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From mechanical disk brakes to hybrid brakes?

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Old 08-17-25 | 08:41 AM
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[SOLVED] From mechanical disk brakes to hybrid brakes?

Hello,

The Tektro Mira MD-C400 mechanical disk brakes are a bit weak.

I was wondering if it'd be worth upgrading them to hybrid brakes like TRP's Hy-Road?

Also, when removing a wheel, do hybrid brakes also require pad spacers to prevent the caliper pistons from coming out?

Thank you.

Last edited by Winfried; 08-18-25 at 03:38 AM.
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Old 08-17-25 | 08:54 AM
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The first things you should try are total cleaning, and after that try different pad compounds.

Hydraulic is good in many ways, but for power, it's just a different way of delivering the leverage
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Old 08-17-25 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Winfried
Hello,

The Tektro Mira MD-C400 mechanical disk brakes are a bit weak.

I was wondering if it'd be worth upgrading them to hybrid brakes like TRP's Hy-Road?

Also, when removing a wheel, do hybrid brakes also require pad spacers to prevent the caliper pistons from coming out?

Thank you.
A lot of problems that people experience with mechanical brakes are due to set up. This article details how to set up an Avid BB7 but the set up is pretty much the same. The most common mistake I see is too much lever travel before the pads engage. The pads need to ride very close to the rotor and the stationary pad (the inboard one) needs to be almost touching. If the stationary pad is too far away, the rotor needs to be bent towards the pad and the whole system losses power.
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Old 08-17-25 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Winfried
Hello,

The Tektro Mira MD-C400 mechanical disk brakes are a bit weak.

I was wondering if it'd be worth upgrading them to hybrid brakes like TRP's Hy-Road?

Also, when removing a wheel, do hybrid brakes also require pad spacers to prevent the caliper pistons from coming out?

Thank you.
I've found hyrd great once set up, can be a pain to set up. Buy new, follow instructions precisely, and they'll work great. Expect some lever travel before they engage.

Just like hydro brakes, the piston will come out if you squeeze the lever with nothing between the pads.
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Old 08-17-25 | 11:02 AM
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If I am upgrading I would just get a set of MT-200s from Shimano easy set up reliable and not super expensive. The reason I would go Hy/Rds is because I bought a bike not designed for cheap brakes like one of those e-mopeds or e-bikes online that should have come with hydraulics but has brake cut-offs which wouldn't work with normal hydraulics, we used to use the Hy/Rds for the radpowered stuff because those weak under-powered brakes were not suitable for carrying kids and safety is important.
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Old 08-17-25 | 11:45 AM
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+1 on the MT-200 Shimanos.. low cost, and dependable... they come pre-bled, and ready to install.

i always clean the discs before installing fresh brakes/pads.
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Old 08-18-25 | 03:17 AM
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I guess I'll just for the BR-MT200 then. Thank you.


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Old 08-18-25 | 08:48 AM
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I really dislike the MT200 and the MT400 also for that matter. IMO the first acceptable level of Shimano brake to get is Deore since it has Servo Wave. But even SLX with 160mm rotors are honestly a bit meh. Ok for city riding but wouldn't take them mountain biking.
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Old 08-18-25 | 08:58 AM
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I wouldn't change the current bike. I doubt there'd be enough bang for the bucks. But I would look for hydraulic disc's on your next new bike.
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Old 08-18-25 | 10:28 AM
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Bikes: A few but not too many. Some new, some old. High ratio of Frenchies. Metal only.

I used the HYRD’s on my gravel bike
build. I think they work wonderfully.

I wanted a Sword groupset for the bike and the hybrid brakes play well with that fully cable actuated system. To me, the self adjustment of full hydro, the additional stopping leverage over full mech, and lower maintenance than full hydro was well worth the upgrade. I think the modulation is pretty terrific as well.

I’ve ridden the heck out of them for about a year over a few hundred miles. The only time I’ve experienced and sort of fade was recently on the downhill back half of a local race. The organizer really went all out with the mixed terrain and about 10 or so miles of the course was rough, steep terrain that would’ve been more suited to a suspended mountain bike than a rigid gravel ride.

You don’t need a spacer between pads when making adjustments. The brakes have a little contained, springed bolt you can use to lock them open while fiddling with things.

Perhaps they’re not for everyone, but I give them a full throated endorsement. Fleabay sometimes has them new for a good price.
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