So sh*tty
I mean, what's your trick for keeping those 3 idiotically spec'd 25 Torx bolts tight so cranks don't creak?
When creak first discovered I pulled it all apart cleaned up T-bolts and insert threads then re-torqued with blue Locktite.
Not even 500km later.....
So I'll have to do it all again but use red Locktite instead.
That fails I'm gonna' tooth up all the mating surfaces with abrasive and then mix up some G/flex thickened with collodial silica, slather it on where spider mates to crank, dab some on the bolts and bolt it all together.
Come to think of it I might also throw some 4 oz cloth in there and smash it down.

I don't recall offhand if the b/b in my Baseline is Praxis or generic. Is press fit - so, any old double road crank with a 30mm spindle will fit?

What did Praxis Works say about it? I would reach out to them if you are having issues. They might have some tips and tricks or ability to help out. In my experiences with Praxis they have been pretty helpful so it is worth reaching ou to them.

You could swap to a different crank if you wanted but I would figure out the issue on this one with them first and see if anything can be done.

If it’s definitely the chainring bolts creaking, I’d try grease on the threads instead of loctite. They shouldn’t be loosening if torqued properly.

It's not the c/r bolts.

It's the three Torx 25 fasteners that hold the spider to the crank arm.

For those unfamiliar with the crank in question (like me) here's a link of the manual showing what the OP is talking about with the 3 Torx screws. M30-ROAD-CRANK-DM-1X-2X-DIGITAL-REVN.pdf (praxiscycles.com)

The solution still might be to grease the threads, and all metal to metal contact surfaces. This is a trick I learned on my first good bike decades ago. I've followed that approach an never have clicks or creaks.

+1. The manual even states that the spline/chainring interface requires grease.

Didn’t realize that’s the type of crankset we’re talking about but my advice remains the same.