Upgrading to a 1x drivetrain
#1
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Upgrading to a 1x drivetrain
This bike is not ridden often, just a spare bike used for leisure rides around the neighborhood.
considering change it from a 3x8 to a 1x8. I don’t know anything about that stuff. The front derailleur doesn’t always shift right (inconsistent despite some tune ups). Just though could be a fun somewhat simple project.
what would be involved ? Could I get away with just change the front chain ring or would other stuff have to change to?
https://imgur.com/a/C6rsaTM (Might be higher resolution via the link).


considering change it from a 3x8 to a 1x8. I don’t know anything about that stuff. The front derailleur doesn’t always shift right (inconsistent despite some tune ups). Just though could be a fun somewhat simple project.
what would be involved ? Could I get away with just change the front chain ring or would other stuff have to change to?
https://imgur.com/a/C6rsaTM (Might be higher resolution via the link).


#3
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Joined: Apr 2019
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What front chainrings do you need to use at the moment for your local terrain? This affects how much you’re going to have to accommodate on the cassette (and it might have a freehub today that can’t offer the range you need)
Last edited by choddo; 04-20-25 at 12:27 PM.
#4
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what benefits do you think you will get?
simplest thing to do, given stated usage, is put it in the middle chain ring and ride that way...... it is now a 1x8
otherwise just git the front shifter working....then you can run it as a 1x8 or not as needed
simplest thing to do, given stated usage, is put it in the middle chain ring and ride that way...... it is now a 1x8
otherwise just git the front shifter working....then you can run it as a 1x8 or not as needed
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#5
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
Just put a friction shifter in front and you automatically add a trim feature to positive shifting.
BTW- If your shift issues occur when using BIG:BIG or LITTLE:LITTLE ring/cog combo's, don't.
I would suggest riding on 1 ring for a week or 2 and then decide if it's really a good idea.
BTW- If your shift issues occur when using BIG:BIG or LITTLE:LITTLE ring/cog combo's, don't.
I would suggest riding on 1 ring for a week or 2 and then decide if it's really a good idea.
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 04-20-25 at 12:42 PM.
#6
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#7
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
#8
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Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
I did this on my road bike (3 x 9) when I changed from drop bars to "trekking" bars to help with arthritis in my wrist. I was able to make a direct substitution of an XTR shifter for the rear, replacing an Ultegra shifter. However, the XTR front shifter would not work with the derailleur, so I got a friction "Silver Shifter" from Rivendell. It works very well on the triple.
#9
Clark W. Griswold




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Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Had a 1x7 and it sucked, went to a 1x9 and it is better but probably 1x10 and 11 are the more practical options these days so you can run a larger cassette in the end though I wouldn't put the money towards a wally mart style bike. Just get a bike that is more practical for your riding or just ride this bike as is.
It was not designed to work super well it was designed to be a low initial cost bike. That is probably why you are unhappy. going to 1X is not going to really make it better.
It was not designed to work super well it was designed to be a low initial cost bike. That is probably why you are unhappy. going to 1X is not going to really make it better.
#10
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Had a 1x7 and it sucked, went to a 1x9 and it is better but probably 1x10 and 11 are the more practical options these days so you can run a larger cassette in the end though I wouldn't put the money towards a wally mart style bike. Just get a bike that is more practical for your riding or just ride this bike as is.
It was not designed to work super well it was designed to be a low initial cost bike. That is probably why you are unhappy. going to 1X is not going to really make it better.
It was not designed to work super well it was designed to be a low initial cost bike. That is probably why you are unhappy. going to 1X is not going to really make it better.
just partially want to tinker on this bike just to get used to doing certain repairs etc.
#11
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From: UK
I have a feeling that’s a 14-28 freewheel on the back. You can get a 14-34 from Sunrace, maybe others. The rear mech might struggle to accommodate it but you could replace or extend that. It must have the wrap capacity given it’s dealing with a triple.
And then just leave it in the middle ring.
I’m assuming the missing 2% is at the easy end?
And then just leave it in the middle ring.
I’m assuming the missing 2% is at the easy end?
#12
Method to My Madness

Joined: Nov 2020
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From: Orange County, California
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse x2, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata 3
I have done it ...
Converting Trek FX2 to 1x - Bike Forums
And offered advice on how to do it ...
3x to 1x conversion - Bike Forums
Converting Trek FX2 to 1x - Bike Forums
And offered advice on how to do it ...
3x to 1x conversion - Bike Forums
#13
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Joined: Oct 2023
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My opinion - If you want to just tinker on the bike, replace the front derailleur/shifter/cable to get that front shifting working good-as or better-than new.
The spring on my Tourney front derailleur is currently weak and I can only get two gears out of it - left and center, or center and right. I have it set up for center and right, and for the 2% when I need it left, I can "throw" it into gear without stopping by shifting both shifters to the left simultaneously.
I have vacation this week, so maybe I'll get around to fixing it.
The spring on my Tourney front derailleur is currently weak and I can only get two gears out of it - left and center, or center and right. I have it set up for center and right, and for the 2% when I need it left, I can "throw" it into gear without stopping by shifting both shifters to the left simultaneously.
I have vacation this week, so maybe I'll get around to fixing it.
#14
Clark W. Griswold




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Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
i should’ve been more specific, I have a nice gravel bike and fat bike for my normal riding, this is more of a spare/loaner bike, I keep it for nostalgia as I bought it myself as a teen back in ‘98 from a LBS.
just partially want to tinker on this bike just to get used to doing certain repairs etc.
just partially want to tinker on this bike just to get used to doing certain repairs etc.
#15
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From: Paradise, TX
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If the chainrings are riveted on, it is a cheap bike and not worth buying parts for. lock the derailer in the middle chain ring and leave it. Once you have done that, you can shorten the chain slightly to reduce chain slap. If you want to remove the derailer completely, you will want a new unramped or narrow/wide chainring to prevent dropping the chain on the extreme ends of the cassette.
#17
Just put a friction shifter in front and you automatically add a trim feature to positive shifting.
BTW- If your shift issues occur when using BIG:BIG or LITTLE:LITTLE ring/cog combo's, don't.
I would suggest riding on 1 ring for a week or 2 and then decide if it's really a good idea.
BTW- If your shift issues occur when using BIG:BIG or LITTLE:LITTLE ring/cog combo's, don't.
I would suggest riding on 1 ring for a week or 2 and then decide if it's really a good idea.





