Sturmey archer S2C - trouble shifting after disassembly ..
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Sturmey archer S2C - trouble shifting after disassembly ..
I took my S2C apart to re-grease it after it got slightly immersed in a river (!) .
Everything looked perfect.
However, After reassembly, the shifting is poor.
It feels like the coaster engages too easily now. Making it hard to get far enough back pedalling to shift.
Shifting can take 2-3 attempts before it happens.
If I am cruising along, and carefully and controlled-ly back pedal slowly - I can make a clean shift. But that's tough in traffic .
And when pedalling in the high gear - It now makes a noise like when you leave your keys in the washing machine
It was suggested to try orientate the planetary gears with the rollers as per the sturmey archer exploded diagram.
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files...%20-%20S2C.pdf
This worked, but since then, each ride, the hub has become more deranged.
I am keen to try again, but would like to go in with a plan... Would be super grateful if anyone could suggest anything?
Many thanks,
Max
Everything looked perfect.
However, After reassembly, the shifting is poor.
It feels like the coaster engages too easily now. Making it hard to get far enough back pedalling to shift.
Shifting can take 2-3 attempts before it happens.
If I am cruising along, and carefully and controlled-ly back pedal slowly - I can make a clean shift. But that's tough in traffic .
And when pedalling in the high gear - It now makes a noise like when you leave your keys in the washing machine
It was suggested to try orientate the planetary gears with the rollers as per the sturmey archer exploded diagram.
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files...%20-%20S2C.pdf
This worked, but since then, each ride, the hub has become more deranged.
I am keen to try again, but would like to go in with a plan... Would be super grateful if anyone could suggest anything?
Many thanks,
Max
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,927
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 141 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5898 Post(s)
Liked 2,762 Times
in
1,543 Posts
I've never worked on that particular hub, but have on coaster brakes generally. I wonder, if you've somehow overly reduced the travel of the clutch, so there's no longer enough travel for a shift without applying the brake.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 05-12-24 at 02:45 PM.
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Yea, that sounds about right. I think I can change the travel by adjusting the relative rotational position of the planetary gears and the rollers. However, I think their positions start to shift over time. I need to figure out if there is some kind of mechanism that stops each segment rotating once reassembled