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Servicing Alfine 8

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Old 09-02-25 | 02:52 PM
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Servicing Alfine 8

I ride a Milwaukee Beltline that is fitted with an Alfine 8 IGH. I ride year-round in Toronto. Last week, I noticed the wheel "dragging" a bit. I've never serviced the hub and have ridden it for 3 seasons, so I figured it probably needed a service. Watched a few youtube videos, and successfully removed the gearing from the shell. There appeared to be a tiny bit of water ingress (just a few drops here and there in the grease - maybe its just condensation??) but everything looks ok otherwise. Shimano servicing recommends oil bath with Shimano oil, but the internet has lots of opinions about that. So, looking for some more opinions. :-)
  1. Should I degrease the full internals first? If I do that, do I just let the degreaser dry after swishing the hub around in the degreaser, or do I need to wash out the degreaser after (with water) and then leave it to dry? Rinsing with water seems contrary to keeping water out, and not sure it would ever fully dry from the tiny cracks and contact points.
  2. As I'm riding in the winter up hear in the cold north, is there a recommended oil to use, instead of the Shimano oil, that won't be affected by the sub-zero (celsius) temperatures?
  3. I've seen some suggestions to add a small amount (10cc or so) of oil to the hub shell before replacing the gears, and some that suggest adding the oil directly to the bearings and gears, and not pouring it into the hub. Or is just the oil bath (soak the whole thing, then leave to drip off excess) sufficient/best?
Seeking opinions of bike mechanics. Especially anyone who regularly services Shimano IGH (and better yet if they are located in cold climate).

Thanks.
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Old 09-02-25 | 04:09 PM
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Clark W. Griswold
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I recommend following Shimano's instructions for Alfine 8 speed hub repair and sticking with that. The internet did not make the hub but Shimano did and they very much know how it should be maintained properly since they have been making IGHs for a long time since the late 1950s so I would trust them before randos on the internet. I would also recommend using the correct Shimano Oil.

I might consider reaching out to Shimano on what they recommend for cold weather as I cannot speak to that.
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Old 09-02-25 | 05:36 PM
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1) Using a degreaser that is water-based (or not compatible with what you are going to relubricate with) is a Bad Idea if you are not stripping it down all the way to the axle (or bathing it in something that can displace water when you are finished...aka, cleaning it twice). Mineral spirits/kerosene are a good choice for this, that does not require absolute removal. Breathing protection/excellent ventilation are a must.

2) There are many thoughts regarding what to do to make it more able. Otherwise following Shimano's recommendations (meaning, using their lubricants to carry out the work) will not cause damage. In extreme cold, you need to thin the grease somehow (see below--you can mix the oil/grease together, and apply that in lieu of grease in the instructions).

3) Either way works. The idea is to get the oil in the mechanism (and dipping just happens to be less messy, as there isn't a puddle in the hub waiting to squeeze out). The neat trick with the Shimano lubricants is that they are 100% compatible. The oil/grease will mix and create what is effectively very light grease/very heavy oil. Dipping the mechanism speeds this process, and is relatively clean once you understand how to do it (balance the internals over the mouth of your dipping vessel, allowing the excess to drain for about 30-60 seconds). Apply grease liberally to the clutches/left hand bearing.

3a) The right wheel bearing cannot be reached without special punches to remove the cone from the internals. These bearings can be lubricated with the heaviest grease you have, as they are difficult to service (and isolated enough that you don't need to worry about the grease migrating).
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Old 09-03-25 | 08:46 AM
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I've maintained two Nexus 8-speed hubs for about 15 years by the "oil immersion" method. Once a year has worked for me; this probably represents around 1,500 miles.
The oil is a synthetic gear oil ("Royal Purple" 75w-140), which is a lot less expensive than the "official" Shimano oil.
I made a container for the immersion process to minimize the amount of oil needed.
The bearings are re-lubed with "Nexus grease" before reassembly.
I did not de-grease these hubs; the original grease has gradually disappeared over the years.
Another resource for servicing your hub is Rat City Bikes (Aaron's Bicycle Repair).

A plastic syringe attached (epoxy) to the bottom of an ice cream jar accommodates the axle.
A plastic syringe attached (epoxy) to the bottom of an ice cream jar accommodates the axle.


This can is the right size to serve as a stand for the immersion vessel. the oil level shown is about right; it rises to the top when the hub is inserted.
This can is the right size to serve as a stand for the immersion vessel. the oil level shown is about right; it rises to the top when the hub is inserted.
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Old 09-11-25 | 08:15 AM
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Love that oil container! And the "wasabi" stand! You should market that!
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