Sorry for the newbish question, but I really am nervous about screwing this up. Reading other threads it looks like I need to remove the non-drive side first and then pull or tap out the drive side. There's a hex screw on the non-drive side and another round thing with several holes in it surrounding the hex screw. From what I've read the hex screw is what needs to come out, but when I loosen it it stops turning and I don't want to force things out of fear of stripping something. Should I be removing this screw first? Clockwise, counterclockwise? Should I remove the thing with the holes in it first (assume I'd need a special tool for that). Thanks.

You first need to remove the "round thing" with the multiple holes. For that you need a spanner tool (red version) you can get at any bike shop such as Performance. If you try to remove the hex bolt first you will damage the crank. Once it is removed you can unscrew the main bolt with a hex key, then you pull the non-drive crank out as well as the washer. Then, assuming you have a mexa-exo bottom braket, use a rubber mallet to tap the axle and the drive-side crank out.
The whole process is a piece of cake and should only take you about 5-10 minutes.

Glad I didn't try too hard to get that hex screw out. Thanks very much. Much appreciated.

Sorry to resurrect an old topic, but I'm trying to remove my FSA SLK crankset.
Here's what I did so far:
- I already removed the outside black caps.
- Removed the bolts on both side.

Now what? Do I need a crank puller? Or does the crank just slide right out?
Thanks!

If it's FSA, it should fall off on its own.

Nothin?

Nothing yet. Perhaps it's stuck? I'll try again tomorrow.

I am having the same problem. Do I need a crank puller?

You can download the pdf here for details on installation/removal:
https://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.as...layout=product

According to what I see, that's a self-extracting bolt. The "round thing with multiple holes" is part of the self-extracting mechanism, in which case you leave it on the crank arm while you loosen the crank bolt. You may feel a bit of resistance after you begin loosening the bolt. (This is very noticeable with self extracting bolts on square taper bottom brackets). Keep turning -- the whole deal (crank arm with bolt and self-extracting ring) will pull itself right off the end of the BB spindle.

Thanks. I took the round thing and the bolt off. The arm would not budge. I can't wait to get home and try this. Thanks again.

Just make sure to correctly reassemble the bolt assembly (with washer on each side) and fully tighten the self-extracting ring in the crank threads before resuming to remove the crank arm via the self-extracting bolt. You want the ring to have the maximum number of threads engaged during the removal to prevent the risk of damaging the threads on the crank arm.

Thanks for the tips. It came right off.