(above ) UHMWPE (AmSteel, Dyneema, et al), yep, amazing stuff, not just strong, but ultra low stretch, and better UV resistance than Kevlar. Excellent for making a Deltech cable on a folding frame.

But to the task at hand...

Wrenching on it with handle on one side only, has the drawback of wanting to bend the spine socket out of engagement, although bolting it in place should prevent that. But you are then still putting shear and bending moment into the threads, which will increase friction.

What you want is a "couple"; Either a huge 2-handed wrench, or as others have said, clamp the spline socket in a beefy vice* and grab the bike frame with both hands to unscrew it, and of course, making sure turning direction is correct. This will apply a "pure torque" with no increase in friction due to bending and shear loads.

* If the spline socket is clamped vertically in the vise, the vise may spin, unless the base has really strong clamp levers or does not rotate. If this is a problem, you may need to rotate the vise sideways and clamp the spline socket horizontal so is not trying to rotate the vise; The only drawback of that is that the vise clamps best at jaw center, not at the edge of the jaws.

True remarks, Duragrouch - but irrelevant if the method works (easily!), and the forces generated by asymmetry are not large enough to damage threads. Huge 2-handed wrenches are, to say the least, seldom on hand - and I reckon people who have a bench vise and clamp the spline socket in it seldom worry about gripping the bike frame on both sides to avert one-sided loads which all normal wrenches generate and which almost never matter.

Oh I agree, always try easy first. Wanna be rich? Get rich quick is better than get rich slow. :)

But I think in this case, the OP may be operating at the fringes of capability, and could use all the help possible; A few percent here, a few percent there, it adds up, sometimes just enough to push over the finish line. I'd be worred that a one-sided wrench could torque things enough to misalign the bottom bracket, but with two chainstays, a down tube, and a seat tube, and the wrench center is not that far offset from BB centerline, I think there's enough beef there to resist that. But a really lightweight frame, like racer steel or carbon fiber... I'd be careful about inputting a bending moment that is greater than that exerted by a stout rider. I think your chain wrench assist is within that margin, but I'd do a quick calc to know at what rim tangential force do I exceed that, and not do so.

"Missions are won or lost in the planning stages." - Neil Burnside, D/Ops

I have always had success by not bothering about fancy wrenches, just get a long piece of metal pipe (more than a meter) and put it over the handle and get someone to help. One person holds the tool on and the other turns the wrench. That has always generated more torque than I have ever needed

I was interested in this. Any update? Have you been able to get the BB disassembled?

Dan

UPDATE:
I took the bike to a bike shop, where they used a powertool to remove my bottom bracket in a matter of seconds! And didn't even even charge me for it :)

Now I have a new issue: I asked the dude for the size of the bottom bracket so I could get a new one and he told me 122. I'm finding it hard to believe that's correct and unfortunately I didn't bring the old one home with me. See, the part of the frame where the bottom bracket goes into is 70mm wide, so 122 seems way too wide, even considering the part that sticks out. Is there a way to figure out the size of the bottom bracket based on those 70mm?

70mm is the shell width for an Italian road bike. 122 would be a common length for some triple cranks, and is specified for the particular crank you removed. If that is the crank you are putting back on, what model is it?

122mm is the axle length to put your crank arms and chainrings at the proper distance from the frame. Look for a bottom bracket designed for a 70mm wide shell and matching thread spec (likely Italian, but not 100% definite) with a 122mm long axle. What make/model is your bike and your crank? How many chainrings?

The bike is Trek Zektor Zero. I'm not sure about the frame size, if that makes any difference.
The crank says "Bontrager #070225." I think it's Bontrager Nebula, 46T
One chainring.

Here's a picture of the crank and one of the bottom of the shell, if it helps:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...46367ca13e.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...63749f3643.jpg

A Trek is going to have either a 68mm BB shell width or 73mm. You'll have to measure again to find out what you have.

That crankset doesn't have a listed BB spindle length anywhere. It certainly could be 122 for that style crank. Is there a reason you reject that length?

I just felt like 122 seemed way too long compared to what I remember it looking like.

But ok! According to the specs of my bike, what I need is VP BC-73C, 68x122.5mm, Square Taper
And here it is: VP Components Square Taper Bottom Bracket - Trek Bikes (DK)

I can't find it in Denmark. Interestingly, on the picture of the item that I linked to above, the part itself only says "VP BC-73;" that is, without the "C" at the end. I do see in some other places, like here, that it is called "VP BC-73C:"
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/P7EAA...DK/s-l500.webp

But I can't really order from outside the EU or it'll become expensive due to import tax.

So I'm wondering what does the "C" at the end mean? Is it important at all, or should I just focus on the 68x122mm part?
And if so, then I suppose I could order one of these (different brand)?
Shimano Krankboks Firkantet BB-UN300 BSA - Cykelgear
or
Shimano BSA Krankboks, 68mm

Any 68 x 122 will work. Cheap is fine.

Apparently not.

I got this Shimano BSA Krankboks, 68mm and it doesn't fit.

This stupid metal tube is in the way:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...90ffc3daff.jpg
Dumb

So what do I do now?

If you can't dislodge that tube, you could use a traditional loose-ball bottom bracket instead of a cartridge.

Are you sure that it's not a fixed part of the frame?

No, I'm not certain that it is removable, but I feel that there's a non-zero chance that it might be. Tap on it with a drift punch and see if it moves at all. If it does, you should be able to drive it all the way out.

That is almost assuredly the center spacer from the original bottom bracket cartridge.

Alright, it's just that I tried to bank it out and it didn't move.

There is a cable guide under the BB shell. It is held on by at least one screw. That screw might be long enough that it is digging into that tube, preventing it from moving.

Loosen or remove that screw.

it's either rusted in place, or someone put glue in there, for some odd reason.
drip REAL penetrating oil in there (WD-40 is not a REAL penetrant oil)., around the edges, and also drip some through the drain hole on the bottom of the frame BB... re-soak it before bed time... let it set overnight.
then knock that remnant of the BB bearing assembly out...

i run into those tubes being stuck fairly often... the last stuck one was a PLASTIC tube... Rusted in place.
that stuck tube in your frame was one reason that the Cups didn't want to move easily, and is a symptom of WHY that tube is also stuck... RUST.
Sea Water does Bad things to bicycles, and other metal objects.

i find it rather odd that the bottom bracket underside pic shows a cable stop for a front derailleur, but the Trek Zeckor Zero doesn't have a front derailleur... and you should measure that BB width again, more carefully... i bet it's a 68mm width... the only treks i've seen with a 7omm width BB are special ordered ones that were specified to have Italian Campy parts installed by the ordering person...

for reference... meet the Zecktor Zero Trek bike... https://billigcykel.dk/images/Trek_Z...l-2017-2-p.jpg
another pic, and specs...https://99spokes.com/bikes/trek/2016/zektor-zero-dk

I find electric measuring calipers to be useful.

Or... a hollow spindle two-piece crank (a la hollowtech II) with external bearings (I prefer standardized ISO notch pattern). The spindle will be 24 mm diameter, should fly right through that metal tube. These cranks are available generic brand on amazon (low cost including bearings and rings, and good quality), in various BCD patterns (I like 5x110 mm), and in road or mtb Q-factor (pedal spacing, road is more narrow than mtb).

I don't think they make those in the 122mm square taper the OP was looking for.

True, but I posted it because the whole kit these days can be had for not much more than a good quality taper BB cartridge, and half the price of a really good one like a Phil Wood. Gosh I can't recall which website, they also sold ones that were I think stainless steel spindle and SKF bearings that were $150 but looked really good. EDIT: Whole thing by SKF, made in Germany, USD$169, Rene Herse website, really good seals, 10 year warranty including bearings. Yowza.

But even a cheap external BB bearing set, has been super durable for me, provided I maintain bearing preload, readjust immediately if any slack. Ton of miles so far. High on my list of great designs.

A quality square taper BB is $20.

That's exactly what I used to use (lower end Shimano UN52 or 72?). But even bone dry conditions, with the miles I put on, would start to get a little bit of slack after 6 months. And with no way to readjust, that's when the wear accelerates, that's the key; The cartridge is good quality, but the ability to maintain correct preload, I'm finding, is key for long life. It's the only thing I don't like about internal cartridges, I was a diehard taper-spindle guy, eshewing newer designs like the plague. Then I tried hollow spindle, mostly because the square taper cranks on amazon for my 2X conversion weighed a ton and large Q, this one was light and road Q. Needed to buy bearing wrench (bought a 4 way one, I'm set for future). Made me a convert. Couldn't believe the price for the whole kit of crank, rings, and bearings. And fit ancient 68mm BSA. Noticeably *smoother* and uber durable. Even looks good with traditional 5 arm spider.

The cartridge bearing in square taper units are no different than the ones in hollow spindle cranks. If the bearings are worn enough to have noticeable play, you can't adjust that away because that isn't the way cartridge bearings work.

But despite your extensive experience with cartridge bottom brackets, most any of them last a long time and any small amount of play they develop doesn't matter until it is enough to make replacement worthwhile.

(bold above) With greatest respect for you, you have more experience than I, but the above is not true. Internal cartridges are two ball bearing assemblies (I think deep groove radial contact) or one ball and the other roller bearing, like the SKF, with no adjustment possible. Maybe internally they are not cartridge, but races right on the spindle and cup and cone, but the key is, not adjustable.

The external cartridge bearings are different, they are angular contact on both sides (like cup and cone, only enclosed), and readjusting out slack and adding preload is a simple matter of loosening the left crank arm clamp around the splines, retorque the end cap to 6-13 lb-in, retighten the crank arm clamp, and you're done. (Usually when I do this, after loosening, I remove the left arm and retract the right spider a bit, clean any dirt out from the interfaces, reassemble, then torque.) It's a brilliantly simple and very effective system. I've only had to retorque once so far, about 6 months into use (what a surprise, same interval as internal cartridge starting to loosen a bit), not since. I think the first slack may come from burnishing in the bearings, removing the grinding marks. Having no slack and the proper preload, loads a lot closer to 180 degrees of balls per side with radial load, rather than only a couple with slack. Other bonuses with external: More space for more bearing balls, closer to crank arms so radial load is reduced, stiffer and lighter spindle, and as mentioned, backwardly compatible into BSA BB shells. I wish I had invented the system, it's one of those things I look at and just marvel in its brilliance. Only negative is some off-roaders feel taper spindle (or internal cartridge in general) is better in mud, seals recessed, unlike the contact surface between crank arms and external bearings, dirt might grind there; Sounds valid.

Aheadset stems are very similar in how they adjust preload on a headset, much easier than the old style with big open end wrenches, not having to deal with thread backlash. Maybe the Aheadset (came first) was inspiration for the Hollowtech-II system.

Try some pb blaster, try some heat, find another cylinder and see if you can press it out with a vise, or cut it. Not a problem, just a solution waiting to happen

Shimano BBs do not use angular contact bearings:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...60731f9f3f.png
You are either taking up slack elsewhere in the system, or you are forcing the bearing races out of alignment. Neither of which is making a bearing adjustment.




Has the OP removed his cable guide screw yet?