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Old 11-19-25 | 03:37 PM
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Press Fit Tool

Hey y'all! Can I get a recommendation for a fairly decent BB press fit tool for a garage mechanic that might change a press fit out every year or so? TY!!
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Old 11-19-25 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ArgoMan
Hey y'all! Can I get a recommendation for a fairly decent BB press fit tool for a garage mechanic that might change a press fit out every year or so? TY!!
What is your annual mileage? A new BB "every year or so" sounds excessive.
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Old 11-19-25 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SoSmellyAir
What is your annual mileage? A new BB "every year or so" sounds excessive.
SoSmelly!! I just picked that figure out of thin air, as I'm beginning to help other people with basic bike upgrades and repairs. I have no idea how much I ride. I do alot of Tri stuff. I just want a nice tool that won't see too much use, but works when needed. Buying a Park will be overkill.
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Old 11-19-25 | 08:25 PM
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I'm happy with this one I bought on Amazon. I've only used it once, but it is built well enough, I think it could be used regularly with no problems.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBM8QZJR...sin_title&th=1
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Old 11-19-25 | 09:11 PM
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Pressfit tools can have more than one application. A tool that can press in a bottom bracket bearing may also be useful for pressing in headset bearings. Actually, removing bearings can be more challenging than installing them
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Old 11-19-25 | 09:19 PM
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Hey Argoman,

(a little off-topic) did you see this video from a guy who also built up his own Time ADH? It is not super-detailed, but there are some good pieces of advice. I was especially thankful for the tip on using the foam tubing to keep the hydraulic lines from rattling inside the bike. Just FYI.



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Old 11-20-25 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by webtwo
Hey Argoman,

(a little off-topic) did you see this video from a guy who also built up his own Time ADH? It is not super-detailed, but there are some good pieces of advice. I was especially thankful for the tip on using the foam tubing to keep the hydraulic lines from rattling inside the bike. Just FYI.

https://youtu.be/OvN8WV8Joz8?si=g33GJJTR-CWBPgQL

Snap! Thank you. I was going to a "basic" build up myself. Meaning install BB, handle bars and such. The reason being is that I wanted to get a basic idea of my sitting position on the bike before I have my LBS build it out fully. I'm not too sure of the length stem I want to use right now. I'll watch the video to see if they're any tips that I can pass along to them. Excellent, TY!
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Old 11-20-25 | 10:27 PM
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Looking at the video, the builder uses the Deda Superbox DCR, which allows full internal or semi-internal routing. That's pretty cool. There'a also the FSA SMR stem that looks nice. I think the challenge I have with such stems is that I've always used +6 degree stems (mounted upwards.) I don't think I've ever ridden a stem that's mounted in a downward angle. I wonder what effect that would have? The Deda and FAS are -6 degrees, which would deviate about 12-14 mm downward from what I'm used to (about .5 inch.) No biggie, or a potential no-go?
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Old 11-20-25 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ArgoMan
There'a also the FSA SMR stem that looks nice. I think the challenge I have with such stems is that I've always used +6 degree stems (mounted upwards.) I don't think I've ever ridden a stem that's mounted in a downward angle. I wonder what effect that would have? The Deda and FAS are -6 degrees, which would deviate about 12-14 mm downward from what I'm used to (about .5 inch.) No biggie, or a potential no-go?
Wonder no more: Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
As you can see, it also depends on the spacer height under your stem. For example, with my Deda Zero100 stem, which is +/- 8 degrees, installing the stem in either (A) the upward angle with a 5 mm spacer or (B) the downward angle with a 30 mm spacer put the handlebar in the same position. I choose (B) because to me, a stem that is more or less parallel to the top tube looks better. As for whether lowering your handlebar by 12-14 mm is a biggie or not, it depends on you; no one else would know.
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Old 11-20-25 | 10:57 PM
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I just used some all thread and big washers, a hammer and a block of wood will also get it done.
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Old 11-21-25 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by SoSmellyAir
Wonder no more: Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
As you can see, it also depends on the spacer height under your stem. For example, with my Deda Zero100 stem, which is +/- 8 degrees, installing the stem in either (A) the upward angle with a 5 mm spacer or (B) the downward angle with a 30 mm spacer put the handlebar in the same position. I choose (B) because to me, a stem that is more or less parallel to the top tube looks better. As for whether lowering your handlebar by 12-14 mm is a biggie or not, it depends on you; no one else would know.
Thank you! Yeah, I've made the decision to either go with the Deda or the FSA. The Deda looks nicer, but it's way more expensive and it looks like there may be difficulty obtaining extra spacers. We'll see. Once my seat post arrives (went with Thomson) I'll slap a 90 mm stem I have , sit on the bike and see how the reach feels, with the stem mounted in both angle. That should then give me an idea of the true stem length and stack I'll need. But I'll be checking out that comparison tool.
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Old 11-21-25 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ArgoMan
Once my seat post arrives (went with Thomson) I'll slap a 90 mm stem I have , sit on the bike and see how the reach feels, with the stem mounted in both angle. That should then give me an idea of the true stem length and stack I'll need. But I'll be checking out that comparison tool.
Or you can set up your new bike to put all contact points as close as possible to another road bike on which you are already comfortably riding, at least as a starting point?
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Old 11-21-25 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SoSmellyAir
+1 for this tool. Used it many times to take the guesswork out of buying the wrong length stem.
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Old 11-22-25 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Crankycrank
+1 for this tool. Used it many times to take the guesswork out of buying the wrong length stem.
"Struggling to buy the wrong stem? Worry no more - with this tool you're sure to get it wrong."
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Old 11-22-25 | 12:37 PM
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What, exactly, kind of bottom bracket fitment is it?

A properly installed pressfit bottom bracket is just as durable as any other system, but you need to make sure that the bores/faces (if applicable) are reamed/faced properly.

The issues tend to occur with "high tech" systems that lack actual labyrinth sealing, relying only on a basic contact seal...which acts to wick/pump water into the bearing.

"BB" systems (Ie, BB30, BB90, BB95) systems that rely on a cartridge pressed directly into the frame typically have poor bearing life from bad sealing practices. "PF" cartridge style systems tend to be better performers long term, provided the dimensions have been corrected (see reaming/facing).

Threaded bottom brackets got a good rep because shops HAD to coaxially correct the threads/reaming/facing on most new frames (we're talking pre-80s, here). Most shops never purchased reamers/facers for pressfit bottom brackets, and poor alignment killed public perception of the PF system.
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Old 11-22-25 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SoSmellyAir
Or you can set up your new bike to put all contact points as close as possible to another road bike on which you are already comfortably riding, at least as a starting point?
This is exactly what I do, works like a charm.
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Old 11-23-25 | 12:51 AM
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Time have arguably the best alignment of shells in the PF world so I wouldn’t worry about that.

BB86 - I believe this is always nylon cups into the frame with bearings preinstalled. I made my own press with a long threaded rod, two nuts, washers and compatible drifts. Cost very little. Have to be careful with alignment though.

and then upgraded to the big park tool one so that I could also do headsets and never have yet for various reasons. It is quicker to release and don’t need a wrench but not sure that was worth £150, and it’s a lot bulkier.
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Old 11-23-25 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by choddo
Time have arguably the best alignment of shells in the PF world so I wouldn’t worry about that.

BB86 - I believe this is always nylon cups into the frame with bearings preinstalled. I made my own press with a long threaded rod, two nuts, washers and compatible drifts. Cost very little. Have to be careful with alignment though.

and then upgraded to the big park tool one so that I could also do headsets and never have yet for various reasons. It is quicker to release and don’t need a wrench but not sure that was worth £150, and it’s a lot bulkier.
Thanks. It's pretty challenging finding a reasonably priced press fit tool that comes with drifts suitable for BB386 EVO. I recalled that I have a DIY headset cup tool that I made with threaded rod, washers, and two blocks of very flat maple. I think that this will work just fine for the BB.
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Old 11-23-25 | 04:10 PM
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Ah yeah it’s not bb86 but still, nylon cups with preinstalled bearings. Should be fine. What crankset did you decide on?
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Old 11-23-25 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by choddo
Ah yeah it’s not bb86 but still, nylon cups with preinstalled bearings. Should be fine. What crankset did you decide on?
Force E1, 50-37T, 165 mm cranks. Got a good deal on it too.
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Old 11-24-25 | 10:32 AM
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I have one of these. Works great. Bunch of eBay and Amazon sellers of same or similar

​​​​​​https://www.ebay.com/itm/187669743755...3ABFBMypuY69Zm
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Old 11-24-25 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Steel Charlie
I have one of these. Works great. Bunch of eBay and Amazon sellers of same or similar

​​​​​​https://www.ebay.com/itm/187669743755...3ABFBMypuY69Zm
Saw that, I just don't know it it has a sufficiently large step (drift) for my BB.
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Old 11-24-25 | 11:24 AM
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Quick aside. I believe that I have to use a 2 mm spacer on the drive side of my BB (BB386.) My BB (Sram DUB) came with a 2.5 spacer. Looking around, I see lots of retailers from which to get spacers, but not much specific for BB386. This is probably a very silly question, but I shall ask: can I use any 2 mm spacer, or do I need one specific to BB386? Thank you.
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Old 11-24-25 | 04:05 PM
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As long as it hasn’t got a 24mm hole in the centre
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Old 11-25-25 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ArgoMan
Saw that, I just don't know it it has a sufficiently large step (drift) for my BB.
The three biggest bearing diameter steps are 46.8, 43.8, 40.8 with a rim diameter of 56mm
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