Have a Giant carbon fibre frame where the rear bolt securing the rear wheel hashad it s thread stripped.
No purchase available to turn the bolt to remove the rear wheel. Need to remove the wheel before shipping back to UK after a competition.
Opposite side of the bolt also stripped.
Any ideas on how to get the bolt removed or the back wheel off?

Do you have a drill and large drill bit? The last resort for bolt removal is to drill it out. Do know that if done poorly the threaded hole the bolt is in can also be damaged.

Can you create a slot in either end for a "screw driver" type of effort?

I am assuming the wheel uses a through axle but as it really hasn't been said.... Andy

Can you edit your posts better before hitting "send"? The spelling/keystroke errors are distracting at the best and confusing at worst.

Yea Andy it's a through bolt.
I was wondering whether we could cut a new thread on the opposite side, screw in another bolt and see if we can use that to tighten on that side which might unscrew the bolt that way.
Not sure there would be enough torque to make it work after thinning things out
Don't think there is enough room to cut.a slot s the frame's going to get in the way.

This is a thru-axle, isn't it?

If the far end can be seen then have someone take something that can fit through the hole of the bike frame and push on the thru-axle while you turn the other side with a hex key or what ever is appropriate.

Or is it the hex socket that is stripped? If so, maybe the quickest way would be to jam a torx bit in it or just get some epoxy resin or epoxy glue and glue the hex key in.

I suspect you're talking about a rounded hex socket in a thru axle rather than actual stripped threads. My first attack would be to drill the socket and use an ez-out (tapered screw with left handed thread) to remove the axle in the normal way. They're $9.99 for a set of 5 left handed drill bits and 5 extractors in Harbor Freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-...3987&store=429

Any local Auto Parts or Hardware Store will have these.
you might not even need to drill a hole for one of the correct size...
and sometimes the reverse drill bit removes the offending screw, bolt, stripped-out though axle, etc.

you'll need to borrow or buy a reversible drill motor too.

Haven't seem the frame or wheel, but it should be possible to decapitate the bolt using a drill of the same diameter (or slightly smaller) than the shank. That will free the wheel allowing you to go home and do a more proper job to remove the stud at your convenience.

With the head on the left dropout and its threads on the right dropout, how you get the shaft out of the way of the hub?

As I said, I hadn't seen the specific arrangement. However the same basic principle would apply, doing ONLY the necessary to free the wheel, with minimal collateral damage, then doing a proper job later.

That might involve drilling out both sides, ie. decapitate one side, and/or pilot drill and fracture the other, or otherwise, but in a way that expensive parts are minimally damaged.

Should the OP provide photos of both sides, I might be able to offer more specific advice, but see no point in arguing otherwise.

BTW- I must have missed your post offering constructive ideas.

For those unfamiliar, this is what a thru axle looks like:


Mareplamum, sometimes thru axles have a second allen wrench hole on the threaded end. From that end you turn counterclockwise to loosen.

So the head is stripped, and not the threads? If so, measure twice, drill once. I've used the automotive reverse drill thingies, but I like a drill press better. I quote these based on a % of the frame price, they can be tricky.

I believe this is what the OP is saying as has already been figured out by previous posters but just sayin' to clarify for those new to the thread.

I wonder if the OP missed the flight back to the UK. Or was it just the bike that had to go?

Actually counter-counter-clockwise.😁