Installing new threaded headset
#1
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 215
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From: Australia
Installing new threaded headset
Hey everyone
I am finally getting round to building up a Peugeot 531 Pro ("Aneto") frame from 1986 that I bought several years ago.
First step is installing the new threaded headset which has balls captured in cages.
For some reason, I am thinking the correct adjustment here should be a slight pre-loading of the ball bearings.
I seem to remember an idea that this engages more balls in contact as well as prevents any play wearing out the races through repeated micro impacts.
Does this seem reasonable ? (pre-loading the bearings when adjusting the headset)
I am finally getting round to building up a Peugeot 531 Pro ("Aneto") frame from 1986 that I bought several years ago.
First step is installing the new threaded headset which has balls captured in cages.
For some reason, I am thinking the correct adjustment here should be a slight pre-loading of the ball bearings.
I seem to remember an idea that this engages more balls in contact as well as prevents any play wearing out the races through repeated micro impacts.
Does this seem reasonable ? (pre-loading the bearings when adjusting the headset)
#2
With a mighty wind

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 3,436
Likes: 1,491
I snug it up to just the point where I feel resistance in the steering. Then I tighten the two nuts together, and since this process slightly backs off the lower one, it usually ends up perfect.
No wobble with no resistance to steering is your goal. You can get away with a bit more overtightening with cartridge bearings than with balls. Too tight and it'll feel weird steering.
No wobble with no resistance to steering is your goal. You can get away with a bit more overtightening with cartridge bearings than with balls. Too tight and it'll feel weird steering.
#4
Headsets should have no resistance to turning. It’s usually easier to finalize the adjustment with the bike assembled and the front brake locked. Rocking the bike forward and back will highlight any play.
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Jeff Wills
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#6
With a mighty wind

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 3,436
Likes: 1,491
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,439
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^^^ This. Adjust so you just eliminate the play. This results in easy turning of the bars and maximum bearing/headset life.
#9
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,160
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Unlike Iride01, I adjust headsets with no play. Install it in the stand initially. Then put the bike on the floor. Hold the front brake and rock the bike back and forth to detect play. Hold the front wheel between my legs so I can use one hand on the wrench on the adjustable and the other hand on the wrench on the locknut. It's a good idea to adjust it too loose at first (locking the locknut) and then tightening the adjustment very slightly (again tightening the locknut). If it's still loose, tighten it again, still very slightly.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.






