a wheel due to high power isn't everything you want in a brake system.
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Are you running compressionless housing with the Paul Klampers. What brake pads do you use? I am replacing the crane creek levers with the TRP levers today. I am not using the short piece of soft housing that goes in the tight curve. The Yokozuna Reaction housing doesn't flatten out in the curve like the other brands of compressionless housing. I am ordering some Trickstuff pads when in stock also.
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They might not be as powerful as the Pauls, but their significantly more affordable. I consider Paul's stuff to be high end. Not everyone can afford it. I can and I'd still go with the Spyres. Power isn't everything. It's part of what's needed in a brake system. Modulation is more important than power. Locking up a wheel due to high power isn't everything you want in a brake system.
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Hi folks,
I have a bunch of 10 speed Shimano 105 (5600/5700) components & recently got a 700c disc brake road wheelset. Are there any disc brake calipers that will work with the 5600 or 5700 lever/shifter combo? Certainly would like to tryout a disc brake road bike.
Thanks & regards,
Van
I have a bunch of 10 speed Shimano 105 (5600/5700) components & recently got a 700c disc brake road wheelset. Are there any disc brake calipers that will work with the 5600 or 5700 lever/shifter combo? Certainly would like to tryout a disc brake road bike.
Thanks & regards,
Van
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Hi,
No frame, only an aluminum fork with a 1 1/8 steerer, which I considered putting on my Ridley CX bike. I’m still looking for suggestions on a frame or frameset. Not looking for anything high $ or exotic. My only disc bike is a 2004 Giant Iguana set up as a townie with 9 X 1 gearing & 29er wheels.
Sorry for the confusion. Seems my posting became an argument about cost vs performance of disc calipers.
Cheers,
Van
No frame, only an aluminum fork with a 1 1/8 steerer, which I considered putting on my Ridley CX bike. I’m still looking for suggestions on a frame or frameset. Not looking for anything high $ or exotic. My only disc bike is a 2004 Giant Iguana set up as a townie with 9 X 1 gearing & 29er wheels.
Sorry for the confusion. Seems my posting became an argument about cost vs performance of disc calipers.
Cheers,
Van
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Hi,
No frame, only an aluminum fork with a 1 1/8 steerer, which I considered putting on my Ridley CX bike. I’m still looking for suggestions on a frame or frameset. Not looking for anything high $ or exotic. My only disc bike is a 2004 Giant Iguana set up as a townie with 9 X 1 gearing & 29er wheels.
Sorry for the confusion. Seems my posting became an argument about cost vs performance of disc calipers.
Cheers,
Van
No frame, only an aluminum fork with a 1 1/8 steerer, which I considered putting on my Ridley CX bike. I’m still looking for suggestions on a frame or frameset. Not looking for anything high $ or exotic. My only disc bike is a 2004 Giant Iguana set up as a townie with 9 X 1 gearing & 29er wheels.
Sorry for the confusion. Seems my posting became an argument about cost vs performance of disc calipers.
Cheers,
Van
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Hi Eric,
Since this is a bit of an experiment & I’m a retiree, I’d like to keep it below $250 for frameset. Looking for suggestions because I have reduced price access through the co-op where I volunteer. Also, we periodically get unique items donated.
Thanks & regards,
Van
Since this is a bit of an experiment & I’m a retiree, I’d like to keep it below $250 for frameset. Looking for suggestions because I have reduced price access through the co-op where I volunteer. Also, we periodically get unique items donated.
Thanks & regards,
Van
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Those ones look a little better but I haven't seen them in real life just in pictures. It would be tough to mistake them for hydraulics but certainly the pads would help on that front if looking from far away.
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No because I haven’t found any need for compressionless housing. The Pauls work just fine with no lack of ability nor any need for any kind of upgrade in braking power. But that’s my point about all brakes. Less expensive brakes work just as well without any further need for upgrades either.