Shadco 

I need to remove this compression plug to cut the steerer tube. I’m not sure how to remove this I will replace it with a more conventional one once I’ve cut the steerer.

Do you just knock the center portion inside the steerer down with a punch?




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Iride01 

I'd put the bolt back in and tap on that. A mallet will be better than a hammer so you don't ding up the end of the bolt. Also be careful not to give a glancing blow that bends the bolt.

If your punch fits inside the socket of the bolt without touching the sides of the socket, then use the punch with the bolt installed.

But no guaranties on that being the way that expansion plug works. But I'd attempt it.

Shadco 

Yeah a deep socket that fits inside the outer ring makes more sense and I have a plastic mallet which is what I would start with. I have to think the center piece is tapered to expand the outer sleeve against the steerer tube can’t think of any other way that Rube Goldberg contraption would work.

I have a nice s-works compression plug to use after I cut the steerer and it is a good fit..

Thanks

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curbtender

Am I seeing a shim?

Iride01 

If that center part is the wedge then yes that would be the better thing. I was thinking the wedge was below that piece. I can't tell from the pic if I'm seeing the thread in that same piece through the hole or a separate threaded piece below.

Iride01 

Of course now that I'm puzzling about the spring in the 2nd picture, I'm wondering if the wedge is inverted and tapping on it would actually tighten it. But that'd be a bizarre design to me. And even harder to loosen from above.

Surprised no one else jumped in that has actually seen that type of expander plug. I know I haven't.

Shadco 

I think the wedge is below the outer piece but threading the bolt in and applying upward pressure might be the first thing to try.

Its 2005 ish vintage, I don’t think it came with the Chris King headset, Easton EC90 SL fork, or the Easton EA 70 stem.

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FBinNY 

The three expanding parts (2 cones + expansion tube, or shoes) are still home, with friction keeping them tight. As mentioned, you need to push the LOWER cone down.

This is best done using the bolt, being sure to leave room for it to drop. I prefer to prevent damage to the bolt by leaving the kex key in place and tapping on that. No great force is needed, so a block of wood, or a light hammer will do.

Sometimes the upper cone also sticks, but usually frees itself if you insert a Philips screwdriver and tilt it a bit.

Lastly, the tube itself may stick. Sometimes you can use a finger to ease it up, otherwise use anything with a hook to get behind it and pull. I keep a long toggle bolt specifically for stubborn expansion sleeves.

Shadco 

Thinking if it applies downward pressure against the outer sleeve wouldn’t tightening the head cap bolt without the spring pull it up?

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FBinNY 

The spring is there to help start the compression. Once it firms up, friction keeps it together, though there's always the risk of the top cone popping loose from vibration if the spring didn't keep it home.

Shadco 

thanks for the explanation.

so does the bolt only threads into the bottom cone?

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FBinNY 

Yes, it's pulling the bottom cone up into the sleeve, with the top cone kept in place by the spring and friction.

Note, once everything is adjusted and the stem clamped, the entire assembly is no longer needed. However, without the spring, the upper cone could get loose and rattle around, which may be annoying.

Shadco 

So it really is a substandard design imo. Seems it should be deep enough to support the entire height of the stem clamp I am happy that it is out and will be replaced by this once I cut the steerer tube. It does appear to be an Easton EC90 SL fork compression plug. It doesn’t really have a top cone, just a plate.







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Andrew R Stewart 

What I dislike with this type of pressure plug is the one bolt doing two jobs aspect. These can slide upwards, inside the top of the steerer, while trying to draw down the top cap and apply bearing preload. If the friction between the expanding band and the steerer's ID is less than that of the bolt, plug's end cones and band unit the plug will often just spin inside the steerer and the expanding band never end up gripping the steerer ID.

The pressure plug version that has a separate bolt working the band (or shoes) against the steerer ID and then the top cap's draw bolt threads down inside that first bolt. Set the plug where you want it and then set the preload free of any plug migration.

The tall black one looks to have the two bolt design I prefer, although a funky flange at its top that suggests some interfacing with a spec stem... Andy

Shadco 

No interface with the stem just an arrow pointing forward. I have the same on on my Aethos and my Look. They come with S-Works stems and one came with the Aethos fork.

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Andrew R Stewart 

Must be that I have drank the Trek Koolaid the last 10+ years, not the Specialized stuff Andy

SoSmellyAir

I did not know there were steerer expansion plugs where a single bolt both secures the top cap and expands the expansion plug. As you explained above, this would be a poor design where all components were located just right for the expander to work. I was gonna suggest Shadco to try a smaller hex key (for loosening) with reference to just the top photo, but I guess that would have been to no avail.