Creaking noise from cranks when applying force to pedals?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hi all, I've had an audax racer for only 4 months now (bought new and ridden through the winter) and now I'm getting an annoying creaking/grating sound coming from the crank area whenever I pedal hard. Any idea what this could be?
I've already tried replacing the pedals and the noise is still there. Tends to happen more when the left pedal is being forced down.
If it's the BB then my next question is how could the BB be shot so quickly? I only ride about 10 miles per day on this bike.
I've already tried replacing the pedals and the noise is still there. Tends to happen more when the left pedal is being forced down.
If it's the BB then my next question is how could the BB be shot so quickly? I only ride about 10 miles per day on this bike.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 4,454
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 128 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
BB is a possibility, as is the connection between the crank and BB - it's possible that connection isn't tightened enough on the left side. You should first check for any play in the crankarms, which could be from (1) loose connection between crank and BB (2) loose BB connection to frame (3) shot BB bearings. Make sure to check both crankarms for play, as the left might be more loose than the rt. Next, remove the cranks from the BB, and spin the BB spindle between your fingers, to see how the bearings feel. If they're quite gritty, then it's possible that the BB bearings are causing the noise. If so, you can live with it until the BB gets bad enough to where it gives resistance to the pdeals, or you could replace it.
__________________
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Along with what Tim suggested, the noise may be coming from the bottom bracket cups. These are a frequent source of noise if they weren't lubricated adequately or tightened sufficiently when installed. Removing the cups, adding lots of grease or a few turns of teflon tape and reinstalling with sufficient (read LOTS of) torque may solve the problem.
#4
THIS SPACE FOR RENT
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Time for me to say what I always say:
If the frame wasn't faced, the BB cups could effectively be crooked, which means the BB has essentially been running on only 2 bearings, which means it could easily have gone out this fast.
If the frame wasn't faced, the BB cups could effectively be crooked, which means the BB has essentially been running on only 2 bearings, which means it could easily have gone out this fast.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 4,454
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 128 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
Yeah, I should have elaborated on the factor that I'd listed above:
> (2) loose BB connection to frame
By which I meant what HillRider and Landgolier are referring to.
> (2) loose BB connection to frame
By which I meant what HillRider and Landgolier are referring to.
#6
Light Cyclist
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 115
Bikes: Centurion Le Mans RS, Homebuilt Cyclocross (Nashbar frame), Homebuild Surly Disc Trucker Touring Rig
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have the exact same problem, and it's happening after a whopping 4 rides (~72 miles). I'm guessing it wasn't tightened properly, as I had the same problem with my cranks. Shows what I get for NOT getting a torque wrench when building a bike.
Landgolier, if the BB cups ARE crooked, is there a way to tell with a level or something when the BB is installed?
Landgolier, if the BB cups ARE crooked, is there a way to tell with a level or something when the BB is installed?
__________________
Cycle tracks will abound in Utopia.
~H.G. Wells
Cycle tracks will abound in Utopia.
~H.G. Wells
#7
rider
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Cowtown, AB, Canada
Posts: 48
Bikes: Wilier Evasion Veloce (04), Kona Pahoehoe (01), Rocky Mountain Hammer (94), Rocky Mountain Sherpa (ancient)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
As a first easy test I would pull off the crank arms,
wipe down the spindle and inside the arms,
re-grease,
& put cranks back on.
This worked for me last summer when my cranks/bb were creaking after a rainy spring of commuting. Same thing, they only creaked when I applied force and not when I would just spin the cranks.
It is a whole lot faster & easier than opening the bb and repacking.
wipe down the spindle and inside the arms,
re-grease,
& put cranks back on.
This worked for me last summer when my cranks/bb were creaking after a rainy spring of commuting. Same thing, they only creaked when I applied force and not when I would just spin the cranks.
It is a whole lot faster & easier than opening the bb and repacking.
#8
Accident Just Happened
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Nordeast Minneapolis
Posts: 92
Bikes: Bridgestone MB-3, Raleigh fixie, Bridestone MB-1, Hiawatha Super Chief
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
IANAM, but...I've also had this symptom created by loose chainring bolts, a chainring installed the wrong way (such that the chainring bolts couldn't be properly torqued), and a bottom bracket shell that was about to separate from the frame (someone else's bike). Probably not the latter since its a new bike, unless it was very poorly made. But yeah, typically it's the crank-spindle connection or the BB cups. Creaking, in my experience, is usually from an under-tightened or ungreased fastener (some will argue that the crank-spindle connection should not be greased...), but grating is almost certainly an indication of a worn or improperly-adjusted bearing surface. If you can get the creak by just pulling the crank away from the bike, then its probably just a matter of taking off the crank, cleaning it and the spindle, greasing the surface, and getting it back on there tight.
#9
THIS SPACE FOR RENT
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I suppose you could rig something or use calipers or whatever to see if a BB has been faced properly, but the easiest way to tell is to just pull the BB and see if there is still paint on the outside surface that the cups run up against. If there is, it wasn't faced; most new bikes aren't, especially in the under $2k class. If it is bare metal, it probably was, but you'd need a facing tool to check it.
This isn't the most likely problem (chainring/crank bolts are), but it's worth checking for, and if you like your bike it's worth having done.
This isn't the most likely problem (chainring/crank bolts are), but it's worth checking for, and if you like your bike it's worth having done.
#10
52-week commuter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 1,929
Bikes: Redline Conquest, Cannonday, Specialized, RANS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Before you go ripping the bottom bracket apart, make sure the noise is really coming from there. Often the seat or seatpost will creak with each revolution as your weight shifts, and it sounds like it's coming from the cranks. A quick check is to see if the noise goes away when you stand up to pedal.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Albany, WA
Posts: 7,393
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 321 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
I had a reallllllllly loud creak, also when forcing down on the left pedal. After trying everything suggested on the forum, I finally bought a BB tool and removed it. It turned out to be a crappy BB: The bearing cartridge was not fitting tightly on the spindle, so the inner race would rub against the spindle shoulder. I then tried everything to solve this including the very strongest Loctite, but after some months it would just start up again. I gave up. Sold the bike with creak. Only a new BB would have solved it, but the LBS would not come to the guarantee party.