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Azub rehab

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Old 11-11-25 | 12:10 PM
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Azub rehab

Hello,

I’m new here. By way of introduction, I recently bought a used Azub 6. I hope to put it back in good condition and finish the great divide bike path. I made it from Mexico to Colorado last trip but had to drop out. A pic of my rig below.

I’m no bike mechanic but I’m trying to learn.

One of my first tasks is to replace the chain rings for the Pinion 1.18. I have the parts but don’t know how to get into the rear hub. The pinion lock ring tool is not helpful. I’ve up and down the pinion site and YouTube but no help. It has 12 slots if that’s helpful. And it’s a pinion part (photo below). Any ideas?

Also, on a related note. My Azub trike had a Sturmey Archer rear hub with a drum brake. It saved but bacon out in the deep New Mexico mud. When a pawl broke near Santa Fe, the local bike shop replaced it with a DT Swiss ratchet. It was a 2 minute drop in part. It’s been 7 years ago and I can’t find anyone currently who believes this is possible. Do you guys know?

Anyway, I’m sure I’ll have many more questions. Thanks in advance.

Best regards,

Tom



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Old 11-11-25 | 03:42 PM
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Just a shout out to whoever messaged me. I can’t see messages until I have 10 posts. Thanks
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Old 11-11-25 | 05:12 PM
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it LOOKS like a Standard Cassette Lockring tool should remove the sprocket, along with a Chain Whip.

Park tool #FR-5.2g, and Park tool #HCW-16.3 will get the rear sprov=cket changed.

the blue socket shown in your pic is a tool for the crank mounted Chain Ring, i would guess.
you will need a crank remover tool to get at that part's Lockring, and make the change.
i can only speculate on the crank remover tool, so i won't .

you may want to find a shop to help you instead... buying tools on a tour ride is just another long delay, and extra things to carry.
look for a Co-Op Bike Shop.. we tend to be less expensive, by a wide margin.
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Old 11-11-25 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluedog225
One of my first tasks is to replace the chain rings for the Pinion 1.18. I have the parts but don’t know how to get into the rear hub. The pinion lock ring tool is not helpful. I’ve up and down the pinion site and YouTube but no help. It has 12 slots if that’s helpful. And it’s a pinion part (photo below). Any ideas?
You need to hold the sprocket (with a chain whip or cassette pliers) and unscrew the 12 spline lockring with a regular cassette tool.
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Old 11-11-25 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
it LOOKS like a Standard Cassette Lockring tool should remove the sprocket, along with a Chain Whip.

Park tool #FR-5.2g, and Park tool #HCW-16.3 will get the rear sprov=cket changed.

the blue socket shown in your pic is a tool for the crank mounted Chain Ring, i would guess.
you will need a crank remover tool to get at that part's Lockring, and make the change.
i can only speculate on the crank remover tool, so i won't .

you may want to find a shop to help you instead... buying tools on a tour ride is just another long delay, and extra things to carry.
look for a Co-Op Bike Shop.. we tend to be less expensive, by a wide margin.

Got it. Thanks
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Old 11-11-25 | 08:05 PM
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Once I get this bike in rideable condition, and if I think it’s going to work out, I’ll get with a local mechanic to do some more significant work. Right now, it’s got a falco drive on the back that I’m not really feeling.
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Old 11-12-25 | 12:24 PM
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Did an oil change on the pinion today. No issues. Used the $$$ pinion oil. Next time will be from a quart of 75-90. Used oil was very clean but no harm in a new beginning.

I also cleaned out the old grease in the planetary gears. I don’t think the replacement grease matters much. Went with Lucas red and tacky. If I find out later that I need the brand name pinion greaser or a white lithium grease, I’ll change it out. But I can’t imagine a lighter duty environhment.

Still trying to get to my 10 posts so I can read pm’s .
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Old 11-13-25 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluedog225
Did an oil change on the pinion today. No issues. Used the $$$ pinion oil. Next time will be from a quart of 75-90. Used oil was very clean but no harm in a new beginning.

I also cleaned out the old grease in the planetary gears. I don’t think the replacement grease matters much. Went with Lucas red and tacky. If I find out later that I need the brand name pinion greaser or a white lithium grease, I’ll change it out. But I can’t imagine a lighter duty environhment.

Still trying to get to my 10 posts so I can read pm’s .
the thick Automotive Axle and Suspension grease will have barely any,if any, FLOWBACK after you stop riding... it will add drag and move off of the gear teeth, never to return.

you may want to look up how much a new planetary gear transmission/hub that will fit your bike costs... add installation and any shifters/cables/fittings might be needed.
... or get that high pressure, high temp grease out of your lightweight bike transmission, then replace it with the proper, recommended lube.
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Old 11-16-25 | 08:50 PM
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Fair point. I’ll check it out. I appreciate the info.
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Old 11-16-25 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
the thick Automotive Axle and Suspension grease will have barely any,if any, FLOWBACK after you stop riding... it will add drag and move off of the gear teeth, never to return.

you may want to look up how much a new planetary gear transmission/hub that will fit your bike costs... add installation and any shifters/cables/fittings might be needed.
... or get that high pressure, high temp grease out of your lightweight bike transmission, then replace it with the proper, recommended lube.
I did a little research and see your point better.

Interestingly, Pinion has a brand of gear oil (which I used). But they don’t have a grease.

There doesn’t seem to be a specific brand or spec recommended. Just grease liberally. What do you think of Park Tool HPG-1 or Shimano Premium Grease?

Thanks
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