How to clean the inside of a down tube ,carbon road bike
#1
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How to clean the inside of a down tube ,carbon road bike
I had made a post 2 days ago , asking for help to remove the crank of my bike , after i managed to do that (as expected) the spindle and the bb were really worn out , i already order a new bb and cleaned the spindle (might give it more of a scrub) . things are looking good , posted some photos with bef


ore and after ! Now what i am wondering if it s possible somehow to clean the inside of the frame better . With the zone from the bb i am quite happy (could be better but yeah) but the thing that i heard is for example when i turn the headset the internal cable routing makes a sound , kind of that rub with the internal sand/gunk from inside the frame . Couldn t really find any video about how to clean that section of the bike , the down tube .


ore and after ! Now what i am wondering if it s possible somehow to clean the inside of the frame better . With the zone from the bb i am quite happy (could be better but yeah) but the thing that i heard is for example when i turn the headset the internal cable routing makes a sound , kind of that rub with the internal sand/gunk from inside the frame . Couldn t really find any video about how to clean that section of the bike , the down tube .
#2
Facts just confuse people




Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Mississippi
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
It looks like you cleaned it well enough. Do you need to clean it more?
If you don't have any wires or cables running through it, you could flush it out with a strong stream of water from a hose with good pressure. And then patiently wait for it to dry out. Or, just accept that it's good enough as it is.
Not many things are pretty on the inside. Beauty is only skin deep. Ugly goes all the way to the bone.
If you don't have any wires or cables running through it, you could flush it out with a strong stream of water from a hose with good pressure. And then patiently wait for it to dry out. Or, just accept that it's good enough as it is.
Not many things are pretty on the inside. Beauty is only skin deep. Ugly goes all the way to the bone.
#3
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Rest assured that with internal cable routing you'll be revisiting the dirty interior.
Not sure how worried I'd be about road grit getting inside the frame though. It's not like there's any real movement going on (like a bearing, chain, pivot have) so the grit is pretty much just sitting there. I also don't think the grit will cause any significant harm, although it is a pity that the frame has poorly sealed ports it seems. Cured carbon fiber is rather resistant to the common chemicals we might use for cleaning, any decals or paint might not be so protected. I would have little qualms about flushing out a bare frame, inside out, with a mild pressure flow of soapy water followed by thorough rinsing. Andy.
Not sure how worried I'd be about road grit getting inside the frame though. It's not like there's any real movement going on (like a bearing, chain, pivot have) so the grit is pretty much just sitting there. I also don't think the grit will cause any significant harm, although it is a pity that the frame has poorly sealed ports it seems. Cured carbon fiber is rather resistant to the common chemicals we might use for cleaning, any decals or paint might not be so protected. I would have little qualms about flushing out a bare frame, inside out, with a mild pressure flow of soapy water followed by thorough rinsing. Andy.
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#5
I had made a post 2 days ago , asking for help to remove the crank of my bike , after i managed to do that (as expected) the spindle and the bb were really worn out , i already order a new bb and cleaned the spindle (might give it more of a scrub) . things are looking good , posted some photos with bef


ore and after ! Now what i am wondering if it s possible somehow to clean the inside of the frame better . With the zone from the bb i am quite happy (could be better but yeah) but the thing that i heard is for example when i turn the headset the internal cable routing makes a sound , kind of that rub with the internal sand/gunk from inside the frame . Couldn t really find any video about how to clean that section of the bike , the down tube .


ore and after ! Now what i am wondering if it s possible somehow to clean the inside of the frame better . With the zone from the bb i am quite happy (could be better but yeah) but the thing that i heard is for example when i turn the headset the internal cable routing makes a sound , kind of that rub with the internal sand/gunk from inside the frame . Couldn t really find any video about how to clean that section of the bike , the down tube .
#6
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I am sorry for that, got really caught up with trying to clean and all of that . Well that method was to hit it harder with the hammer . I went to a car mechanic and in the end he hit it with a simple hammer and a wooden board in betwen, i did the same but not as hard (i was really bitting my nails in fear when he used some really heavy hits on it )
#7
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For anyone that comes by, i have another small question . From my understanding do i have both a flatmount and postmount or is it only the flatmount ? Those brakes feal really bad.. i can brake x2 as fast with rim brakes. So i researched and found those

TANKE road bicycle brake set RUSH. Do you guys think it will improve the breaking significantly ? at least come close to rim breakes.. and from what i heard it makes a really big difference to have compresionless housing cable , is it true and worth the extra money ?

#8
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Hello everyone ,for everyone wondering how i got the crank out , i responded on the other post entitled "Stuck crank" . I would still have a question for whoever comes around . My bike currently useses decaf caliper , it fells really terible.. i think with rim breaks i would break x2 fast and in lesser distance . So i would really want to upgrade but don t really know on what to look for .. the decaf caliper is a dual piston ,mecanical disk brakes. For now what i found is TANKE road bycicle brake set RUSH, y'all think it s worth it , and it would fell like an improvement ? at least to fell the same with rim brakes , i would like . The Tanke have mineral oil so kinda like hydraulic(ofc still not at the same level) , but still dual piston (i know about junintech f1 and trp hy/rp but idk if it s worth the extra money )
#9
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From: San Francisco - it used to be nice
Bikes: 1970 Alex Singer, 63 Hetchins, 75 Motobecane Townie, more . . .
Spend the money and get a decent name-brand brake instead of some Ali Express / Amazon worthless piece of crap. Tanke ? Really ?
Drill a 5mm-6mm drain hole in the lowest point of the BB to let some of the moisture out so your BB axle might not get so rusty next time ? Coat the axle with some grease, too.
Drill a 5mm-6mm drain hole in the lowest point of the BB to let some of the moisture out so your BB axle might not get so rusty next time ? Coat the axle with some grease, too.
#10
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#11
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Last summer I put a new dropper post on my bike. I planned to reuse my cable housing since it was pretty fresh and already installed.
At one point it became necessary to look down the seatpost with a flashlight. The housing I saw was white or maybe tan. That cable is blue. I was confused so I messed with it more. Turns out, it was coated in a fine layer of central Oregon lava dust.
I completed the install and moved on with my life. Bike looks great and works great. No reason to mess around with a disassembly followed by a flush and long time drying, only for it to fill back up with dust over the next few weeks.
I guess if you are a total weight weenie, you could justify clearing out 17 grains of unnecessary weight from the inner works of your frame.
At one point it became necessary to look down the seatpost with a flashlight. The housing I saw was white or maybe tan. That cable is blue. I was confused so I messed with it more. Turns out, it was coated in a fine layer of central Oregon lava dust.
I completed the install and moved on with my life. Bike looks great and works great. No reason to mess around with a disassembly followed by a flush and long time drying, only for it to fill back up with dust over the next few weeks.
I guess if you are a total weight weenie, you could justify clearing out 17 grains of unnecessary weight from the inner works of your frame.
#12
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Last summer I put a new dropper post on my bike. I planned to reuse my cable housing since it was pretty fresh and already installed.
At one point it became necessary to look down the seatpost with a flashlight. The housing I saw was white or maybe tan. That cable is blue. I was confused so I messed with it more. Turns out, it was coated in a fine layer of central Oregon lava dust.
I completed the install and moved on with my life. Bike looks great and works great. No reason to mess around with a disassembly followed by a flush and long time drying, only for it to fill back up with dust over the next few weeks.
I guess if you are a total weight weenie, you could justify clearing out 17 grains of unnecessary weight from the inner works of your frame.
At one point it became necessary to look down the seatpost with a flashlight. The housing I saw was white or maybe tan. That cable is blue. I was confused so I messed with it more. Turns out, it was coated in a fine layer of central Oregon lava dust.
I completed the install and moved on with my life. Bike looks great and works great. No reason to mess around with a disassembly followed by a flush and long time drying, only for it to fill back up with dust over the next few weeks.
I guess if you are a total weight weenie, you could justify clearing out 17 grains of unnecessary weight from the inner works of your frame.






