Kent Ridgeland 700c (Walmart bike)
#1
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Kent Ridgeland 700c (Walmart bike)
So just now getting back into biking.
Went with a Walmart bike for now.
Couple of questions.
( I was an auto mechanic for a decade or so. So while I'm not knowledgeable with bicycles, I have a decent understanding of most mechanical things)
This bike has cup and cone style bearings for the wheels. I pulled both front and rear apart and regreased with automotive wheel bearing grease. (I believe I set preload correct to where there is no bearing play, but also it's not any tighter than that?)I also oiled with synthetic 10w30 the freewheel assembly spinning it until it quieted down and had oil coming out the back (only have about 15 miles on bike).
How often should I service this style wheel bearing?
Is there more to maintaining the freewheel mechanism, besides keeping it well oiled?
My other question is about the bottom bracket.
I haven't torn into that yet. On these cheap bikes are there normally cup and cone bearings in the BB? Or are they sealed bearings and not worth messing with until they're failing?
Went with a Walmart bike for now.
Couple of questions.
( I was an auto mechanic for a decade or so. So while I'm not knowledgeable with bicycles, I have a decent understanding of most mechanical things)
This bike has cup and cone style bearings for the wheels. I pulled both front and rear apart and regreased with automotive wheel bearing grease. (I believe I set preload correct to where there is no bearing play, but also it's not any tighter than that?)I also oiled with synthetic 10w30 the freewheel assembly spinning it until it quieted down and had oil coming out the back (only have about 15 miles on bike).
How often should I service this style wheel bearing?
Is there more to maintaining the freewheel mechanism, besides keeping it well oiled?
My other question is about the bottom bracket.
I haven't torn into that yet. On these cheap bikes are there normally cup and cone bearings in the BB? Or are they sealed bearings and not worth messing with until they're failing?
#2
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,465
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
https://kent.bike/products/700c-kent-ridgeland
the brake cables Will rust if the bike gets wet... the cable Casings are squishy and will also rust easily.. the Brake levers and perches will bend easily, stealing more brake power... the steel brake arms flex, stealing even more power. Reset the brake pads before they get worn unevenly.. they are rarely aligned corectly from the factory.
Regrease the Headset bearings now, or they too Will rust...
as to the bottom bracket... you'll need to remove it to find out what it is inside... i've seen sealed bearings, and cup/cone/caged bearings in Kents... none of them are good quality.
grease the seat post before it rusts in place.,, the paint on it will fall off easily.
the frame/fork paint will fade if left in the sun for days at a time... waxing with turtle wax might slow that some.
set the axle to spin freely (discounting for the thick grease in them now), but with zero slop. the axle nuts say the bike is not a quick release style, which is a good thing since Kent QRs are known to break easily.
the rear axle will bent easily.... if it does bend, replace it with a chrome moly BMX axle... they bend less easily.
and get a decent seat.... wider is NOT better on a narrow road bike... firmer foam and a better covering will be the goal.. avoid "Gel filled" seats unless you want the sensation of riding with a full diaper, and for your seat to fall apart on a hot day.
can you tell i'm no fan of Kent bikes?
i'm no fan of Kent bikes... and i have Two Italian single speeders here i'd have sold to you for less money, if you were local to me...
a Dodici and a Cinelli Gazzetta.
the brake cables Will rust if the bike gets wet... the cable Casings are squishy and will also rust easily.. the Brake levers and perches will bend easily, stealing more brake power... the steel brake arms flex, stealing even more power. Reset the brake pads before they get worn unevenly.. they are rarely aligned corectly from the factory.
Regrease the Headset bearings now, or they too Will rust...
as to the bottom bracket... you'll need to remove it to find out what it is inside... i've seen sealed bearings, and cup/cone/caged bearings in Kents... none of them are good quality.
grease the seat post before it rusts in place.,, the paint on it will fall off easily.
the frame/fork paint will fade if left in the sun for days at a time... waxing with turtle wax might slow that some.
set the axle to spin freely (discounting for the thick grease in them now), but with zero slop. the axle nuts say the bike is not a quick release style, which is a good thing since Kent QRs are known to break easily.
the rear axle will bent easily.... if it does bend, replace it with a chrome moly BMX axle... they bend less easily.
and get a decent seat.... wider is NOT better on a narrow road bike... firmer foam and a better covering will be the goal.. avoid "Gel filled" seats unless you want the sensation of riding with a full diaper, and for your seat to fall apart on a hot day.
can you tell i'm no fan of Kent bikes?
i'm no fan of Kent bikes... and i have Two Italian single speeders here i'd have sold to you for less money, if you were local to me...
a Dodici and a Cinelli Gazzetta.Last edited by maddog34; 12-23-24 at 08:48 PM.
#5
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Kontact
It does appear to have a lock ring on the left I can see threads where I'm assuming it threads into the frame and there is a "lock ring" or real thin nut threaded on there.
As far as bearing pre load, that is what it was always called in the auto world when it came to replacking front wheel bearings or setting bearings on full float axles.
What the right term in the bike world?
It does appear to have a lock ring on the left I can see threads where I'm assuming it threads into the frame and there is a "lock ring" or real thin nut threaded on there.
As far as bearing pre load, that is what it was always called in the auto world when it came to replacking front wheel bearings or setting bearings on full float axles.
What the right term in the bike world?
#6
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,465
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
set any bearing on a bike to zero lash, zero roughness...
Free turning with no slop.
except for quick release axles.. they need a TINY, Tiny amount of slop before the QR gets flipped to "lock"
your bike has nutted axles, so no quick releases to deal with.
Free turning with no slop.
except for quick release axles.. they need a TINY, Tiny amount of slop before the QR gets flipped to "lock"
your bike has nutted axles, so no quick releases to deal with.
#7
Kontact
It does appear to have a lock ring on the left I can see threads where I'm assuming it threads into the frame and there is a "lock ring" or real thin nut threaded on there.
As far as bearing pre load, that is what it was always called in the auto world when it came to replacking front wheel bearings or setting bearings on full float axles.
What the right term in the bike world?
It does appear to have a lock ring on the left I can see threads where I'm assuming it threads into the frame and there is a "lock ring" or real thin nut threaded on there.
As far as bearing pre load, that is what it was always called in the auto world when it came to replacking front wheel bearings or setting bearings on full float axles.
What the right term in the bike world?
So you have a cup and cone, aka "loose ball" BB.
#8
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
This will help you identify and service your BB.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/...&area%5B%5D=47
Greasing the rotating parts is the thing I recommend on lower tier bikes.
Often, the bearings only have what can be described as a "spray wax" lube and a very minimal amount. I like to packem full.
Another thing to mention about the bearings-
IF they have retainers, you can probably toss the retainers and fit additional balls to help spread the load.
Use this many loose balls-
A "typical" front will have ten 3/16" balls/side. I have seen 1/4" balls on a Huffy.
A "typical" rear will have nine 1/4" balls/side.
A "typical" BB will have eleven 1/4" balls/side.
IF you do add additional balls, buy all new. Maybe not the worst idea to replace the existing? I don't know how low they have lowered the bar on bearing balls?
You seem to have a good grasp of what to do. (head set bearings get a bit trickier)
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/...&area%5B%5D=47
Greasing the rotating parts is the thing I recommend on lower tier bikes.
Often, the bearings only have what can be described as a "spray wax" lube and a very minimal amount. I like to packem full.
Another thing to mention about the bearings-
IF they have retainers, you can probably toss the retainers and fit additional balls to help spread the load.
Use this many loose balls-
A "typical" front will have ten 3/16" balls/side. I have seen 1/4" balls on a Huffy.
A "typical" rear will have nine 1/4" balls/side.
A "typical" BB will have eleven 1/4" balls/side.
IF you do add additional balls, buy all new. Maybe not the worst idea to replace the existing? I don't know how low they have lowered the bar on bearing balls?
You seem to have a good grasp of what to do. (head set bearings get a bit trickier)
#10
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 124
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Thanks for all the tips guys.
Yes the factory grease or lack there of was not good.
There were no cages and it was 10 in front wheel and 9 bigger in back
Glad I checked, guess I better do it to the boys bike to.
I'll tear into BB soon,
Yes the factory grease or lack there of was not good.
There were no cages and it was 10 in front wheel and 9 bigger in back
Glad I checked, guess I better do it to the boys bike to.
I'll tear into BB soon,
#11
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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 1,343
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Bikes: BigBox bikes.
This will help you identify and service your BB.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/...&area%5B%5D=47
Greasing the rotating parts is the thing I recommend on lower tier bikes.
Often, the bearings only have what can be described as a "spray wax" lube and a very minimal amount. I like to packem full.
Another thing to mention about the bearings-
IF they have retainers, you can probably toss the retainers and fit additional balls to help spread the load.
Use this many loose balls-
A "typical" front will have ten 3/16" balls/side. I have seen 1/4" balls on a Huffy.
A "typical" rear will have nine 1/4" balls/side.
A "typical" BB will have eleven 1/4" balls/side.
IF you do add additional balls, buy all new. Maybe not the worst idea to replace the existing? I don't know how low they have lowered the bar on bearing balls?
You seem to have a good grasp of what to do. (head set bearings get a bit trickier)
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/...&area%5B%5D=47
Greasing the rotating parts is the thing I recommend on lower tier bikes.
Often, the bearings only have what can be described as a "spray wax" lube and a very minimal amount. I like to packem full.
Another thing to mention about the bearings-
IF they have retainers, you can probably toss the retainers and fit additional balls to help spread the load.
Use this many loose balls-
A "typical" front will have ten 3/16" balls/side. I have seen 1/4" balls on a Huffy.
A "typical" rear will have nine 1/4" balls/side.
A "typical" BB will have eleven 1/4" balls/side.
IF you do add additional balls, buy all new. Maybe not the worst idea to replace the existing? I don't know how low they have lowered the bar on bearing balls?
You seem to have a good grasp of what to do. (head set bearings get a bit trickier)
Thank you.
#12
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 15
Likes: 4
Problems are not unique to Kent bikes
Some of the issues (e.g., lack of grease, incorrectly adjusted bearings) cited by others are not unique to Kent bikes. The same problems are found on many Asia-sourced bikes, some costing a lot more than the Kent bikes.
I recently bought a Kent Ridgeland. I re-greased and adjusted all the bearings. I'm very happy with the bike.
I recently bought a Kent Ridgeland. I re-greased and adjusted all the bearings. I'm very happy with the bike.
#13
Senior Member




Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,465
Likes: 3,279
From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
Some of the issues (e.g., lack of grease, incorrectly adjusted bearings) cited by others are not unique to Kent bikes. The same problems are found on many Asia-sourced bikes, some costing a lot more than the Kent bikes.
I recently bought a Kent Ridgeland. I re-greased and adjusted all the bearings. I'm very happy with the bike.
I recently bought a Kent Ridgeland. I re-greased and adjusted all the bearings. I'm very happy with the bike.
don't let your pride and joy get wet.
change all cables and the chain now or you will see why i warned others about Kent lack of quality.
i've also seen "New!" Kents with self-destructing freewheels...
#14
Some of the issues (e.g., lack of grease, incorrectly adjusted bearings) cited by others are not unique to Kent bikes. The same problems are found on many Asia-sourced bikes, some costing a lot more than the Kent bikes.
I recently bought a Kent Ridgeland. I re-greased and adjusted all the bearings. I'm very happy with the bike.
I recently bought a Kent Ridgeland. I re-greased and adjusted all the bearings. I'm very happy with the bike.
#15
Senior Member




Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,465
Likes: 3,279
From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
#16
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, 86 De Rosa Pro, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Some of the issues (e.g., lack of grease, incorrectly adjusted bearings) cited by others are not unique to Kent bikes. The same problems are found on many Asia-sourced bikes, some costing a lot more than the Kent bikes.
I recently bought a Kent Ridgeland. I re-greased and adjusted all the bearings. I'm very happy with the bike.
I recently bought a Kent Ridgeland. I re-greased and adjusted all the bearings. I'm very happy with the bike.
Same problems are NOT common on bikes from local bike shops or high end direct to consumer
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
#17
#18
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,465
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
#19
Among the many subtle jokes in the movie: the intentionally nonsensical use of an umlaut in "This Is Spin̈al Tap."
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My aluminum bikes: Light, strong, cheap, and comfy.






