Hello, New user here looking for some tech tips on removing a bottom bracket from my 25 year old Motiv mountain bike. I've put thousands of miles on this and it's a real beater so I am doing a long overdue tuneup. I'm more of a Singray and cruiser kind of guy so these bottom brackets are a mystery to me. If I'm not mistaken, this is similar to the type used on old Raleigh bikes. Mine has a good amount of slop in it so i want to take it apart for service. I got the nut holding the left crank arm off but no further. Do I need a puller to remove the crank arm? Also, beyond that, how is everything removed? I've enclosed photos and I do happen to have a tool that fits the outer ring with the notches in it.
I've attached a couple of photos. Any help is greatly appreciated.

You are going to need a number of tools to do the bottom bracket. First you will need a 14mm socket to remove the spindle nuts. Then you will need a crank puller to pull off both arms. Next you will need a hook spanner to remove the lock ring on the left side. To remove the left side cup, you will need a bottom bracket wrench, although that style can be removed with a large adjustable wrench. You will probably want to remove the right side, or fixed cup, which requires yet another special tool. (This is my least favorite tool of all time, by the way.)

To remove the cups you should remember that “left is right and right is wrong”. In other words, the left cup is right hand threaded and the right cup is left hand threaded. The best way to remember this is to put the wrench on both cups so that it points toward the front of the bike and push them down (see green arrow below).


The fixed cup is difficult to remove and the tool always slips. I learned how to remove bottom brackets like this by first removing the left cup and then the right. However, I’ve come up with a much better way of doing it by removing the fixed cup first as illustrated here.

Unfortunately, your tools are going to cost you $60 to $80. I would also almost consider most of them single use because you should replace the bottom bracket with a sealed unit which requires yet another tool but is easier to deal with since they don’t require maintenance. If they go wrong, you just replace them. If possible, see if there is a co-op near you that can help and, more importantly, loan you the tools you need.

Sounds like you'll only need the puller and I recommend one of these Park brand tools. https://www.rei.com/product/702647/p...4414327c326ae2 Built to last, not expensive and shop around for best price and it includes adapter for standard square taper bottom brackets like you have and a wider tip for some Octalink style bottom brackets which you may come across at some point which have the splined rather than square interface. https://www.performancebike.com/shim...All%20Webpages

Thanks for the replies. I had to read them a few times before I was clear on everything but they explain everything very well. Much appreciated!
I did manage to get it apart (except the fixed cup) using a gear puller from Auto Zone to remove the crank arms, the hook spanner I had, which I think came from a Raleigh tool kit and a big adjustable wrench.
I understand replacing the unit with a modern replacement makes sense but everything inside looks usable so I'll just clean it up, re-grease and reassemble.

You're only supposed to resort to using generic pullers after you've wrecked the thread for the proper tool. 😄

A gear puller is a bit unorthodox but you got it off. Inspect the spindle for any pits before you put it back in. If it is pitted or if the bearings show any damage, replace both. We usually used to leave the fixed cup in place with this kind of bottom bracket because they are a bear to get out. Just lay in some grease from the outside using your finger (little finger goes in the hole well).

When you reassemble, make sure the crank bolts are good and tight. I torque all square taper bolts to around 35 to 40 nM (around 30 foot lb). You don’t want the arm to come loose which will result in hogging out the taper on the soft crank.

I prefer Nm to nM, what is a nano-Mega anyway? 😁

Everything went back together great with new chain, shifters, cables and 25 years of dirt and grime removed. The ride is night and day compared to before the service which I knew was long overdue. I got the shifters adjusted nicely and everything is good there except for one issue that was present before and I was hoping would go away after all this attention. With the chain on the middle sprocket in front, all gears at the rear perform fine except for #6. It is finicky to shift into either up or downshifting and if I do get it engaged, it is still not solid and any hard pedaling will cause it to become unstable and basically be in loose engagement.
Every other gear is rock solid and I can stand on the pedals in any of them. They all shift smoothly too. I also shifted the chain on to the small sprocket in front and got the same behavior. I did not try it with the chain on the big sprocket in the front.
I thought with all of the service it got, this issue would go away but if anything, it got worse. I looked closely at the cassette and can see no irregularities. Please pardon me if some of my terminology is a little off.
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Again, any input is greatly appreciated