Hi guys, I'm struggling to get crank off with this square taper puller I bought off Amazon. It came with a top hat but no idea if that is for different size square tapered thread?

Anyway, I had a go with its top hat off and the part (on the crack puller removal tool) that pushes against the spindle to get the crank off has
started to round off?

Is this normal or is this tool poor quality?

Here is a link to an actual crank tool. Park Tool The page has instructions and links so maybe it will help you figure if your tool can work.

this is normal for a cheap tool...

and you may have damaged the BB spindle threads too.

the top hat is typically for use with a different spindle design... shimano octalink, or FSA Isis spindles... round, larger, and they use splines instead of a square taper...
if the hat's brim won't fit into the square part, the hat is definitely for the round splined spindles.

i used to put a small washer inside the square between the spindle and the puller's ram... that protected the spindle's internal threads...

my Park CCP-22 crank tool doesn't mess up the threads.

Yes i assumed this until I was able to thread the Alan key nut (dust cover) back into the spindle threads, so the threads must be ok.

It seems this tool rounds off with some people who have used it according to the reviews on amazon making it a one time use tool.

I doubt i will be continuing with it and might have to burn a hole in my pocket for a park tool brand

I bought the Park tool in 1987 and it is still fine today (although it doesn't see much use with modern cranksets). I did nearly destroy a crankset with it when I first tried it out. Thread it ALL the way in.

The ones the crank bolts or nuts tighten down on.

Pedros works great

At $16 (plus whatever you already spent on Amazon), your pocket should be able to recover.

What Polaris said above…
make sure the center piece is unscrewed all the way so that you can screw the outer piece all the way into the crank. The center can prevent that if it’s screwed in a bit. The outer needs to be completely screwed in and seated . Then screw the center in.

Dan

Cheap tools are the ones that burn a hole in your pocket good quality tools that last are super cheap because when used properly they don't damage components and last a long time. Tools should last a long time so you aren't buying them several times or having to replace parts that get destroyed.

Me personally I would probably get a CWP-7 and make sure you use the proper tools to use it. I try to avoid using adjustable spanners when possible but if you do be very careful. However the Park CP-22 or 44 (for splined stuff) is just fine and the handle is nice if you don't worry about space but in my travel kit I am probably going to end up with the CWP-7 for portability.

agree - I have some non-Park version of the CWP-7 that I’ve had for ~40 years - I like the ability to use a ratchet or extension if more leverage is required.

Thanks guys for all the information.....

Well I have just broke the bank and bought this CCP-22, don't think I will ever risk using anything portable that requires spanners on a crank again, The CCP-22 arrived today and I hope it works straight off the bat, up to now iv seen people using hammers on the CCP-22 to release the crank so I doubt this will be a 30 second job, I have hope in Calvin Jones!

In my toolbox, I use a M8x1 stud (created by sawing the head off a crank bolt) which I thread into the spindle prior to pulling the crank to protect the threads. Works well most of the time.

Again no breaking the bank, it is the cheap tools that break the bank. With the CCP-22 you should NOT need to use a hammer and those using a hammer probably may not be using the tool correctly or have some damage somewhere. Use the tool correctly and it will work fine. Just make sure it is properly tightened on the crank first really make sure it is nice and tight or you risk pulling out threads.

Calvin Jones is a master mechanic and a mechanics instructor and I believe an owner at Park Tool, it would be tough for him to steer you wrong.

Well I'm struggling to get this crank off even with the CCP-22. I have made sure no washer has been left when taking the dust cover off (removed with Alan Key). It seems there is not enough leverage, or the CPP-22 is not flush with the spindle and it's pushing against the spindle and crank? But why would it as the CCP-22 is for square tapers which is what mine is.

​​​​​​ With one hand holding the peddle and the other on the CPP-22 it's back breaking work. I'm now squrting penetrating oil down the back of the spindle and leaving it for a few hours (no idea if the oil will find it's way down the spindle). Failing that I might try and look for a metal pipe and use it as breaker bar (if I can find one). Failing that ride a few miles with dust cover off and it might come lose in the middle of nowhere?

It seems Calvin Jones gets them off with non of the above. Always is the case on video.

It must be normal to struggle with CCP-22 getting these things off?? The last tool I used rounded off so maybe crank is stuck on past the point of the conventional method, pedal in one hand CCP-22 in the other?

I'm juggling building a shed while dealing with this crank so any help will be rewarded "greatly" with good kama..
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This is why I'm not wild about the CCP-22 and similar tools - you're sort of limited to whatever leverage you can develop with the attached handle. If you're not doing this with the bike sitting on it's own wheels on the ground, then do so. Stop the crank from rotating by putting something under the crank arm and use body weight to push on the handle. Any torque you exert will be small potatoes compared to what the frame has to endure while cycling. Make sure that the tool threads are greased and the tool screwed all the way into the crank (use a wrench to ensure that it's all the way in) - the more threads are engaged, the less likely that you'll strip them

Sounds good, I could stand on it while the crank is trapped. I will try this next....

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Or you could immobilize the crankarm by strapping it to one of the frame's tubes or chainstay.

Strap the other crank arm to the frame, make sure the first part is nice and tight in threads and then tighten the outer part with the handle and if need be add something for leverage. A piece of pipe or bicycle tube or part of an old pump or something that will fit over it. It should come off fairly easily.

It is not really normally a struggle with that tool. There will be occasions but it is not a struggle tool it is a pretty easy tool to use but experience is sometimes a good guide the more you get used to the tool and how to use it and tricks to make your job easier and you will have many cranks off pretty easily. There will always be some struggle here and there that is not uncommon but it shouldn't be frequent or often.

I’ve been using the CCP-22 for years. I’ve never had an issued removing square taper cranks. I think it works well. The only drawback to it is that I don’t understand why Park doesn’t make the handle on it a bit longer (like the length of their PW-3 pedal wrench). Sometimes I’ll put a pipe over the handle to provide some added leverage. But I’ll reiterate that the outer nut of the CCP-22 puller needs to be COMPLETELY screwed into the crank (ensuring the crank retainer nut/bolt is removed) …either make sure the the inner spindle is unscrewed enough to be inside the nut, or the spindle/handle removed completely before threading the nut into the crank. If the inner spindle is protruding from the nut, the nut won’t completely screw in, and thereby may not enable the puller spindle to contact the BB spindle. In other words…the spindle handle may have ‘bottomed out’ against the nut, and the puller spindle isn’t pushing against the BB spindle.

Dan

Ok, baby steps. Remove the dust cover and bolt (or nut) clean the threads and look in there making sure there is nothing in there that shouldn't be. remove the spindle from the puller and insert it, then look to make sure it is resting on the axle with some clearance to the crank. If it does, reassemble the puller with only a few threads so that the tool is way backed off. Screw the puller into the crank until it bottoms out. Now turn the puller until it meets the axle. Continue to tighten until crank begins to move.

Flea bay has some Campy pullers for around $50, and they are lifetime tools for most bike mechanics. Buy one good one and never even think about having to buy another. Smiles, MH

https://www.workmatejigs.com/Documen...P-22Manual.pdf

Reiterates what wheel explained above.

Dan

That lipstick sized zinc/black jobber crank puller is very soft and would probably only work for new bikes, but won't work at all for winter rust welded BBs.

I've destroyed quite a few of these. When clients think they are smart and show up with this stupid tool "hey I got this for you to use", I keep my wouth shut, pretend I don't own one, and use their tool they thoughtfully provided. The client gets further punished when I use my adjustable monkey wrench to turn this and round it out severely. Well, good thing they are inexpensive, no loss.

If you are so tight on money, then why on earth did you buy the tool that only works on square taper, instead of the cheaper Park CWP-7 which works on both square taper and Octalink?