DIY quill stem
#1
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DIY quill stem
Hi.
I have an old Japanese folding bike, threaded fork, 22.2mm insert.
I want to make use of my alt bar, but the stock quill stem is a single pinch bolt type so, I can't slide it in.
I'm thinking of making a quill stem and clamp a stem with removable plate.
My idea is using a 22.2mm steel seat post and cut an angle below to match the wedge.
The question is, is it safe?

Handlebar and the quick release mechanism.
I have an old Japanese folding bike, threaded fork, 22.2mm insert.
I want to make use of my alt bar, but the stock quill stem is a single pinch bolt type so, I can't slide it in.
I'm thinking of making a quill stem and clamp a stem with removable plate.
My idea is using a 22.2mm steel seat post and cut an angle below to match the wedge.
The question is, is it safe?

Handlebar and the quick release mechanism.
#2
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Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 1,024
Bikes: *'00 LS Vortex/Chorus 12/Campag Zondas*98 LS Classic - S&S couplers/Chorus 12/Rolf Vector Pros*'95 DeBernardi Cromor S/S, Mavic Open Pros on Phil Wood track hubs*
Hi.
I have an old Japanese folding bike, threaded fork, 22.2mm insert.
I want to make use of my alt bar, but the stock quill stem is a single pinch bolt type so, I can't slide it in.
I'm thinking of making a quill stem and clamp a stem with removable plate.
My idea is using a 22.2mm steel seat post and cut an angle below to match the wedge.
The question is, is it safe?

Handlebar and the quick release mechanism.
I have an old Japanese folding bike, threaded fork, 22.2mm insert.
I want to make use of my alt bar, but the stock quill stem is a single pinch bolt type so, I can't slide it in.
I'm thinking of making a quill stem and clamp a stem with removable plate.
My idea is using a 22.2mm steel seat post and cut an angle below to match the wedge.
The question is, is it safe?

Handlebar and the quick release mechanism.
#3
Senior Member




Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,498
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
hmmm... 22.2mm... a schwinn seat post?
gotta be stronger than one of these i guess.... they're aluminum...
Ebaty Search: "Adapter 1" Threaded Fork to 1 1/8" Ahead Stem 22.2mm 150mm Alloy"
the quality of the welding you mention, and any ANNEALING required to reduce embrittlement, is what will matter the most.
gotta be stronger than one of these i guess.... they're aluminum...
Ebaty Search: "Adapter 1" Threaded Fork to 1 1/8" Ahead Stem 22.2mm 150mm Alloy"
the quality of the welding you mention, and any ANNEALING required to reduce embrittlement, is what will matter the most.
#5
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
"is it safe?" Depends on how well one can fabricate. I always get a bit of a smile when I read this type of question. The folder's stem was made by someone's hands and it's proven to be safe. many of us here have made their own (and their stoker's) stems and not have had failures. So to paraphrase an old slogan "only you can prevent unsafety".
There have been a few stem kits that builder suppliers sold BT (before threadless). Basically what grumpus described but without the added wall at the wedge cut or at the quill's top either. The handful of self made stems I've done didn't have any issues with a single walled quill but I did choose fairly thick walls (.058" IIRC for the quill). here's a shot of our tandem that has both stems made by me (as well as a custom brake cable hanger and some of the rerouted cable stops). The bar clamp uses M5 bolts in binder barrels patterned after the common M6, but down sized by about 80% (and I still have some of these binder barrels available). The two bolts have held the bars quite well.
If you do try to make your own stem (or mod an existing one) take care with the alignment. With bars that have a 20"+ width any slight misalignment will be greatly magnified at the grips. Tacking and checking will be your friend. Andy

There have been a few stem kits that builder suppliers sold BT (before threadless). Basically what grumpus described but without the added wall at the wedge cut or at the quill's top either. The handful of self made stems I've done didn't have any issues with a single walled quill but I did choose fairly thick walls (.058" IIRC for the quill). here's a shot of our tandem that has both stems made by me (as well as a custom brake cable hanger and some of the rerouted cable stops). The bar clamp uses M5 bolts in binder barrels patterned after the common M6, but down sized by about 80% (and I still have some of these binder barrels available). The two bolts have held the bars quite well.
If you do try to make your own stem (or mod an existing one) take care with the alignment. With bars that have a 20"+ width any slight misalignment will be greatly magnified at the grips. Tacking and checking will be your friend. Andy

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