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Quick link use on older chains
Is it frowned on to use a 6 speed quick link on an older chain that is continuously pinned with no link. Putting the chains back together by pressing the pin back in seems like a weak link so to speak. Since we are talking 3/32” inner plate distances are they pretty much the same? Would one measure a pin that was pushed out to confirm that it is the same diameter as the quick link? just wondering.
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I'm sorry I cant answer your question, but the method of pushing the pin back through was the way it was always done bitd. OTOH, I see they make 6-7-8 speed chains with quick link fasteners. That's what I'd do if I were to have a 6 or 7 speed bike, although I reconnected many a chain years ago by pushing the pin back in, never with any problems.
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Years before SRAM, Shimano or KMC came out with their connecting links there were specific (and claimed to be so much better...) connecting links on the market (at least here in the USA). The Super Link is one example that had its few seasons of availability back around 1980. Even back then they offered at least two different inner widths, although IIRC that reference was brand/model specific VS a measured dimension.
As rear cogs lost center to center dimension (more crap in the old space) the outer width of the inner plate and bushing has also become narrower. Thinner side plates, both inner and outer. This is why current connecting links are made in differing widths, to not rub on adjacent cogs. In my world as long as the connecting link is properly sized it can be used in place of a pin pushed in place assembly. Have you measured the real width of your chain? Andy |
I was basically referring to the common 6-7 speeds that are quite popular on our vintage bikes. It is with these that we encounter the Sedis and other chains from the later 70s to the 80s with no links. I am working on an 84 Torpado with low miles that has a very dirty and neglected and gunked up driveline. Taking it all apart for cleaning makes sense, and I like how the quick links allow it to go back together. So I am talking 6 speed chain and using a 6-7 speed link. With it being friction, I would think the link would be within .2-.3mm of the chain thickness. I was perhaps a bit more concerned about the pin diameter matching the pin diameter of the older chains.
edit; I just measured the old chain to be 8mm at the pins and 7mm at the plates. The SRAM and KMC links I believe are in the 7.1- 7.4 mm range perhaps which I would think is close enough as it is slightly narrower which seems as though it would be safer that way. Pin pressed almost out to separate old chain was about 3.62mm as was the quick link. I guess I wanted reassurance that this was an acceptable practice. |
I use "Missing Link" connector on my Giant with 6spd freewheel. The quick link didn't come with the chain but because I wax my chains I needed something easier than driving a pin in and out all the time. Plus I'm too frugal to purchase those fancy reusable pins and I don't trust reusing existing pin repeatedly. The quick link or missing link system is what I've gone to on all of my bikes.
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Bob Lickton invented the modern clipless connector, aka the Lickton Link, way BITD. The original design had 2 mailing halves, each with a pin and keyhole slot. Chain tension kept it together in use. Sram licensed the design and modified it to have a snap fit.
In any case, I'm sure if you searched 6s connecting link you'll find one that works for you. |
Originally Posted by sd5782
(Post 23157069)
Is it frowned on to use a 6 speed quick link on an older chain that is continuously pinned with no link. Putting the chains back together by pressing the pin back in seems like a weak link so to speak. Since we are talking 3/32” inner plate distances are they pretty much the same? Would one measure a pin that was pushed out to confirm that it is the same diameter as the quick link? just wondering.
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A note of caution:
Calling something a "6 speed chain" does not mean that the chain has certain dimension shared with all other 6 speed chains, it may just mean that it shifts fine on a six speed freewheel. So if you buy a "6, 7 and 8 speed chain", that's really an 8 speed chain dimensionally. It will work great on 8, 7, 6 and 5 speed cogs of any type. A true 6 speed chain from 1988 is much wider, and that extra width is mainly in the side plate thickness. That thickness allowed the pins to hold just from friction. When Shimano came out with their 8 speed systems, the new spacing required side plates too thin to reliably re-pin. That's why we have one-use pins and quick links. I don't know if there are any quick links that are reliably compatible with 1980s width 6 speed chains. There might be, but since no one makes those width chains anymore and they don't need quick links or special pins - I doubt it. |
Theoretically if the side plates are thinner on the quick link, would it matter? It is only attached to the thicker side plate chain by the pins. That kinda is the basis of my original question. The pin and the inner width of the chain is the same on both, and the side plates of the quick link. just connects to itself. Once per revolution the slightly thinner link would pass by, but perhaps have little effect unlike perhaps a thicker link??
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Originally Posted by sd5782
(Post 23158097)
Theoretically if the side plates are thinner on the quick link, would it matter? I??.....
Connectors vary in terms of the usable length of their pins to match the inner links that they fit. As Kontact noted, many chains are marketed as 6s/7s/8s meaning they're narrow enough for 7s & 8s and will also we work for 6s which is wider. So, you need one says 6s, or 5s/6s. Better yet, measure the outside of the inner link, and buy based on that. |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 23158113)
It's not about the outer plates being thicker or thinner. It's the width of the inner block ---- 2 plates rollers ---- that drives the bus here.
Connectors vary in terms of the usable length of their pins to match the inner links that they fit. As Kontact noted, many chains are marketed as 6s/7s/8s meaning they're narrow enough for 7s & 8s and will also we work for 6s which is wider. So, you need one says 6s, or 5s/6s. Better yet, measure the outside of the inner link, and buy based on that. "Need one says 6s" - one what? I don't think there are any true 6 speed quick links, and no one 'needs' a 6 speed chain to operate 6 speed freewheels. If you want to use old 6 speed chains, you'll be using a chain tool to put it together, not a special link or pin. And if you want to use a link, buy a 6/7/8 speed chain that comes with one and use that. There's no other practical solutions. |
Pinned or Quick Links or the ChiCom knock Offs all seam to work well. When I am not using the quick links I use a screw driver to set the plates in proper position after setting the pin. My only note on the quick Links is don't reuse them. I went years reusing my Quick Links and then had three failures. They can be reused but for me its not by choice...
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Originally Posted by Kontact
(Post 23158152)
Just to clarify, the inner width of the chain where the cog teeth go are the same on 5 through 11 speed. ......
I'm not talking about the sprocket width. I'm talking about the outer width of the inner link. Or the inner width of the outer link, which is the same plus a working clearance |
How many times are you going to be removing and putting the same chain back on? You have about 110 to 120 different pins you can push out each time. But you might be able to find a appropriate quick link to fit your chain. BITD of 7 speed chains, my one and only experience with a quick link wasn't good. But 40 years later, I'd think they might have gotten better.
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Not yet mentioned as a reason why the wider 5/6 speed chains of the1970s and early 1980s (which often measured at about 7.8mm pin length) is the chain ring center to center amount. I have replaced those old spec chains with "modern" 7.3/7.1mm wide ones and have found that when shifting off the big ring the narrower chain can end up riding the tops of the smaller ring teeth. As though you shifted into "neutral". For a rider not expecting this loss of pedal support (the force to move the bike forward) can cause a fall down at worst and a stalling on a hill. The wider "classic" 5/6 speed chains wouldn't do this to anywhere the same amount. But good luck finding a new one. Andy
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Originally Posted by grumpus
(Post 23157385)
Get the right width quick link and it will work fine, but there's really no need for it, or advantage - if you use it often you'll also be replacing it often, most are only intended to be used a couple of times.
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 23158334)
I thought I was clear, but to be sure-----
I'm not talking about the sprocket width. I'm talking about the outer width of the inner link. Or the inner width of the outer link, which is the same plus a working clearance |
No harm, no foul.
I read you as possibly having misread my post, and figured that you might not be the only one. So I took the opportunity to nail it down tighter. |
Originally Posted by sd5782
(Post 23157069)
Is it frowned on to use a 6 speed quick link on an older chain that is continuously pinned with no link. Putting the chains back together by pressing the pin back in seems like a weak link so to speak. Since we are talking 3/32” inner plate distances are they pretty much the same? Would one measure a pin that was pushed out to confirm that it is the same diameter as the quick link? just wondering.
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 23159076)
No pin should be pushed back into a chain. ‘Tis a silly practice.
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 23159076)
A 6/7/8 speed link will work with a 6/7/8 speed chain. I bought about 100 of them from AliExpress for my local co-op so that people would quit messing up the chains and, more importantly, the pins on the chain tools. No pin should be pushed back into a chain. ‘Tis a silly practice.
Edited to add: I misspoke, on my recent 2x7 build I used the quick link, I just noticed that yesterday. |
Originally Posted by grumpus
(Post 23159561)
There's no reason not to if you're competent using a chain tool; I have the Cyclo alignment accessory but it doesn't get used. My 7 speed bikes don't get quick links, they're just not necessary or helpful.
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Originally Posted by grumpus
(Post 23159561)
There's no reason not to if you're competent using a chain tool; I have the Cyclo alignment accessory but it doesn't get used. My 7 speed bikes don't get quick links, they're just not necessary or helpful.
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 23159900)
It’s been 25 to 30 years since chains could widely have the pin pushed out and be pushed back in again. 9 speed chain and on have universally used peened pins which should not be handled in that way. In general, quick links should be used and they are widely available for the 6/7/8 chains for older bikes or even modern bikes with 7 speed freewheels. They are also just easier to use.
Peened pins began with Shimano's 4.8mm spaced 8 speed system, not 9. It didn't come to Campy until 9 because their 8 speed was 7 speed spaced. But the one time pins go back to 1990 Dura Ace. |
Originally Posted by Kontact
(Post 23159902)
Lots of people have old chains - I have a bunch of old Suntour 6 speed chains NOS. There is no other option with those chains, so suggesting that connecting those chains the only way they can be connected is somehow dangerous boggles the mind.
I never implied that it was “dangerous” to push pins back in but it can lead to chain failure on more modern chains. There also is nothing keeping people from using 6/7/8 speed quick links on old 6 speed chains. It’s still a better way of putting a chain together. Peened pins began with Shimano's 4.8mm spaced 8 speed system, not 9. It didn't come to Campy until 9 because their 8 speed was 7 speed spaced. But the one time pins go back to 1990 Dura Ace. |
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